UMI upper control arms
UMI upper control arms I'm about to pull the trigger in a UMI k-member and lower A-arms and strange shocks. I was considering doing the uppers too, might as well do new upper ***** joints while I'm in there.
But I'm thinking upper a-arms aren't really worth it for just a street/strip car that doesn't need more than a stock alignment correct?
That cash could probably be spent better elsewhere right?
But I'm thinking upper a-arms aren't really worth it for just a street/strip car that doesn't need more than a stock alignment correct?
That cash could probably be spent better elsewhere right?
If your trying to shave weight, its not going to help but where there is strength, there is rigidity that you gain with the upper a arm. As we as less bind in most cases compared to a stock upper a arm. I had installed my QA1's back in the Spring and I forgot how tough it can be to move that upper a arm around.
Depends on what kind of driving you do will dictate what it's "worth". They are so cheap I would do them and not care.
Depends on what kind of driving you do will dictate what it's "worth". They are so cheap I would do them and not care.
If your trying to shave weight, its not going to help but where there is strength, there is rigidity that you gain with the upper a arm. As we as less bind in most cases compared to a stock upper a arm. I had installed my QA1's back in the Spring and I forgot how tough it can be to move that upper a arm around.
Depends on what kind of driving you do will dictate what it's "worth". They are so cheap I would do them and not care.
Depends on what kind of driving you do will dictate what it's "worth". They are so cheap I would do them and not care.
So no need for adjustables? I'll gain the strength and mobility without the rod-ends? Why would I need adjustables for a street and strip car.
The kind of driving I plan to do is weekend tooling around town in good weather with wheels up launches at the strip.
I want good short times and for the front suspension to work and transfer weight.
I was think non adj. stuff. IF I was road racing or Auto-X the car then It would make sense to have as much adjustibility as possible. 350 is a tad much if your cruising and going to the occasion track day.
Have some people do this on the cheap, what they would do is remove the stock one, weld some plate on the bottom side to box it up a little and put in Poly bushings, paint and be done with it.
Upper A Arms I associate it with a Strut Tower brace, it defintly helps with street driving when you dont have things to stiffen up the chassis. BUT when you drag race, it does nothing, and its extra weight so to take it off everytime I go to the track would get annoying.
Have some people do this on the cheap, what they would do is remove the stock one, weld some plate on the bottom side to box it up a little and put in Poly bushings, paint and be done with it.
Upper A Arms I associate it with a Strut Tower brace, it defintly helps with street driving when you dont have things to stiffen up the chassis. BUT when you drag race, it does nothing, and its extra weight so to take it off everytime I go to the track would get annoying.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=172
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_137_103
Not bad but I guess it depends if you need Ball Joints or Want new ball joints.
IMO the Poly end stuff is just fine for what your doing. The only thing Rod end on my car is the drag bar from UMI.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...Path=7_137_103
Not bad but I guess it depends if you need Ball Joints or Want new ball joints.
IMO the Poly end stuff is just fine for what your doing. The only thing Rod end on my car is the drag bar from UMI.
Since you will be drag racing the car (Which I assumed since this in the drag race forum) The upper control arms aren't going to do a lot. The one benefit of the adjustable upper A-Arms is the rod ends, the allow the suspension to move more freely. Anytime you can add less friction to the car you are doing good. They are not lighter than stock but aren't heavier, they are equal in weight. The chrome moly will cut a 1/4 of a pound out.
They do not have caster built in but can be adjusted to get more caster. They do have improved ball joint angle for lowered cars, something you may not benefit from.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
They do not have caster built in but can be adjusted to get more caster. They do have improved ball joint angle for lowered cars, something you may not benefit from.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
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The car will react a good bit quicker, and more consistant with them.
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I have a pair sitting in the garage, once I get the lowers im putting them in. They cant hurt and will complete the suspension. Maybe its just me but I couldnt stand knowing its the only pc I didnt replace
Since you will be drag racing the car (Which I assumed since this in the drag race forum) The upper control arms aren't going to do a lot. The one benefit of the adjustable upper A-Arms is the rod ends, the allow the suspension to move more freely. Anytime you can add less friction to the car you are doing good. They are not lighter than stock but aren't heavier, they are equal in weight. The chrome moly will cut a 1/4 of a pound out.
They do not have caster built in but can be adjusted to get more caster. They do have improved ball joint angle for lowered cars, something you may not benefit from.
They do not have caster built in but can be adjusted to get more caster. They do have improved ball joint angle for lowered cars, something you may not benefit from.
Because if they're going to considerably help weight transfer off the line then I'll pop for them.
Like I stated earlier and in prev. posts that it basically boils down to what you want to do with the car. IF I was making the all out drag car, you better beleive it would all be Rod end style suspension. Also would all be Chromoly tubing for weight.
You must keep in mind thought for street driving, you get the a typical "Klack, Klack, Klack" of Rod end stuff and the more you have, the more you know it is there. I do not mind the one peice that I do have. But for the good majority of street driving on this car I think I would get annoyed.
Something to think about.
You must keep in mind thought for street driving, you get the a typical "Klack, Klack, Klack" of Rod end stuff and the more you have, the more you know it is there. I do not mind the one peice that I do have. But for the good majority of street driving on this car I think I would get annoyed.
Something to think about.
We have the upper a arms on sale right now if you want to save a little more money on them 
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-specials.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-specials.html
I'm kind of with you on this.
Are you saying that some sufficiently lubricated non-adjustable poly bushings will not make the suspension work more freely than stock rubber and rod ends are the only way to go?
Because if they're going to considerably help weight transfer off the line then I'll pop for them.
Are you saying that some sufficiently lubricated non-adjustable poly bushings will not make the suspension work more freely than stock rubber and rod ends are the only way to go?
Because if they're going to considerably help weight transfer off the line then I'll pop for them.
Well lubricated poly bushings like in our upper A-Arms would work and work better than the factory rubber bushings but not as well as rod ends. The factory bushings actually bind some on up and down movement, the are forced upward and spring back quick. Since the poly bushing upper A-Arms allow grease they would rotate much easier.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
i have umi uppers and lowers with poly non adjustables. well made piece. quiet but ride like ****. they are on my dd so i got used to it. the biggest performance difference i noticed is the insane amount of front end grip they added when cornering. even with the stock springs and decarbon shocks.
I have a set of burkhart arms (their entire front end actually) on the car, 1 inch narrowed upper and lower a arms, 1 inch drop spindles, etc.
The rod ended suspension, when you see how freely it moves compared to stock rubber mounts, will be an obvious difference.
DMH's stuff is excellent, if I had to do it again I'd buy his in a heartbeat. Don't get me wrong there's absolutely nothing wrong with the Burkhart stuff I went with, DMH just wasn't making them when I bought what I have.
The rod ended suspension, when you see how freely it moves compared to stock rubber mounts, will be an obvious difference.
DMH's stuff is excellent, if I had to do it again I'd buy his in a heartbeat. Don't get me wrong there's absolutely nothing wrong with the Burkhart stuff I went with, DMH just wasn't making them when I bought what I have.
good move on getting the upper a-arms too. i'm about to buy their front tubular suspension as well, except i'll be going with non adjustable upper a-arms. if you can, weigh the stuff when you get it and let us know!
Well I got them, not to mention I still have a UMI drag bar to install, their torque arm relocation, an S60 with 4.10's and ABS delete. I also just received some Strange SA's with 300 lbers.
Looking for 11's in 7-8k DA.
I'll be installing all these parts in one fell swoop in November as basically a full front suspension rebuild and upgrade. I should get back close to the weight the S60 will be adding. I'll post this build up later on when I get to it.
I love UMI