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weight reduction

Old Oct 17, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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alright guys i need alittle help, so far ive done the pa k member, gutted seats,ac and heat, and ditch the spare. i plan on buying new a-arms, pin-on hood,and drag wheels, my goal is to get the car down to 3100 lbs can anyone give me any advise. I know alot of this is kept secret but if you guys could give me any advise that'd help out alot
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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3100 with you in it or out?
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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without me in it so around 3300 with me if not a little lighter
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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ive done it
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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i took alot out of mine both front and back bumpers and supports,back seats and seat belts,ac,both door bars,pass airbag and sensors,radio all speakers,sparetire/jack,changed the hood to the harwood ramair,power antinna ive got full sphon tubular suspension.it depends on whitch way u wanna go my car is still a street car so i havnt takin everything off there is still alot to take off but i cant cuz of the state inspection
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:34 AM
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I'm at 3100 and still have a car around me....... I call it strategic lightening ingenuity... Still have all the sound deadening and my bumpers, all creature comforts too.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I'm at 3100 and still have a car around me....... I call it strategic lightening ingenuity... Still have all the sound deadening and my bumpers, all creature comforts too.
How in the crap did you do that?
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:59 AM
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I've crossed the scales at 3350 w/me in the car and a 1/2! tank of gas. . . still had A/C when I left too. . . stock k-member, no carpet or interior to speak of, but with what you've listed, unless you're a fat-***, you should be there.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DNOBLE1
How in the crap did you do that?
Constantly looking for things not needed and lighting existing parts. It does'nt hurt that my car is a hard top. Alot of it has been little bits here and there. 40# off the crankshaft, 26 off with my own custom exhuast. near 40# with my 18's ...26# more with my dr and skinnies, 28 out of the k-member I did, 7 out of front bumper, 10 out of rear bumper, jack+spare, air pump, 5# out trans crossmember, alum rear control arms...and allot of lighting holes that I done a very nice job on...on bolt on parts only. Lots of little bits add up. I have taken a little more than 300#'s out total while still having a car that's comfortable to drive anywhere in the country.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Constantly looking for things not needed and lighting existing parts. It does'nt hurt that my car is a hard top. Alot of it has been little bits here and there. 40# off the crankshaft, 26 off with my own custom exhuast. near 40# with my 18's ...26# more with my dr and skinnies, 28 out of the k-member I did, 7 out of front bumper, 10 out of rear bumper, jack+spare, air pump, 5# out trans crossmember, alum rear control arms...and allot of lighting holes that I done a very nice job on...on bolt on parts only. Lots of little bits add up. I have taken a little more than 300#'s out total while still having a car that's comfortable to drive anywhere in the country.
GOOD JOB!

I've still got all comforts but weigh 3500 lbs last time I scaled it. Didn't know you could get 40lbs outa the crank. Dang!
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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not really out of the crank..off of it. My clutck pp and flywheel weigh 17#'s. the underdrive pulley is about 5# less....Rotating weight makes a big difference. This thing rev's faster than I've ever heard a ls rev.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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theres the lightweight carpet, and cutting any unnecessary brackets off,big difference with racing steering wheels, rear seats weigh a good bit, all tubular suspension,no front sway bar, airbags, light weight battery?, sound deadening, drag racing seats and rims, if you dont need music radio and speakers, i race my car with my seat and seat belt and carpet no other interior
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 06:17 AM
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My formula tipped the scales at 3440 without me.. I have Umi K-member and lower control arms, no rear seat, no powersteering or ac, no windshield washer,

but I do have a LQ block, and a Th350, with a Moser 12, so I guess that is where it is coming from.. Btw this was on my ZR1 wheels, 17x11 rear, 17x10 fronts..

I am looking forward to some race wheels, and maybe taking alittle more out of the car, to save some weight..

I also have no front bumper support.. but its not a DD either..
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 06:21 AM
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You guys don't even want to hear that I"m aiming for 2800 with an iron block motor LOL.

I think with a FI setup on it, the car will end up around 2900 to 2950 tops, and that's with most likly a 25.5 cage in it.

All depends what you're willing to live with. I'd never do 2/3 of what I've done for a street car.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 06:36 AM
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I do hate you!!! haha.. I am kinda stumped with why my car is so fat!!! formulas are light, but it is a t-top, it does have Kenny brown sub frame connecters.. but I thought I would of lost weight with the th350... idk... guess its time to start lookin at what else I am going to take out of it..

already got rid of the front sway, and some other small stuff... we will see...
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
not really out of the crank..off of it. My clutck pp and flywheel weigh 17#'s. the underdrive pulley is about 5# less....Rotating weight makes a big difference. This thing rev's faster than I've ever heard a ls rev.
I didn't know you could get clutch, pp and flywheel that light though. I bet it does rev quick!
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DNOBLE1
I didn't know you could get clutch, pp and flywheel that light though. I bet it does rev quick!
It's a tilton racing 5.5 triple disc. I worked on road race cars for 17yrs and that's the clutch we used. I made it fit mine...all bolt on really. I though about putting together a kit but it would be pretty expensive and guys on here are weird...they'll pay $1000 + for a junky replace type clutch but not $2000 for a fully rebuildable race proven one that will actually make your car faster. I probably have the only f-bod in the coutry with this set-up thet's daily driven. There is no such thing as a sticky or non-realiseing clutch any more.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
It's a tilton racing 5.5 triple disc. I worked on road race cars for 17yrs and that's the clutch we used. I made it fit mine...all bolt on really. I though about putting together a kit but it would be pretty expensive and guys on here are weird...they'll pay $1000 + for a junky replace type clutch but not $2000 for a fully rebuildable race proven one that will actually make your car faster. I probably have the only f-bod in the coutry with this set-up thet's daily driven. There is no such thing as a sticky or non-realiseing clutch any more.
You outta offer it up and see what kind of response you get. You might get surprised. Gotta be fast reving!
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 09:43 AM
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^You should start off by showing a video of the revs because I wanna hear it. Theres 2 things in this world that make me tingle. A super fast revving engine, and a hard hitting cam.
Well, and the guitar solo from Cemetary Gates.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by moderate Z28
^You should start off by showing a video of the revs because I wanna hear it. Theres 2 things in this world that make me tingle. A super fast revving engine, and a hard hitting cam.
Well, and the guitar solo from Cemetary Gates.
Here's a vid of it revving
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF5ChybeHvw
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