Photo #1-5: The first 5 photos are of my "Short Belt Mod". Since I'm using an f-body water pump on the engine, I also went with an f-body crank balancer pulley. The water pump was purchased used on ebay, and the pulley was purchased used from Billy Graham's Camaro Salvage.

I initially tried to use the factory truck engine balancer pulley, but it was not spaced correctly for it to line up with the f-body water pump pulley. Therefore, I had to switch to the f-body pulley.

Photo #5: I purchased this Thunder Racing Belt tensioner used on ebay in August 2009. I installed it on the car 08/14/09.

Notes from 10/18/10:

I spaced out the belt tensioner with two red anodized washers left over from the bolt dress-up kit that I used on the 2000 T/A. One washer on each bolt spaced it out the 1/8" difference that I needed to make up in order for the tensioner pulley & crank balancer pulley to line up.

Photo 6-8: The next three photos show how I modified the factory f-body front alternator bracket. With the short belt mod, the top pulley on the front bracket needs to be removed. That leaves the mounting portion for it sticking up like a sore thumb. I took it into work and cut it off with the band saw. Then I ground the remaining part smooth. Some black spray paint finished it off. The very last photo also shows how much of the lower bolt head had to be cut off in order for the serpentine belt to clear it.

I also used a couple of washers on the two alternator bolts to space it out evenly with the crank balancer pulley.

UPDATE: The Alternator will be moved to the driver's-side cylinder head using a bracket from Speedway Motors. This is necessary to give adequate room for the exhaust piping necessary for the upcoming Turbonetics Turbocharger.

 

I just read it all up to this point. You have been on keeping on it man. I hope to see you running it this year..

 

Jeremy, I think we must have both gotten our cars around the same time...I hope to have it running well enough next year to hit a track or two with it

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I found a decent RPO J65 10 bolt w/ 3.73 gears for sale on ls1tech that I picked up for the car in July 2009. It came out of a 2001 Trans Am. I added an LPW Racing Products diff girdle & minimum depth brace kit. I have the brackets welded to the housing for the braces, but haven't yet cut them and welded the rod ends on at this point. UPDATE: February 2012 I purchased a Moser 12 Bolt used from the ls1tech classifieds & drove up to Knox, IN, to pick it up. Once it is installed, the 10 bolt mentioned will either be for sale or taken to the scrap yard.

You will also notice that I had a Speedway Motors rear disc brake conversion kit installed on the housing. It came with LT1-era rear discs, and the voices inside my head told me that they would clear the rear wheels once the brake calipers were installed. As you can see from the last photo showing the housing, I ground & ground on the rear caliper until I didn't feel it was worth the risk.

Since the disc brakes didn't work out, I cut the brackets off that I had welded on & swapped out the drum brakes from the factory rear end. My local AutoZone sold me some of their Chinese-made brake drums & a rebuild kit along with some of their made in Mexico brake pads. Guess I'm keeping it "global" whether I like it or not.

No more "one wheel peel" outta this car!

Update: I did find a proper rear disc-brake kit to install on the car, and did so in the Summer of 2018.

 

More drum brake install pics...

This was my first hands-on experience with drum brakes. Once you get the proper tools, it's not that hard to rebuild. Thankfully, AutoZone also has a low-buck drum brake tool for removing & reinstalling the springs.

Photo #9: Since I removed the emergency brake system from the car, I had two holes on the backing plates for the drum brakes that needed to be covered. If you look closely, you can see the copper-colored nut, washer & bolt that I used to cover the hole.

 

Last of the drum brake install pics...

Front disc brakes (purchased from JC Whitney) & ARP wheel stud install pics (purchased from Jegs). These are just wheel stud install photos from the front wheels. I did the rear studs at the time of the new rear end install.

I converted all the brake lines from metric to 3/16" lines from Speedway Motors. The brake lines on the rear end were changed over to 3/16" lines at the time of the new rear end install. Right now the only metric part of the braking system is the LS1 master cylinder that I bought used on ls1tech. The factory V6 unit was missing the lid, so the brake fluid wasn't any good when I bought the car. I just ordered a manual brake master cylinder from Midwest Chassis that will be going on the car next Spring.

 

With the "new to me" rear end in the car, I was now able to properly dial in the BMR Drag Bar (also bought used on ls1tech).

The last five photos are just some miscellaneous engine shots...

 

In January 2010, I ordered a Spohn driveshaft for the car. It was made specially for my longtail TH400 & factory 10 bolt rear end. When it arrived, it was clear that the slip yoke spline was much larger than what the transmission would accept. So I asked questions & did lots of research on here, and found out that I needed a 27 spline slip yoke. I ordered one from Denny's Driveshaft & swapped it out. In the process of the swap, I damaged some small plastic rings that were on the U-joint. That was a costly error as I had to buy an entire U-joint from my local Napa in order to get those two little pieces....it was a little rough on my wallet, but what's a guy to do? I did this installation on August 31, 2010.

Before I installed it into the car, I shot it with some low buck flat black spray paint.

 

Tow hooks, Open-ended lug nuts & Summit Racing fuel line

Photo #8: This photo shows the Summit Racing fuel line going into the Aeromotive Fuel Pump (part #11106)

 

Looks good man. I like the budget theme and it looks like everything has come out pretty nice so far!

 

Thank you for the kind words!

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My brother is really good at costuming & making props and such, so I had him order an extra piece of polystyrene plastic that he uses in his vacuform machine for me. I made a pattern right off of the inside of the door, and then transferred it to the plastic with permanent marker. It's very lightweight & also very inexpensive. I used sheet metal screws that I sourced from my local Ace Hardware. UPDATE: I will be installing carbon fiber door panels that I purchased from a member on another drag racing-related message board.

Then I purchased 2 yards of Sierra Promo "Charcoal" vinyl from Your Auto Trim Store to cover the panels. I still had plenty of glue from installing the carpet, so I used it to glue the vinyl down.

Photo #1: One sheet of plastic was big enough to do both door panels.

Photo #2: I used sheets of tracing paper that I taped together to make my pattern.

Photo #3: This is the panel for the passenger-side. I marked the areas to be cut with a permanent marker along with the marks indicating where I wanted to drill holes to attach it to the car door.

Photo #6: The opening for the door latch is a little ragged, but sandpaper took care of that. The opening also allows access to the door locks, so I can still lock both doors easily. I just removed the factory lever (with the florescent square) from the rod that unlocks the door. You just reach in and press the rod back to lock it, and use the door key to unlock it.

Photo #10: I attached the armrest panel that houses the power window switches to the lower part of the driver's-side panel. The openings for the power locks were just filled in with plastic cut from part of the hatch area interior panels that I'm not using.

 

More door panel photos...

Photo #1: Close up of the relocated armrest panel. The armrests were later cut up and tossed in the trash.

Photo #4 & 5: A perk to being single...I used the kitchen floor to glue the vinyl to the plastic panels. Masking tape held the tabs down that I cut so the vinyl would stay tight until the glue dried. Once the glue dried, I then drilled the holes to attach it with.

Photo #6 & 7: These two photos show how I cut the plastic for the power window switches.

Photo #8-10: The completed panels. The Pontiac decal that is behind the door latch was later removed.

 

Three more door panel photos. I really don't miss the armrests since there is a good lip at the top of the door to grab onto to close it. At some point, I will be installing some metal trim along the tops of both doors. I've got it started, just need to finish them. When I do that, I may invest in some door pulls. Also of note in the first photo...I currently have a B&M Megashifter installed in the car, but next Spring that is coming out & being replaced with a Hurst Quarter Stick Shifter (which to my disappointment is made in China).

And now for the exterior graphics...

I created the artwork in Adobe Illustrator 10 as full-size art. My brother has a vinyl cutter, and he is cutting the decals for me. With Winter upon us, it will be Spring before I can finish them up. He has already cut a few of them for me, and I have most of those already applied to the car.

Photo #4-6: These are actual photos of the car with the graphics applied with my computer.

Photo #7-8: The vinyl, tape & other supplies. The colors are Saffron, Tomato Red & Black

Photo #9: I pieced the large multi-colored decals together in my art studio. This way made it easier & quicker since everything was applied in one shot. The American Flag decal is a pre-printed decal that I bought at my nearby AutoZone.

Photo #10: The start of applying the door decals to the car. I worked with vinyl for many years at a former job, and I enjoyed it. So, this was fun for me!

 

More decal images...

Photo #1: This isn't the time to be rushing....I make sure the decal is hanging exactly where I want it before any of the backing paper is removed.

Photo #2: Cutting the decal after it's been taped onto the car makes applying it so much easier.

Photo #3: The finished product! My brother also cut the UMI Performance decal on the lower door, my name on the glass, my Open Comp number & the Robinson Family Racing decal on the roof halo.

Photo #4: My logo since 1994.

Photo #5: I thought this was a cool place to put my website address.

Photo #6: My take on the "WS6" logo that gives credit to my brother for the vinyl work.

Photo #7: I even have decals on the inside that he cut for me.

 

Photo #1-5: Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (part #13301) mounted on a bracket that I fabricated...

Photo #6 & 7: Short belt mod updated from SLP balancer to factory f-body crank balancer & new Dayco Poly Rib belt (sourced from AutoZone). Belt part number is #5060525. Installed 10/16/10.

Photo #8: A REALLY dry-rotted tire New front tires coming in January 2011. I aired this tire up when I rolled the car out of the way in December 2010 for Winter hibernation, and I am so surprised that it didn't pop.

Photo #9 & 10: The threads in the end of the crankshaft for the balancer pulley became so stripped out that I couldn't get a metric crankshaft bolt to grab hold. So, I tapped it for a 3/4" bolt. In order to do that more efficiently, I took the 3/4" tap and welded a 1/2" socket to it so that I could stick a ratchet on it.

 

Factory LT1 T-56 Transmission Crossmember that I purchased used on ebay. The mounting hole lines up perfectly with the TH400 transmission. I added a 1" spacer to it to take up the space between the trans & the crossmember. I used a leftover piece of rollbar tubing, and welded several washers together before welding them into the end of the pipe. Then I welded the pipe to the crossmember.

Photo #7: This is how the car looks as of December 2010.

Photo #8-10: When I purchased the Duralast battery, it was a side-post battery. The previous battery was a top-post. That presented a small problem with attaching the battery cables to the new battery in such a low location. So, I fabricated a "sub floor" and raised up the battery box. I also modified the battery box to accept the side-post positive battery cable. To the make the sub floor I started by taking a cereal box and creating a template. Then I just transfered that over to the metal I wanted to cut.

 

The last of the battery photos...

Photo #5: So it's November 2010, and I have a few things to finish up before I can try firing the car. I get the last of the wiring done, and prepare to turn the key over.....and I get nothing. So I retrace all my steps and know that I've done everything correctly (or so I thought). Since all the wiring is correct for the starter circuit, I decided to check out the starter since it smelled a little hot.

The starter was used when I bought it, so I am assuming that it is in working condition. I drop the starter and realize that I screwed up the wiring to it. That really urks me because it's only two freaking wires...how could I screw that up? So I get that fixed with new wiring, and thought I'd better have the starter tested while it's out of the car. So I make the 10 mile trek to the nearest AutoZone, and have them test the starter. I stood there and watched the guy punch in all the info & then hook my starter up. He runs the machine, and up comes "PASSED" in big letters on the screen. I take it home and put it back on the engine...turn the key and still nothing.

By this time I've started a thread in the Conversions & Hybrids forum explaining my dilemma. The wiring is right, the started "passed", so then I'm thinking maybe I should just bypass the factory ignition. So I pick up an aftermarket ignition switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts, and hook it up. Now it should start I say to myself as I turn the key.......but I was wrong. By this time I'm a little aggravated because it's just not making sense. Everything is wired correctly & all the components work (or so I thought). The last straw is to jump the two terminals on the starter to see if it'll do anything at all. With a long piece of rubber hose and a screwdriver stuck in the end, I touched it across both starter terminals. Then I rubbed it across both terminals. I couldn't get it to do anything at all. Alrighty then....I dropped the starter once again & bought a new one at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

I hooked the new starter up, and turned the key......and this time it started! So now how in the world did the machine at AutoZone "pass" a bad starter? hmmm....inquiring minds want to know

Photo #4: Old starter versus new starter

Photo #5: Aftermarket ignition switch is in the area of the factory HVAC.

Photo #6: The new wiring that I put on the used starter thinking that would solve the no start issue.

Photo #7: Exhaust I fabricated using Summit Racing components. New exhaust will be fabricated as soon as the weather gets nice again.

 

Nice job!

 

Thank you!

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With the cage in the car, the interior panels were gonna need some massaging. After it was all said & done, the only panel that wasn't modified in any way was the passenger-side rocker trim. If I didn't just remove it with no plans to replace it, then I did some sort of cutting on it. The knock-off dremel that I have came in very handy for this process. I accidentally ran across a photo that a member on here had posted of the cutout they made to the sail panels. The cutouts were made in order to allow the sail panels to sit properly around the mini tubs. I liked how it was done so much that I copied it.

I cut out aluminum panels and riveted them in place of the speaker grilles since I thought keeping the speaker grilles would look funny without a radio in the car. Then I just spray-painted them black.

The upper dash panel had to be cut where the front cage bars come through.

The hatch area panels end at the rear bulkhead.

The A-pillar panels used to continue on back to the sail panels, but I had to cut them because I fit the cage to the roof as tightly as I could.

 

Photo #1: The upper dash panel required a couple notches in the ends to clear the forward cage bars.

Photo #2: One of the sail panels covered up so the aluminum "block off" panels can be spray-painted black.

Photo #3-7: Installation of the modified interior panels. I had to be very careful to not scratch the painted roll cage.

Photo #8: Summit Racing Helmet Hook

Photo #9 & 10: I relocated the third brake light since I was afraid the factory location would be hard to see for some vehicles with the Ed Quay spoiler installed. I ordered the brake light from JC Whitney.

 

cool thread, nice job!