Looks to me like you could get some lift increase with adding 1.6 roller rockers. Just a little added power with some of the other details should help.

 

I'm gonna see what I can do with this cam first.. It has 1.6 roller rockers already.. I have faith in the old girl

 

If I can't get the low 12 then I guess I'll replace this new cam with a newer one lol

 

I don't think your cam is the issue. Try flashing the converter like I told you. You have enough gear back there to get the 60 ft and you have a good setup in those Brodix heads and the cam is a good healthy street cam.

The same camaro I told you in my earlier post now runs 11.83 with a 1.63 60ft with the same 3.42 gears and converter from Coan Racing. We put AFR heads on it with the Holley Stealthram intake and a zz409 cam from TPIS, its a single pattern 226/226 duration cam. Full weight 3rd gen, A/C and all. Driven, not trailered to the track.

 

yeah i believe i can get it done with this cam.. whats the numbers on them heads? im thinking my set ups pretty similar with this one.. how much compression is this motor?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PikeVupD9T4
this is with the tunnel ram intake..it lacked in low end power but picked up in higher rpms.. shouldnt an rpm air-gap out perform this intake with my set up? i dont really think my car has the same power range a tunnel ram has like an rpm air gap would

 

The heads are AFR/TPIS heads. They were 180 AFR's that are no longer made that were put thru TPIS's cnc program and come out at 187cc. The compression is 10.8:1. TPIS no longer sells them since they went to Dart.
Tunnel rams are more designed for bigger cammed motors for high end hp. I would get that tunnel ram off the car regardless. For what you have an RPM air gap would be more suitable anyway. In that vid the launch is horrible, You don't have that "pop" out of the hole. Play with that converter like I told you but for a 3500 that launch looks horrible. You might need a different converter.

My friend's nova looked just like your car going down the track. It ran 11.10-20's but his 60ft looked like crap. It was the converter and gear doing all the work and the motor produced no bottom end grunt due to his combo. He had an 12.3:1 355cu motor with 230 runner heads and the cam was 264/270 at .050 830 cfm carb with a 3800 converter and 4.56 gears on a 26" tall tire. All velocity in the intake tract was gone and in the end didn't have very much torque. We changed program with the same cam and way bigger cubes and better AFR heads. On the 1/4 mile calculator it should run 1.46 60ft and 10.20's. We haven't put it in the car is why I mention calculator.

 

i also have 180 cc heads with 10.5 compression. i have since then took off tunnel ram and put the rpm air gap on and it picked up a little in 60 ft and lacked in the traps to a 12.70 compared to 12.50s

lol let me explain the launch. vacuume is not an option with this cam and my breaks SUCK bad.. it was on my agenda this winter to take out the vacuum brakes and put a different system in..it just rolls forward if i try and stall it up. whats bad about hughes converters that would make it 60 ft bad?

 

So wait, let me get this straight, you picked up 60ft and ran a 12.50 but your mph was slower?

If you want to keep your brakes, there is an electric vacuum pump setup that can pull vacuum on your brake booster since your engine has no vacuum.

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/69A3151A0A0.aspx

Well it might be the way the converter is built. I found your converter in Summit for around 450-550 bucks. The 2 converters we have from coan racing were 750 bucks for the 2800 with the billet front cover and 1150 for the nitrous specific 4000 stall with billet front cover. Pretty much I am saying you get what you pay for. The other good thing is when you buy something from jegs or summit, you are stuck with just that. Our converters have been sent back to coan a few times to be freshened, tweaked, or fixed for little or nothing out of our pocket.

Just to give you an idea, me and a friend of mine both have 4th gen f-bodies. We are within 50-100 lbs of each other, we both have 12 bolt rears with 3.73 gears both 346 stock bottom end ls1's my cam was 230/240 and his was 228/234 we both had ported ls1 heads and ls6 intakes. We went to the same tuner and he put down 392rwhp and I put down 382rwhp and right there should tell you something. The difference was that he had a Yank 4000 converter and I had a 3600 fuddle. He ended up running 11.30 @~120 mph with a 1.43 60ft full weight. I ended up running 11.82 @115 with a 1.71 60 ft. No matter what I tried it wouldn't 60ft any better and the mph sucked. Our setups were similar except for the converters and it showed on the track. There were other guys running 3600 yanks and 60ft better than me. I asked around on here and searched for Fuddle converters and found they were junk. I put it up in the for sale section for free just the buyer would have to pay for shipping and nobody wanted it, that was a big sign right there. Looking at your 60ft it most likely looks like your converter but it could be the tune also. See if you can find another converter that you could borrow to try out to rule it out.

 

My 60 ft was a little slower with tunnel ram and had a faster et while the rpm air gap had a faster 60 ft and a little slower et at the big end.

If I can't find any other solution to it I'm definitely going to look into getting a different converter.. I wonder if it would be cheaper to just have mine rebuilt to a looser stall?

Those are some crazy numbers for just the difference of converters

SSBC is pretty proud of those brake systems lol

 

Did you check your tune when you put the air-gap on? With the tunnel ram having the carb up high and the air-gap putting the carb lower, you might have to check the tune up and timing all over again.

Get up on hughes site and get their number and call them to see if they can loosen it up a bit.

By the way my buddy with the 4000 yank drives his car everywhere. He doesn't trailer it either. Once the car is in overdrive it drives like stock.

 

Yes I checked the tune with both and both air fuel ratios were very similar. I even have downloaded air fuel ratios from racing on the computer. I like my stalls to be loose but every transmission guy I'm the world says that 3500 is pushing it for streetabiliy (I don't agree) hopefully it wont cost an arm and a leg to loosen it, if nothing else my tranny guy does them for 150 bones which is pretty cheap