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What have you done to your car that other people over look?

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Old 08-16-2010, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I'd have to kill ya if I told you everything I've done. There's lots that I've shared on here over the years but noone's ever going to tell you everything. Just doesn't work that way.
If Jay had not said it, you would have heard the same from me. What makes winners, winners is the edge they hold and beleive me they are not giving that up.

BUT you can look at it this way.

Make the car meet proper Safety Requirements, Given the ET it will be running.

Make as much power as class rules allow with out incurring too much weight penalty as well as keeping the set up as reliable as possible.

Dump as much weight out of the car that the class allows.

Learn to Drive the car.

Record results, Test and Tune it.

That IMO is a solid foundation for a event winning car and driver.
Old 08-16-2010, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet
4.56's is good, get outside of the mold of 4.10's or 3.73's.. hope ya have a tall tire and some rpms though!
haha...I remember everyone telling me many years ago I was nuts when I went with 4.71 gears with 28" slicks...they were fun as hell on the street with GSCs though
Old 08-16-2010, 08:41 AM
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1st gear ratio of a T56 and the weight of the average f body you need steeper gears to get the car moving. 4.71 would be a good h/c gear I'd think as long as you can get thru the traps in 4th.
Old 08-16-2010, 08:46 AM
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I don't race any classes or anything, so I think that is part of the difference. I can see how competitive that would be. For me I race as a challenge, to see how far I can push what I have etc. For the most part I could care less who's in the other lane, I would rather make sure I get a good launch then to hurry for a good reaction time. Some things I'm vey conscious of that I think are common mistakes are: weather, tires and car prep. People wonder why their car wont run a good time when they run in the middle of summer on street tires with a full tank of gas and their kids car seat still in it...
Old 08-16-2010, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet
I don't race any classes or anything, so I think that is part of the difference. I can see how competitive that would be. For me I race as a challenge, to see how far I can push what I have etc. For the most part I could care less who's in the other lane, I would rather make sure I get a good launch then to hurry for a good reaction time. Some things I'm vey conscious of that I think are common mistakes are: weather, tires and car prep. People wonder why their car wont run a good time when they run in the middle of summer on street tires with a full tank of gas and their kids car seat still in it...
Simply cleaning the crap out of your car can help you pick up a tenth!!! Why do people even bother to go with backpacks packed with mountain gear, donkeys, and sherpas in the hatch!?!?! And when I say clean the crap out, that means everything that isn't bolted down, and a few things that are.

If you're gonna take your rear seat and such out, pull up the carpet, and clean out underneath. Or do what I did, and drill out every spot weld you see, and remove unused brackets.
Old 08-16-2010, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
Simply cleaning the crap out of your car can help you pick up a tenth!!! Why do people even bother to go with backpacks packed with mountain gear, donkeys, and sherpas in the hatch!?!?! And when I say clean the crap out, that means everything that isn't bolted down, and a few things that are.

If you're gonna take your rear seat and such out, pull up the carpet, and clean out underneath. Or do what I did, and drill out every spot weld you see, and remove unused brackets.
Exactly my point... At a certain pony I feel like people are just making excuses so they don't seem so slow, "it ran a 12.9 but I had my entire toolbox and an air compressor in the trunk..." etc ever heard something like that before?

What else have you done besides the seat mounts and brackets?
Old 08-16-2010, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet
Exactly my point... At a certain pony I feel like people are just making excuses so they don't seem so slow, "it ran a 12.9 but I had my entire toolbox and an air compressor in the trunk..." etc ever heard something like that before?

What else have you done besides the seat mounts and brackets?
Well if thats the case,....

Weight Reduction:

Rip everything NON-essential in the car
Go on a Personal Diet
Take a cutting wheel and 1" Hole Saw to the interior
Get a 2nd job to pay for LIGHT weight parts which is for chassis and recipricating weight (engine, driveline, wheels)
Old 08-16-2010, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Well if thats the case,....

Weight Reduction:

Rip everything NON-essential in the car
Go on a Personal Diet
Take a cutting wheel and 1" Hole Saw to the interior
Get a 2nd job to pay for LIGHT weight parts which is for chassis and recipricating weight (engine, driveline, wheels)
I'm not saying people have to do weight reduction, I'm saying they shouldn't do weight addition! Although I'm definitely a proponent of weight reduction.
Old 08-16-2010, 01:22 PM
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Well when we get into specifics, then thats where people who know something does not freely give away all this infomation.

I hear you on what your asking.

Much of what dictate is an edge is driving ability and thats one of the most over looked things out there and learning the car as best you can is IMO one of the most important things.
Old 08-16-2010, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnet
Exactly my point... At a certain pony I feel like people are just making excuses so they don't seem so slow, "it ran a 12.9 but I had my entire toolbox and an air compressor in the trunk..." etc ever heard something like that before?

What else have you done besides the seat mounts and brackets?
My car is GUTTED. Every superfluous bracket, mounting point, attachment, etc is gone. Scraped excess seam sealer out. Cut other brackets that needed to stay to the bare minimum. There is nothing behind my dash except necessary wiring. I still need to strip the wiring harnesses down to the bone. I'm pulling the wipers and motor this week, along with the rear bumper support. Everything that can be pulled out, will be. My car isn't a driver.



Old 08-16-2010, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
My car is GUTTED. Every superfluous bracket, mounting point, attachment, etc is gone. Scraped excess seam sealer out. Cut other brackets that needed to stay to the bare minimum. There is nothing behind my dash except necessary wiring. I still need to strip the wiring harnesses down to the bone. I'm pulling the wipers and motor this week, along with the rear bumper support. Everything that can be pulled out, will be. My car isn't a driver.

Any idea what it weighs?
Old 08-16-2010, 03:59 PM
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No clue yet, the main track I race at doesn't have a good scale. I'll try to find out. Should be 31xx?
Old 08-17-2010, 08:09 AM
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Another good trick is learning what you can live with out, giving up those creature comforts such as leather seats, t tops, A/C, and even heat and before I forget, the RADIO!

I myself have a hard time living without some things and the next time JL gets near my engine bay he vows to "Buck Knife" my A/C belt off and rip the radio out and leave a gapping hole.....
Old 08-17-2010, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Another good trick is learning what you can live with out, giving up those creature comforts such as leather seats, t tops, A/C, and even heat and before I forget, the RADIO!

I myself have a hard time living without some things and the next time JL gets near my engine bay he vows to "Buck Knife" my A/C belt off and rip the radio out and leave a gapping hole.....
Yea for sure, I'm planning on ditching some of this for the track atleast, but until my car is race only its gonna have ac. Its not an option in FL. I would ditch the heat if I could separate it though..
Old 08-17-2010, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
No clue yet, the main track I race at doesn't have a good scale. I'll try to find out. Should be 31xx?
You would need to have a good amount o stuff out of it if that's true! I wish my car wasn't my DD. It would drop a TON more weight!
Old 08-17-2010, 09:08 AM
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Lol, did ya miss the pictures? I took some more last night of the swiss cheese looking floor pan, but was way too tired to upload them. I'll get them up tonight after I spend a few more hours working on the car. Another good way to save 50-60lbs, don't run any exhaust. I have open headers purely for the weight savings.
Old 08-17-2010, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
Lol, did ya miss the pictures? I took some more last night of the swiss cheese looking floor pan, but was way too tired to upload them. I'll get them up tonight after I spend a few more hours working on the car. Another good way to save 50-60lbs, don't run any exhaust. I have open headers purely for the weight savings.
I would love to see the pics of the Swiss cheese floor pan! Where are you referring to? And yes I saw the pics, but I assumed you put the dash back on
Old 08-17-2010, 09:27 AM
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Some of the more overlooked weight reduction items would be windshield visors, headliner (not that it weighs much) and then take a look at all of that metal on the roof, lol. If you don't have t-tops you still have the metal for the t-top frame in your car. Look at your antenna mount in the back. It is big for a power antenna. If you don't have a power antenna cut a nice chunk off. Someone said to drill out all of the stupid brackets in back, especially if you have a cage since you can't access the rear seats anyways. Get an older aftermarket radio and swap it in, the stocker is very heavy (gotta have tunes). The 2 rubber hood stops in front are mounted on the corners and can be removed (bracket and all) if you run hood pins. Simply attach a rubber piece under each hood pin to adjust the height.

I just go out to the car with a cardboard box and start filling it with junk metal. After an hour or so, I can get 10-15lbs into it. Next step is lexan rear hatch so I can go to town on the roof support. I don't want to do anything right now to weaken the rigidity since the hatch is pretty heavy right now. I figure I can get a good 15-20lbs of metal out combined with the lexan hatch which saves 28lbs, not bad for $450.
Old 08-17-2010, 09:30 AM
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FWIW I run true duals and so does my friend Chris. We both ordered mufflers at the same time. He went with Flowmasters and I went with Magnaflows. Each of his mufflers weigh 9lbs while mine weighed like 14 or something like that, lol. I can't remember the specifics but his total was at least 10lbs lighter than mine. I'm guessing that Borla bullets would be even lighter.
Old 08-17-2010, 10:17 AM
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I run the Mark Williams titanium wheel studs and aluminum lugnuts, aluminum and titanium bolts wherever i can, no tubes in slicks, clean up wiring under dash cut away anything u are not using. Im glad im a machinist so i can make lighter brackets wherever i can lol. Just a few things ive done


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