ok what do you guy's suggest are the best mods to help a street car hook at the track? current mods are eibach prokit, bilsteins and UMI LCA's. i'm thinking relocation brackets and subframe connectors, i want to do sway bars also but thats because i love driving in the twisties. let me know guys!

john

 

Tires. Relocation brackets. Torque arm.

 

If your car is an auto, thats your only saving grace. You cannot have your cake and eat it, there is always compromise.

 

your suspension setup sucks for drag racing in my opinion, but a good drag radial will help.

 

for autoX it's perfect but i guess i can't have the best of both worlds huh lol something better than a nitto 555, when i had those i still spun the car is a DD and will always be a street car, never strictly race . . . i live in cali so that explains why

 

Two best things stock(or drag friendly) springs, some et streets or the like. Might not dead hook on the street but it will do much better then it does now.

 

Like the other guys have said, it's very hard to obtain a suspension that will work for both. The more power you make, the harder it will be to keep that happy medium.

However, a set of subframes will help in both applications. As will lca relocation brackets as you've lowered your car. I would think a set of strange DA shocks for the rear would help both styles of racing as well. Poly bushings and mounts would do the same, as would an aftermarket tq arm relocated off the trans to the trans crossmember. Stay with the long style tq arm for your application.

Lastly (and probably most importantly), if you can afford a second set of rims and tires for the dragway, go that route. If you're having trouble hooking at the dragway, go with a slightly larger cheater slick/radial - both in width and height. Don't worry if other people are telling you you don't need a 10.5" wide 27" tall tire etc etc - your car isnt set up for the strip, a tire will help make up for it

 

and i forgot to say i have poly bushings all the way around lol i hooked better on the eagle F1's that were on my 10 spokes (had 4000 miles on em) than i ever did on the nitto's i put on after my bridgestone potenza's on my zo6 rims hook as good as my eagle's did but i'd still like to be close to if not at 12.99 with a stock stall. the right combo of things will make that happen.

so for sub-frames, is it the boxed ones that are better or is it tubular? and i'm leaning towards welding em in. and whats the story on the 3 point subframe?

 

Nittos are a very finicky radial. This is just my opinion, but based on the fact that your suspension is not set up for the dragway, I think an ET Street (not radial) is the way you need to go.

As far as subframes go, again I am no expert. But, the boxed subframes are stronger, heavier, and may cost you some ground clearance, can be used as jack points. Tubular not as strong, lighter, and usually tucks under the car better. Pretty much everybody will suggest you get them welded in.

the 3 point ties the frame together better and utilizes the tunnel brace to do so. If you are running a stock tunnel brace, the 3 point will be less beneficial. The 3 points are also added strength in the tunnel brace area when running a short torque arm. Are they worth it for your app? I don't think so, but they wont hurt it either. Keep your exhaust set up (present or future) if you are thinking about going with a 3 point design as well