Battery Relo Wiring question
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Alrite let me start by saying tthis is the first time ive ever delt with anything of this sorts.
i got my burkhart battery relocation kit today, comes with everything but instructions, and im sure its just common sense type stuff but i havent the slightest on how to get it to work.
All the wiring diagrams ive found say something about running the + wire to the battery and then a fused wire to the alternator (borh from the same side of the kill switch.
there isnt a fuse or anything included
also there are extrenal battery charging posts, how do i wire those in?
please help haha
i got my burkhart battery relocation kit today, comes with everything but instructions, and im sure its just common sense type stuff but i havent the slightest on how to get it to work.
All the wiring diagrams ive found say something about running the + wire to the battery and then a fused wire to the alternator (borh from the same side of the kill switch.
there isnt a fuse or anything included
also there are extrenal battery charging posts, how do i wire those in?
please help haha
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External posts are usually for all out race cars. If you car see's any street duty I wouldn't put them on. You can pick up a fuse at Radio Shack. I went with a 150amp fuse. Put it as close to the battery as possible.
But to keep it simple:
Battery negative- ground to car
Battery positive- one side of kill switch
Alternator wire- same side of kill switch as battery positive (fuse goes on this wire)
Wire coming from positive wire from dist box- opposite side of kill switch from + wire
Negative wire in engine bay- ground to car.
-Mark
But to keep it simple:
Battery negative- ground to car
Battery positive- one side of kill switch
Alternator wire- same side of kill switch as battery positive (fuse goes on this wire)
Wire coming from positive wire from dist box- opposite side of kill switch from + wire
Negative wire in engine bay- ground to car.
-Mark
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Okay Im seeing if this will work.
- Take the positive from the battery, connect the 3 wires to the long wire that runs to the back
- take said long wire and go to one side of switch
-take other side of switch and go to the battery
- ground the battery
- take stock negative battery/terminal and make wire that goes front motor mount to stock ground, basically just eliminating the battery connection thing.
- put 150-200A fuse before switch in long hot wire
the few people ive talked to said this would work... idk if it will, but as it sits right now if someone says it should i think i may try it
- Take the positive from the battery, connect the 3 wires to the long wire that runs to the back
- take said long wire and go to one side of switch
-take other side of switch and go to the battery
- ground the battery
- take stock negative battery/terminal and make wire that goes front motor mount to stock ground, basically just eliminating the battery connection thing.
- put 150-200A fuse before switch in long hot wire
the few people ive talked to said this would work... idk if it will, but as it sits right now if someone says it should i think i may try it
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Okay Im seeing if this will work.
- Take the positive from the battery, connect the 3 wires to the long wire that runs to the back
- take said long wire and go to one side of switch
-take other side of switch and go to the battery
- ground the battery
- take stock negative battery/terminal and make wire that goes front motor mount to stock ground, basically just eliminating the battery connection thing.
- put 150-200A fuse before switch in long hot wire
the few people ive talked to said this would work... idk if it will, but as it sits right now if someone says it should i think i may try it
- Take the positive from the battery, connect the 3 wires to the long wire that runs to the back
- take said long wire and go to one side of switch
-take other side of switch and go to the battery
- ground the battery
- take stock negative battery/terminal and make wire that goes front motor mount to stock ground, basically just eliminating the battery connection thing.
- put 150-200A fuse before switch in long hot wire
the few people ive talked to said this would work... idk if it will, but as it sits right now if someone says it should i think i may try it
Here is a great diagram. I used the same setup on my mustang. I have never failed tech with it.
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/drag-racing-tech/182001d1243624052-batt-relocate-wiring-diagram-user8537_pic12658_1233334884.jpg)
-Mark
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Thats the diagram i had seen before, the thing that confused me was the wire that goes from the switch to the alternator and the deleted stock wire.
As long as i can by pass that whoe run more wires and the fuse goes in the first wire that runs from the front to back of the car and put the fuse as close to the battery as possible Ill be in business!
As long as i can by pass that whoe run more wires and the fuse goes in the first wire that runs from the front to back of the car and put the fuse as close to the battery as possible Ill be in business!
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so according to this diagram, i guess the stock wiring can be left as it is in there but only delete the wire from alternator to the positive junction box; and then just add a fused cable from alternator to the kill switch. right ?
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If you don't delete the wire from the alt to the junction box when you throw the switch the car will still keep running.
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Figured out that one the hard way lol.
Okay so we got it all working, and its a little more mickey moused than intended, but not as bad as it might seem.
Heres how it is.
- stock battery terminal red wires to one wire that runs to a fuse to the on side of the switch
- stock battery terminal black wire to long wire to off side of the switch
- positive battery post to fuse to off side of the switch.
Currently i have to fuses, one on the off and on side of the switch, but i do not have a fuse in the alternator wire. Do I need one with my other two fuses in there?
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is it nessesary to run a fuse in the switch to alt. cable? what could go wrong if there was no fuse?
correct me if im wrong, but i think the fuse is only required for those who run audio amplifires and big speakers, but for a race car i really dont think its nessesary!
ive read afew threads bout some who followed this diagram (see pic) without any issues
correct me if im wrong, but i think the fuse is only required for those who run audio amplifires and big speakers, but for a race car i really dont think its nessesary!
ive read afew threads bout some who followed this diagram (see pic) without any issues
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When a battery starts to go dead you may get a spike of amps and if that happens it could return to the alternator via the cable that the + battery cable is connected to and possibly fry it. Thats where a fuse would pop before your alternator does. This is what I was told.
#14
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When a battery starts to go dead you may get a spike of amps and if that happens it could return to the alternator via the cable that the + battery cable is connected to and possibly fry it. Thats where a fuse would pop before your alternator does. This is what I was told.
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i went to Radio Shack lookin for a fuse and the biggest fuse they had was a 60-amp 32v (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102777)
will this be enough?
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if your carb make sure you got you fuel pump either set up on a oil pressure switch or tied in to the kill switch..you dont want them to smack the kill switch and the fuel pump is still on and pushing fuel..seen a couple cars burn like that same with your n2o fuel pump if your spraying.
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so i just finished relocating my battery to the back, fused and all looked good. fired it up and there is a problem
,,,voltage runs very low its almost on 12v, im not sure but i was thinking maybe i have a bad ground or something
pic below shows where i got my ground at ! what do u guys think?
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