Problem with slick, cord seperation?
Problem with slick, cord seperation? I have a set of M&H 26x11.5-15 Cheater slicks I have about 20 passes on. I just noticed the car was vibrating really bad and thumping on deceleration. I thought it was a U-joint but as I was checking around I noticed the sidewall of one of my slicks has a decent sized bulge in the sidewall. I just bought this set of slicks about 3 months ago and one is already F'd up. Has anyone had this happen, I bought them from Jegs, do you think I can get this warrantied?
Thanks
Thanks
Probably not. Tire warenty doesn't really exist on normal tires. Drag tires have zero waranty I think. Were you running tubes? If not that along with hitting a curb or something is probably why you have a buldge. You have pics?
No tubes, alot of people run without tubes. I usually swap tires / rims when I get to the track. I've never hit any curbs with them, I felt something was weird with the car when I was making a pass down the track. The bulge is on the corner / sidewall of the tire. I should have taken pics but I let the air out of the tire and was going to dismount it. Pretty lame if a $200 racing tire can't take a few launches. I will have to call Jegs or M&H and see what they can do.
No tubes, alot of people run without tubes. I usually swap tires / rims when I get to the track. I've never hit any curbs with them, I felt something was weird with the car when I was making a pass down the track. The bulge is on the corner / sidewall of the tire. I should have taken pics but I let the air out of the tire and was going to dismount it. Pretty lame if a $200 racing tire can't take a few launches. I will have to call Jegs or M&H and see what they can do.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Might make the call and take an easy going approach to see what they might do. As mentioned, a few things could cause that, but I've never had it happen (I've always run M/T).
Good luck!
Derek
Good luck!
Derek
As much as it sucks that the slick is messed up, I thought I'd really brok something in the rear end. It was a relief that it was just the slick making all that thumping noise on decel. I will give them a call, who do you guy's recommend buying tires from if the roll out is an issue?
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Many people get away with it but truth is I am AMAZED that not many people have tires separate due to not running tubes. It is worth a try but you won't get an adjustment. Like I said it doesn't really happen in passenger tires let alone 0 mile special applications.
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Verdad Gallardo If you call or visit website for the brand of tire manufacturer you're interested in you can ask them for the nearest dealer. It's best if it's a chassis shop or performance shop. They will check roll out before you take delivery and they will make sure the lot #'s are the same etc.
Problem with jegs/Summit is they are so big they will ship from any # of places from around the country and u may get tires from different states even if you just order 1 pair.
Forget about rollout measurements and lot #'s.
I've gotten tires from Jegs and Summit (MT slicks) 3 sets in all, 1 1/2"s off, yes 1 1/2's.
I bought GY once they were 3/4"s off. It's hit and miss.
Problem with jegs/Summit is they are so big they will ship from any # of places from around the country and u may get tires from different states even if you just order 1 pair.
Forget about rollout measurements and lot #'s.
I've gotten tires from Jegs and Summit (MT slicks) 3 sets in all, 1 1/2"s off, yes 1 1/2's.
I bought GY once they were 3/4"s off. It's hit and miss.
With a tube if you slip the tire on the rim at all you're screwed. Here in Washington State it is illegal to run beadlocks on the street. I bought these tires because they are a DOT legal tire, so what does a guy do? I aired the tire back up and took some pics
I know allot of guys run no tubes without problems but I do tires for a living and run tubes. I was considering taking them out but not any more. Honestly you have to make the decision to run tubes or no tubes next time. Maybe we should all make the suggestion to make all slicks tubeless. No reason for a tube type tire in 2010.
Honestly I've been around drag racing for a while but have never had my own car to run. If someone would have told me that this type of problem can happen from not running tubes I would have bought some. My friends 04 GTO that has around a 3900-4000lb raceweight with a 6 speed runs 10's and has cut 1.49 60' times has never had a problem without running tubes. If a 11 second car that cuts 1.6x 60' times needs tubes I will run them.
Like I said idealy they need tubes, a tube type tire doesn't have any part of the tire designed to hold in air. In a tubless tire the only part of the tire designed to hold in air is the inner liner. Obviously most people don't have problems running no tubes but being a tire profetional it scares the hell out of me!
You can always screw the inside bead of your wheels if you want to make sure you don't spin.
You can always screw the inside bead of your wheels if you want to make sure you don't spin.
The GTO he speaks of is mine and I have gone through probably 8 pairs of MT ET Streets on a C4 corvette rim with no problems at all cutting 1.4 60' in my GTO and WS6. I see the tube point too but I would run MT's next time lol
M&H has outstanding customer service from my experience.
i had an issue with one of their drag radials and they warrantied out a brand new pair for me and i just covered shipping
i bought them direct from m&h so you may have to go through jegs first but m&h was really cool with me
good luck
i had an issue with one of their drag radials and they warrantied out a brand new pair for me and i just covered shipping
i bought them direct from m&h so you may have to go through jegs first but m&h was really cool with me
good luck
On a side note, when dealing with Sponsors or places like Jeg's / Summit Racing is that basically they are part slingers and they have a massive catalog in which you can buy from. Sometimes they keep inventory, most times its drop shipped from the manufacture to the buyer and the Slinger is basically a Broker.
Well what sucks is that if you buy from a 3rd part and have a issue, 9 times out of 10, the Broker tells you to call the manufacture with your issue and most times your in a 3 way battle trying to get an issue resolve.
Happened a few times for me. One I recall is buying my headers, got a killer deal from the sponsor but drop shipped from Dynatech and I get 2008 Ford V8 Truck headers.... wtf!? I call the sponsor and told basically they are not responsible and made me do the work, and running around to resolve the issue. Not to pleased with that.
Ultimately issue was resolved so IMO if you contact the selling broker and you get no where, contact the manufacture to see if you warrentee due to defect. IF your told to pound sand, I would not be suprised if you bought from a 3rd party and you MIGHT have a chance if bought directly.
Just my exp. Hope it helps.
Well what sucks is that if you buy from a 3rd part and have a issue, 9 times out of 10, the Broker tells you to call the manufacture with your issue and most times your in a 3 way battle trying to get an issue resolve.
Happened a few times for me. One I recall is buying my headers, got a killer deal from the sponsor but drop shipped from Dynatech and I get 2008 Ford V8 Truck headers.... wtf!? I call the sponsor and told basically they are not responsible and made me do the work, and running around to resolve the issue. Not to pleased with that.
Ultimately issue was resolved so IMO if you contact the selling broker and you get no where, contact the manufacture to see if you warrentee due to defect. IF your told to pound sand, I would not be suprised if you bought from a 3rd party and you MIGHT have a chance if bought directly.
Just my exp. Hope it helps.
I would call M&H directly, Jeg's probably won't be able to help you.
That being said I've run as fast as 9.5x with no tubes in the tires, and I have absolutely NO intention of ever runnnig them.
I am switching to a beadlock wheel, sure theyr'e illegal for street use but honestly I think if I were dumb enough at this point to try to drive the car that would be the last thing they would bother me about
That being said, I see at least one truck/jeep a week in CT with beadlock wheels on it, or at least what look like them. If they're illegal, noone's bothering anyone about that on this side of the country.
That being said I've run as fast as 9.5x with no tubes in the tires, and I have absolutely NO intention of ever runnnig them.
I am switching to a beadlock wheel, sure theyr'e illegal for street use but honestly I think if I were dumb enough at this point to try to drive the car that would be the last thing they would bother me about
That being said, I see at least one truck/jeep a week in CT with beadlock wheels on it, or at least what look like them. If they're illegal, noone's bothering anyone about that on this side of the country.
To update Jegs got me in contact with Coker tires, who must own M&H? They seem to have great customer service and want to arrange a fed ex pickup of the defective slick to analyze it. I was told they will evaluate the slick to determine my "compensation". From what it sounds like they will make me a killer deal on a slick, maybe at cost or something.
