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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 09:49 PM
  #21  
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Inner fender metal and back seats and all the brackets are a decent little chunk. Skim through all of studderin's thread,most informative weight reduction thread I've seen. You can get a lot of weight from hvac delete and keep the defrost like he did.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 06:06 PM
  #22  
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I have already done quite a bit. Here are a couple of pictures of the car. Last time I weighed the car was right before I put the cage in, and it weighed 3140. Now it is probably around 3210-ish. Not too bad I guess for a iron block motor, th400, 9 inch, front mount turbo, all mild steel piping, and a 10pt mild steel cage.
Attached Thumbnails Deleting trunk well-wp_000656.jpg   Deleting trunk well-wp_000679.jpg   Deleting trunk well-20140420_130903.jpg   Deleting trunk well-1398683_696385607063328_8308669318517506842_o.jpg   Deleting trunk well-20141203_125020.jpg  

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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #23  
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93camaro zzz/ any one else that has done a ttop tub delete how much dose the new pannel flex?
Im in the middle of deleting all 3 tubs in the back and im putting the batt. where the ttops go.
Im using 22 gauge steel.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 10:09 PM
  #25  
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Subhumanz: that looks really good man!

FirstgenFbody: When I was buying the material, 22ga seemed to flimsy for me, and 20ga felt a lot better. But also it is going to depend if you put anything underneath it. I guess you can't tell by the picture, but I welded in a support rod underneath and exactly in the middle that runs forward and backwards. I felt it would probably be too flimsy w/o it. And I also plan in the future to probably put a 10gal fuel cell on top of it.

Also for what it's worth, I don't consider myself an expert welder, but also I don't consider myself an amatuer. But that piece was extremely difficult to weld in. First you have to try to take off as much paint and sealer as you can to get a good weld. So that is a couple of hours right there. Then, the body of our cars are so thin, I had my MIG welder on the lowest setting (A on an A-E) and it was still burning holes in things. Was very hard to make it look pretty. Which, in my opinion mine does not. lol
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 08:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jeffro_93
door bars and trim the 6" lip under the windshield the "cowel" section?

Any write ups on this?
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 11:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 93camaro_zzz
When I was buying the material, 22ga seemed to flimsy for me, and 20ga felt a lot better. But also it is going to depend if you put anything underneath it. I guess you can't tell by the picture, but I welded in a support rod underneath and exactly in the middle that runs forward and backwards. I felt it would probably be too flimsy w/o it. And I also plan in the future to probably put a 10gal fuel cell on top of it.
thanks for the response. The 22 is a little thin but i wanted to get the thickness as close to nhra minimum thickness (.024 IIRC) as possable to keep the weight down. I was debating on getting a bead roller or just putting in a support. i gess ill get the roller then put is supports as needed prob. in aluminum tho.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 02:09 PM
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Here is a look at how the support is in mine which is done in aluminum.

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