ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

I am curently running a stock tank with a Walbro setup, i am wanting to trash it and go with a after market setup. I am thinking of running one of Nate's fuel cells so i can use the factory filler the rest i am open on. I would rather replace all the factory lines that are required and ditch what is not. The fuel system at the motor is fine..

Here is my question, what can go and what needs to stay? There is alot of factory lines with the fuel system now. Whats required with the new setup and what goes away? Thanks for any ideas or help from anyone who has done this. Just trying to get everything together before the spring.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Let me ask you this: how much fuel do you need to hold? Do you still drive the car at all?

If not, then I would stick a 3 gallon deal in the nose of the car and call it a day. Less fuel capacity = less fire, if something ever happened. And, you can now put a fire system in the car and only worry about an engine bay fire...

If you still need to drive the car and want to use the factory filler neck, the fuel tank from nate is a good idea. You can have that set up with a sump and a good external pump, run a -10 line up to the front of the car and a -6 or -8 return, and have the ability to support as much power as you want that way, no problem there.

But, if it's a track only car, I'd be putting the little guy in the front. No more fighting gravity to get the fuel to the motor, small qty is lighter, less fire like I mentioned, less chance of bad fuel, since you will keep very fresh stuff in it all the time, etc.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

If you're gonna use a sumped fuel cell, like Nate's, you won't be using any of the factory lines. Why would you?
-10 feed and -6 will be all you'll need as far as lines go.
With a high pressure efi fuel pump you will need a cartridge filter before and after, probably a check valve and if you are going to be street driving you will also likely need a fuel pump controler so you don't overwork the pump when driving around. Also a regulator.
Nate makes a nice tank but the stock straps don't really fit well IMO with it and if you have wheelie bars, like I do, I found the rear sides of the tank interfered with them. I had to have the tank modified to clear them (now stock straps actually fit well) so add another $150-$200 to the price of the already expensive Nate tank it you wanna run the bars.
What fuel rails do you have? If they are factory they will have to go as well.
By the time you're done with the tank, pump, filters, check valve, regulator, rails, fuel pump controller and all the AN lines and fittings you'l be into it for the better part of 3k, fyi.

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

I am running the Nates fuel rails already..with 42 lb injectors..

I dont really daily drive but i do a few local cruise ins and car shows.. Its mostly a track car and when i do drive its local.. its trailored to the track..

I figured i would need line in return line.. regulator/pump and filter

Any suggestions? Am i missing anything or is it that forward..

For those that went this way, any tunning issues?

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

What power are you planning on?

If you your mods consist of what is in your signature, you are wasting money on any major fuel system components.

With only pump upgrades, you can support approx 700rwhp, with stock tank & lines.

With corresponding line upgrades etc, 1000rwhp is possible without changing the tank.

If you want to discuss in more detail, give me a call. I can get you what you need without breaking the bank.

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

PM sent Lonnie...

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

We are in process to put in a 3 gallon fuel cell in my Hot Rod at a decent cost.

It is a true bracket car. I want it to weigh the same every time down the track.

Pics and info to come.

Coach