12" Wheels in True 10.5 Tires!! Updated 12" narrowed Racecraft 9" rearend
08-17-2011, 12:59 PM
#41
and here are my questions after putting everything on the car :
the steering rack seems to sit too far forward cause the tie rods angle back quite a bit , is this normal for a drage application ??
another thing i noticed was that the coilover spring touches the spindle body at full droop , should we be concerned about this or just ignore it since the front end will be tied down with the travel limiters (see last pic)?
last question ( to make the OP feel better ) is is it ok to have the rear shocks angled inward a bit ? because of the narrowed rear end the bottom of the shocks are closer to each other than the tops - kinda like \ / ( but not as dramatic
)
another thing i'd like to mention is that the diff fit in there with 6" chopped off each end but its close ( there was about a half inch gap between the tires and the LCA's and the frame ) spacers are not really needed but would definatly make everything fit " better "
, what you will need is offset LCA mounts and a shorter panhard bar .
the steering rack seems to sit too far forward cause the tie rods angle back quite a bit , is this normal for a drage application ??
another thing i noticed was that the coilover spring touches the spindle body at full droop , should we be concerned about this or just ignore it since the front end will be tied down with the travel limiters (see last pic)?
last question ( to make the OP feel better ) is is it ok to have the rear shocks angled inward a bit ? because of the narrowed rear end the bottom of the shocks are closer to each other than the tops - kinda like \ / ( but not as dramatic
)another thing i'd like to mention is that the diff fit in there with 6" chopped off each end but its close ( there was about a half inch gap between the tires and the LCA's and the frame ) spacers are not really needed but would definatly make everything fit " better "
, what you will need is offset LCA mounts and a shorter panhard bar .Last edited by ShiznityZ28; 08-17-2011 at 01:11 PM.
08-17-2011, 09:53 PM
#43
update:
thank you 1dirtyz for uploading the pics and for helping me building my car.
i have received Racecraft 9" rear end narrowed 6" from each end, and i also got my weld racing 15 X 12 bead lock wheels with 4" back spacing and hoosier 28x10.5 slicks . i also have the car minitubbed .
here is how the whole setup looks : (in the pictures we hand tight every thing)
WOLF dual sway bar
from the pics you see above, there is a 2 inchs gap between the fender and the side wall, i'm going to use a spacer as the LCA barely touch the tires.
had to cut the pan hard bracket to clear the wheels and use the second hole instead.
i've got the Fornt Ultra-light suspension package installed also
2" drop spindle
thank you 1dirtyz for uploading the pics
and for helping me building my car.i have received Racecraft 9" rear end narrowed 6" from each end, and i also got my weld racing 15 X 12 bead lock wheels with 4" back spacing and hoosier 28x10.5 slicks . i also have the car minitubbed .
here is how the whole setup looks : (in the pictures we hand tight every thing)
WOLF dual sway bar
from the pics you see above, there is a 2 inchs gap between the fender and the side wall, i'm going to use a spacer as the LCA barely touch the tires.
had to cut the pan hard bracket to clear the wheels and use the second hole instead.
i've got the Fornt Ultra-light suspension package installed also
2" drop spindle
Mike
08-17-2011, 10:47 PM
#44
Nice parts man. There stuff is top notch.
How did you even get the shocks in? The reason there hitting the spindles in you have the upper mounts on the wrong sides.
Noticed that right away in that mockup pic. If thats the way you left it ther on the wrong side. You got ther front end kit with the good AFCOs so I Guess the rod ends pivot that much for you to bolt them in.
Your caster is way back, and thays why the rack looks funny reaching. The sterring arms are anginf upwards now too. Easy fix, dont think it should have damaged anything
How did you even get the shocks in? The reason there hitting the spindles in you have the upper mounts on the wrong sides.
Noticed that right away in that mockup pic. If thats the way you left it ther on the wrong side. You got ther front end kit with the good AFCOs so I Guess the rod ends pivot that much for you to bolt them in.
Your caster is way back, and thays why the rack looks funny reaching. The sterring arms are anginf upwards now too. Easy fix, dont think it should have damaged anything 
08-18-2011, 08:58 AM
#47
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the racecraft purposly puts the rack forward for clearance. its fine that way. the coilovers hit the spindle is fine unless your going to take it off some sweet jumps. and yes the shocks can be in a little. ours are the same has to be to keep "stock suspention mounts"
thank you
sorry Sam
09-19-2011, 11:12 AM
#48
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so the parts are all off now and the shell is off to get painted , so we should get it back by the end on the week i hope.
then its the mad dash to get the following done:
- install rear end and torque arm (he used my old 12bolt for rolling it to paint)
- install lexan windows
- install speedwire wiring harness
- front suspension / kmember
- dzus rails and fasteners
- hang doors/hatch and hood
- get driveshaft made / shortened
- install fuel system
- drop engine and new trans in
- reinstall interior
- plumb new brake lines
- install the new cave ,,, i mean hood scoop
- fire it up and hope it runs
then its the mad dash to get the following done:
- install rear end and torque arm (he used my old 12bolt for rolling it to paint)
- install lexan windows
- install speedwire wiring harness
- front suspension / kmember
- dzus rails and fasteners
- hang doors/hatch and hood
- get driveshaft made / shortened
- install fuel system
- drop engine and new trans in
- reinstall interior
- plumb new brake lines
- install the new cave ,,, i mean hood scoop
- fire it up and hope it runs
