How will 1/4 mph change with ss3600?
01-17-2011, 10:38 AM
#1
How will 1/4 mph change with ss3600? Im just about set on a ss3600. It just seems like the best street/strip stall for mostly a street car.
One thing im wondering is with just the addition of a ss3600 what will be the difference in mph? Will mph go down? Stay the same? Or go higher? My 1/4 stats are in sig.
One thing im wondering is with just the addition of a ss3600 what will be the difference in mph? Will mph go down? Stay the same? Or go higher? My 1/4 stats are in sig.
01-17-2011, 10:42 AM
#2
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I don't know for sure, but I think the reality is that a well setup converter will not lose mph (maybe even gain a couple) but most importantly will knock down your e.t. like nothing else. Someone else chime in if that is incorrect or to elaborate on why.
01-17-2011, 10:43 AM
#3
It depends on the gear. If it's all set up correctly, you won't lose hardly any. If you have a 2.73 gear you will lose some MPH but the car will still ET better. With everything setup correct. you could see .4+ improvement on ET. I think that stall speed is good for a street strip car. Plenty of guys drive those converters daily. I would look at a good name brand converter. You will be glad you did. Some of the cheaper converters are known to have issues.
Jon
Jon
01-17-2011, 10:48 AM
#5
It depends on the gear. If it's all set up correctly, you won't lose hardly any. If you have a 2.73 gear you will lose some MPH but the car will still ET better. With everything setup correct. you could see .4+ improvement on ET. I think that stall speed is good for a street strip car. Plenty of guys drive those converters daily. I would look at a good name brand converter. You will be glad you did. Some of the cheaper converters are known to have issues.
Jon
Jon
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01-17-2011, 02:53 PM
#12
I bought a great set of low mile GM 3.42's from the classifieds on here for $50 shipped. The GM ones are durable, won't whine, and like I said, cheap if you can find them used (not usually too hard). The swap might "not be worth it" in some people's eyes, but it is a performance gain none the less, and it also gets the gearing into the manufacterer's reccomended range, which is what I'm after as well.
The reason I got 3.42's is I want the ss3600, but I don't want to sacrifice gas mileage on my primarily street driven street/strip car. Also, too many stories and experiences about gear whine with aftermarket gears for my liking, so I got some GM ones from a manual car.
I'd definately get at least 3.42's if not 3.73's and the ss3600 over a 3.23/ss3200 setup.
01-17-2011, 04:07 PM
#13
I'd switch gears before you sacrifice performance. For the reason you don't want to swap gears (supposed minimal gains in performance) you're leaving a lot on the table by going with a smaller stall. (even more minimal performance) So it's kind of hyprocritical to get a smaller stall becuase you don't think the gear swap is worth it.
I bought a great set of low mile GM 3.42's from the classifieds on here for $50 shipped. The GM ones are durable, won't whine, and like I said, cheap if you can find them used (not usually too hard). The swap might "not be worth it" in some people's eyes, but it is a performance gain none the less, and it also gets the gearing into the manufacterer's reccomended range, which is what I'm after as well.
The reason I got 3.42's is I want the ss3600, but I don't want to sacrifice gas mileage on my primarily street driven street/strip car. Also, too many stories and experiences about gear whine with aftermarket gears for my liking, so I got some GM ones from a manual car.
I'd definately get at least 3.42's if not 3.73's and the ss3600 over a 3.23/ss3200 setup.
I bought a great set of low mile GM 3.42's from the classifieds on here for $50 shipped. The GM ones are durable, won't whine, and like I said, cheap if you can find them used (not usually too hard). The swap might "not be worth it" in some people's eyes, but it is a performance gain none the less, and it also gets the gearing into the manufacterer's reccomended range, which is what I'm after as well.
The reason I got 3.42's is I want the ss3600, but I don't want to sacrifice gas mileage on my primarily street driven street/strip car. Also, too many stories and experiences about gear whine with aftermarket gears for my liking, so I got some GM ones from a manual car.
I'd definately get at least 3.42's if not 3.73's and the ss3600 over a 3.23/ss3200 setup.
I would really like to correctly match stall to gears for sure.
01-17-2011, 08:07 PM
#14
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The steeper gear will help with driveability. My vig3600 is a little looser than the Yank and you can definitely notice it with 3.23s. I suspect that if i upgraded to 3.73s or 3.90s then my driveability on the street would be better but I would gain little to nothing at the track.
01-17-2011, 08:18 PM
#15
The steeper gear will help with driveability. My vig3600 is a little looser than the Yank and you can definitely notice it with 3.23s. I suspect that if i upgraded to 3.73s or 3.90s then my driveability on the street would be better but I would gain little to nothing at the track.
The yank wouldnt be as bad though because yank tends to be a tighter converter than vig correct?
What would be the gains if any .1?
01-17-2011, 09:18 PM
#16
I can't imaging making a huge difference in drivability. The reason for the difference is a stall speed is made up of a many factors. Ultimately it works out to force in vs. resistance out. The 3.23s will make the 3600 feel loose compared to the 3.73. The higher gear makes it harder for the converter to move the car, therefore it stalls higher under event light throttle.
I would guess the reason that the 3600 is recommended for the lower gear is because it will stall more like 3700-4000 depending on your HP, weight, and tire size. Seeing you don't have a ton of HP I would think you should be fine with the 3600 and your current setup. I would plan to do some gears in the future especially as you HP increases but I don't see any reason to make them a pre-requisite or extremely important to the installing of your converter.
I would guess the reason that the 3600 is recommended for the lower gear is because it will stall more like 3700-4000 depending on your HP, weight, and tire size. Seeing you don't have a ton of HP I would think you should be fine with the 3600 and your current setup. I would plan to do some gears in the future especially as you HP increases but I don't see any reason to make them a pre-requisite or extremely important to the installing of your converter.
01-17-2011, 09:54 PM
#18
Incorrect.. gears matter more in a manual than an auto.
If you do a lot of highway driving I would stick with 323s.. the converter won't effect highway mpg any, will be same as stock, gears will.
You might see a .1 difference with 373s, but I would be shocked if you saw anything more and would het money against it.
You will regret the 3200, trust me.3600 would be minimum, I would even think 4000 if i were you.
Fwiw, I DD a 4400 vig with 323s for almost a year.. my biddy dd a 4000ptc in his bolt on car, he cuts low 1.6 times with bolt one no tune and average weather, exhaust, lid and nothing else. Full weight and ran with **** in the back.
I dd my ptc 4000 before getting a dd for the winter for alkost a year.
The difference between a 3600 and 4000 normal driving is about 100rpms.. once it locks it is the same. The 60 will be about .07 quicker from what i have seen, or over .1 in the 1/8 etc.
Typed from phone.. hope I got my message across so you could understand it I didnt proof read lol
If you do a lot of highway driving I would stick with 323s.. the converter won't effect highway mpg any, will be same as stock, gears will.
You might see a .1 difference with 373s, but I would be shocked if you saw anything more and would het money against it.
You will regret the 3200, trust me.3600 would be minimum, I would even think 4000 if i were you.
Fwiw, I DD a 4400 vig with 323s for almost a year.. my biddy dd a 4000ptc in his bolt on car, he cuts low 1.6 times with bolt one no tune and average weather, exhaust, lid and nothing else. Full weight and ran with **** in the back.
I dd my ptc 4000 before getting a dd for the winter for alkost a year.
The difference between a 3600 and 4000 normal driving is about 100rpms.. once it locks it is the same. The 60 will be about .07 quicker from what i have seen, or over .1 in the 1/8 etc.
Typed from phone.. hope I got my message across so you could understand it I didnt proof read lol
01-17-2011, 10:15 PM
#19
Incorrect.. gears matter more in a manual than an auto.
If you do a lot of highway driving I would stick with 323s.. the converter won't effect highway mpg any, will be same as stock, gears will.
You might see a .1 difference with 373s, but I would be shocked if you saw anything more and would het money against it.
You will regret the 3200, trust me.3600 would be minimum, I would even think 4000 if i were you.
Fwiw, I DD a 4400 vig with 323s for almost a year.. my biddy dd a 4000ptc in his bolt on car, he cuts low 1.6 times with bolt one no tune and average weather, exhaust, lid and nothing else. Full weight and ran with **** in the back.
I dd my ptc 4000 before getting a dd for the winter for alkost a year.
The difference between a 3600 and 4000 normal driving is about 100rpms.. once it locks it is the same. The 60 will be about .07 quicker from what i have seen, or over .1 in the 1/8 etc.
Typed from phone.. hope I got my message across so you could understand it I didnt proof read lol
If you do a lot of highway driving I would stick with 323s.. the converter won't effect highway mpg any, will be same as stock, gears will.
You might see a .1 difference with 373s, but I would be shocked if you saw anything more and would het money against it.
You will regret the 3200, trust me.3600 would be minimum, I would even think 4000 if i were you.
Fwiw, I DD a 4400 vig with 323s for almost a year.. my biddy dd a 4000ptc in his bolt on car, he cuts low 1.6 times with bolt one no tune and average weather, exhaust, lid and nothing else. Full weight and ran with **** in the back.
I dd my ptc 4000 before getting a dd for the winter for alkost a year.
The difference between a 3600 and 4000 normal driving is about 100rpms.. once it locks it is the same. The 60 will be about .07 quicker from what i have seen, or over .1 in the 1/8 etc.
Typed from phone.. hope I got my message across so you could understand it I didnt proof read lol
Everyone keeps talking about driveability with the 3.23 w/3600. I really didnt plan on doing gears. I cant imagine driveability being noticeable 3.23 vs 3.73. But idk. Any advice on that?
01-17-2011, 10:25 PM
#20
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I agree with mastertomas i have a 373 gear, and im going from a 3200 stall to a 3600 stall.I believe it will help me out the hole alot better. If i was you i would go with a 373 gear and a 3600 stall.
Just with my old 3200 stall i was cutting a 1.734 60 Ft. So i know with my 3600 stall its going to be sweet as bear meat Lol.