need some help with 60 ft times!
#1
On The Tree
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need some help with 60 ft times!
i just took my TA to the track yesturday for the second time, didnt think i did too bad but i know there is ALOT to gain with practice. my problem i beleive is my launching and getting my 60 foot times down. ive heard that with the Nitto Drag radials, a nice big burnout will help out. went 13.61 @ 106
whats the best way to launch an M6 car with Nitto DR's???
only mods on the car are longtubes and drag radials fyi
time slip as follows:
R/T .515
60' 2.295
330 6.043
1/8 8.993
MPH 83.12
1000 11.504
1/4 13.617
MPH 106.88
any advise would be great! thanks
-Andrew
whats the best way to launch an M6 car with Nitto DR's???
only mods on the car are longtubes and drag radials fyi
time slip as follows:
R/T .515
60' 2.295
330 6.043
1/8 8.993
MPH 83.12
1000 11.504
1/4 13.617
MPH 106.88
any advise would be great! thanks
-Andrew
#2
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Buy a line lock.
Understand that in the end, if your not letting it fly off the limiter, your not going to get the best out of it. Which involves a whole nother coveration of what it cost and what you need to do.
BUT keeping it in the spirit of the O/P....
Max PSI in the front tires.
Max PSI in the rear that allow a good hook.
Burnout using line lock.
Raise RPM, and find a good balance of a bog/spin and most time you need to slip the clutch.
Understand that you can get this # down, also track prep factors in too. In the end if you slip the clutch regularly, your going to have to replace it or if that does not fail the rear will start to go if you hammer it enough.
So dont worry about chasing a #, practice and go have fun.
Understand that in the end, if your not letting it fly off the limiter, your not going to get the best out of it. Which involves a whole nother coveration of what it cost and what you need to do.
BUT keeping it in the spirit of the O/P....
Max PSI in the front tires.
Max PSI in the rear that allow a good hook.
Burnout using line lock.
Raise RPM, and find a good balance of a bog/spin and most time you need to slip the clutch.
Understand that you can get this # down, also track prep factors in too. In the end if you slip the clutch regularly, your going to have to replace it or if that does not fail the rear will start to go if you hammer it enough.
So dont worry about chasing a #, practice and go have fun.
#5
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If you want the rear to live and still cut decent times you have to abuse the hell out of the clutch. I was able to go 1.88-89 pretty consistently with Nittos and the stock clutch. Granted the clutch only lasted about a year of racing before it was done.
#6
LCA & relocate bracket
Nitto Drags (19 to 23psi) 2 tests
Front tires (33psi)
Always 93 octane
Tune (hp tunner or efi live)
if you have oxygen sensors with over 4 years of use, install new to get a better air-gas mixture
Nitto Drags (19 to 23psi) 2 tests
Front tires (33psi)
Always 93 octane
Tune (hp tunner or efi live)
if you have oxygen sensors with over 4 years of use, install new to get a better air-gas mixture
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#8
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if the rear goes then a 12 bolt goes in!
thanks guys, i guess the clutch would be a cheaper replacement parrt than the rear considering i do all my work on my own.
and as far as the 'nittos suck'... well there is nothing sucky about FREE drag radials!! haha
one of my good friends does tuning and i just need him to come over one day and do it.
buzz.. what RPMs were you launching at?
thanks guys, i guess the clutch would be a cheaper replacement parrt than the rear considering i do all my work on my own.
and as far as the 'nittos suck'... well there is nothing sucky about FREE drag radials!! haha
one of my good friends does tuning and i just need him to come over one day and do it.
buzz.. what RPMs were you launching at?