PC680 battery enough?
11-06-2010, 01:39 PM
#22
Honestly if you're putting the battery in the back, it needs to be in a sealed box, that bmr bracket isn't exactly legal (for track use) unless you have a bulkhead in the back
If you're just playing on the street, it's fine, and a easy way to put it back there.
Honestly, I'd run something that's full sized, with the battery in the back. That 12+ foor run of welding cable or whatever you're using to get the power back up front, is alot of load.
Make sure you put the push/pull switch in too.
If you're just playing on the street, it's fine, and a easy way to put it back there.
Honestly, I'd run something that's full sized, with the battery in the back. That 12+ foor run of welding cable or whatever you're using to get the power back up front, is alot of load.
Make sure you put the push/pull switch in too.
11-06-2010, 03:38 PM
#24
Yes those are a full size battery. The thing I don't like about the optima battery, is that once it goes dead, much like a pc680 it never really recovers 100%, whereas a regular lead-acid battery will.
I ran a duralast gold in my sled and never had a problem with it starting/having enough power to run the car, I even lost the alt belt at the track once (I had just a small 4 rib belt running from teh crank to alt) and still had no problems making one more run at the end of the day, and I was driving the car to the line and back too.
I had the battery in the car sideways too, something alot of people said was a bad idea because when you leave the plates in the battery can move and short out... never had that problem either. Thing worked great, and if I wasn't going 16 volt I'd put it back in the car with no concerns when the car's back together.
I ran a duralast gold in my sled and never had a problem with it starting/having enough power to run the car, I even lost the alt belt at the track once (I had just a small 4 rib belt running from teh crank to alt) and still had no problems making one more run at the end of the day, and I was driving the car to the line and back too.
I had the battery in the car sideways too, something alot of people said was a bad idea because when you leave the plates in the battery can move and short out... never had that problem either. Thing worked great, and if I wasn't going 16 volt I'd put it back in the car with no concerns when the car's back together.
11-06-2010, 04:24 PM
#25
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Not a big fan of the PC680 we use to run one but went back to a stock style battery. the pc680 becomes more of a pain in the *** over time i will find the 15lbs else were.
11-08-2010, 05:13 PM
#32
Put one in my 91 race vega. Don't street drive the car. It kept going dead but didnt' have a tender on it. I charged it a few times now about third time it don't take any charge. Have to try to find the bill and see if can get some warranty on it. I have changed my setup in that car to only work with that battery. Maybe put tender on it next time or keep it in house and only leave it in car when actually racing it.
11-08-2010, 11:25 PM
#33
I mine would need to be jumped after the car sat for 1-2 months in the winter, Or if I parked it outside after just moving it 6-10 hours before in the winter, in under 30deg temps. If you have a good tune and not a carb or some huge cam you have to work at getting the car to start and idle. ya this battery it's not going to be like stock. But if your car starts good after 1-2 ses cranking, and idles by itself cold, without giving it any gas its fine.
