DIY ABS delete kit??
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11 Second Club
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
DIY ABS delete kit?? Does someone have a list of parts needed for the DIY ABS delete kit? Also, where do you guys get the aluminum blocks? (the ones using that style)
check my build thread. I used some adaptor fitting to go from the stock bubble flairs to normal double flairs I have the tools to make, and made new lines. Removed the ABS stuff, ran new lines with a linelock, and preporioning (sp?) valve.
I put the summit one on, took the car to a parking lot with stock front wheels. did some hard breaking with 2 friends watching outside. Car stoped fine, didnt really notice the front or rear locking up 1st. Turned the PP a few turns, didnt notice any change, locked them up a few times just to see, havnt messed with it just drive it.
I got the linelick for free, PP was like 35? and 10-15$ in fitting and lines form the parts store? I did all my front brake lines on the Kmember, and uses some of the stock abs lines with the braided flex on the rearend for the willwoods I have.
I got the linelick for free, PP was like 35? and 10-15$ in fitting and lines form the parts store? I did all my front brake lines on the Kmember, and uses some of the stock abs lines with the braided flex on the rearend for the willwoods I have.
I did a abs delete on my buddys TA, bought 2 T fittings from NAPA and some stock line. Cut all the stock ends off the factory SS lines from the ABS block and put on reg nuts and reflair the ends to screw to the T fitting...done. Cost $20 in parts and no prop valve. He drives like a ******* a lot and not once did he have a problem. No track problems either runnin 9.90s@13x mph
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For the sake of safety, there is no reason why there should not be a Proportioning valve in there. I estimate it probably mattered more with 4 Way Drum cars or Front Disk/Rear Drum cars. As with Calipers the pads are slightly above the disk and when you press in the brake, they will all clamp but the front has bigger disks and bigger pad surface so it tends to take the brunt of the load.
But still for a small cost, I would rather have the adjustibility.
But still for a small cost, I would rather have the adjustibility.
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It's a big deal with front runners on the car. I had mine all effed up after I dropped the motor in and it would lock the fronts up almost instantly if I had to do even a semi aggressive stop.
I did a abs delete on my buddys TA, bought 2 T fittings from NAPA and some stock line. Cut all the stock ends off the factory SS lines from the ABS block and put on reg nuts and reflair the ends to screw to the T fitting...done. Cost $20 in parts and no prop valve. He drives like a ******* a lot and not once did he have a problem. No track problems either runnin 9.90s@13x mph
Ahh yes, that is true, Have 15 x 4 Convo Pros with Metric Tires and with ABS still running, it kicks on semi-aggressive stops. The rear is a 26" tall DR so abs is still functioning. A real good point.
I dunno.. I've had my car setup with no proportioning valve for a while and I never had any of the wheels lock up. Granted I Don't jump on the brakes like an idiot either, but the car stops from 145 with NO problem... I'm not making the first turnoff at the track from that speed... but it will stop fine.
I think it has alot to do with what master you're using. If you have the strange master that is set up for these cars, like Burkhart sells, you don't really need it.
I ran all new lines, used -3 tube nuts and a nice single flare that's easy to do (except at the master there you have to double flare it) and just plumbed the brake lines over on my car completely. I bought a whole kit from quartermax, they had all the fittings, tabe to weld no the body to hold the fittings to the body, etc. I ran the rear lines up on the body too, so if I have to drop the rear out I can pull the calipers, hang them in the wheel well's with a zip tie and not even crack a brake line
Came out good, looks nice and clean, and doing all the lines on the entire car over, wasn't much more then what the abs delete kits go for. Plus now I just have a single line running to the back of the car, which helped save even more weight, and cleaned things up a little more.
I think it has alot to do with what master you're using. If you have the strange master that is set up for these cars, like Burkhart sells, you don't really need it.
I ran all new lines, used -3 tube nuts and a nice single flare that's easy to do (except at the master there you have to double flare it) and just plumbed the brake lines over on my car completely. I bought a whole kit from quartermax, they had all the fittings, tabe to weld no the body to hold the fittings to the body, etc. I ran the rear lines up on the body too, so if I have to drop the rear out I can pull the calipers, hang them in the wheel well's with a zip tie and not even crack a brake line
Came out good, looks nice and clean, and doing all the lines on the entire car over, wasn't much more then what the abs delete kits go for. Plus now I just have a single line running to the back of the car, which helped save even more weight, and cleaned things up a little more.
^ I agree but my feeling is also these cars that delete ABS, what is their curb/race weight. A lot more then most track cars. On the street, as much you can try, you cannot avoid all idiots who do stupid things like cut in front of you or jam on the brakes.
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Tampa, FL
Its not a F-body but I deleted my abs on my street car and I have skinnies upfront. It stops fine. If I do stand on it it may lock up the front. But you get used to it and get a feel on hard you can step on it before they lock.
-Mark
-Mark
Careful with that becuase it's technicially not legal.. it puts the brake line in the path of destruction, should the flywheel/flexplate ever come apart.
I think there's a rule about that, somewhere in the nhra book. I'll have to look and see, there was a reason I didn't do that myself. I did, have the line run along the bottom of the radiator support before I put teh k member in my car, but now that the entire nose is getting cut off I re-routed it along the k member. That, and the K member had some convenient tabs on it that worked out great for installing the -3an fittings in.
I think there's a rule about that, somewhere in the nhra book. I'll have to look and see, there was a reason I didn't do that myself. I did, have the line run along the bottom of the radiator support before I put teh k member in my car, but now that the entire nose is getting cut off I re-routed it along the k member. That, and the K member had some convenient tabs on it that worked out great for installing the -3an fittings in.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
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As mustangbrk02 mentioned, our kits are plug and play. Lines are preformed, OEM fittings and every other fitting is ready to go.
If you like building them yourself, than that is one thing, but if you're doing it to save money...the time and trial and error it will take to get it right in my opinion is not a savings.
The base kits start at 139.99 and include every fitting, wilwood proportioning valve and preformed lines. A wilwood valve alone is ~50.00...you still need all the fittings, mounting kit...and other components to complete the install.
If you like building them yourself, than that is one thing, but if you're doing it to save money...the time and trial and error it will take to get it right in my opinion is not a savings.
The base kits start at 139.99 and include every fitting, wilwood proportioning valve and preformed lines. A wilwood valve alone is ~50.00...you still need all the fittings, mounting kit...and other components to complete the install.