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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:14 AM
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Default Guys that have the PT4000

Iv been looking into my first stall. I was gonna go with ss series like everyone else but I wanted a converter that would pull like a beast at highway speeds while at the same time has a decent 60'. (Efficient) So after all reasech came up with the PT4000 for my 3.23 car mods in sig. Its mostly a street car but not a DD / track car a couple times a year. What do you think?
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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I think most guys are going to say change gears to go with the converter but I think you will be just fine as is. The gear swap will just compliment the converter so that it doesn't stall as high under normal driving I don't think it will be a very noticeable difference.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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2 guys that I know of drive this thing with 3.23s. How many rpms would it tighten up if I switched to 3.73s? Any idea?
3.23s are better for highway no? Keep in mind its mostly a street car but not a dd.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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Well my friend has the PT/3.73s and I have the SS/2.73s and all the times we raced, there really isn't a clear winner. We exchange wins all the time. Depends who finds traction.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by allbaugh_04
Well my friend has the PT/3.73s and I have the SS/2.73s and all the times we raced, there really isn't a clear winner. We exchange wins all the time. Depends who finds traction.
But are these races from a dig?

I would expect from a dig the SS would take it but at highway speeds the PT should come out on top.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by senicalj4579
But are these races from a dig?

I would expect from a dig the SS would take it but at highway speeds the PT should come out on top.
We only race from a dig, whoever gets the launch without spinning, wins.

It's as simple as that.

We pretty much have the exact same mods, cam, bolt-ons, he has MTs, I have Nittos. We have different tuners, tires, gears, he has a ud pulley.

We have races where we are dead even the whole way.

The numbers on the stalls vary a lot, your assumptions I would say are correct when I look at the numbers, but on the street, there is hardly any difference at all.

I'd like to tell you our track times, but we don't have a 1/4 mile here.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:57 PM
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Some people will try to tell you the stall will be noticable from the 3.23 to the 4.11 but I really can't see it at all.

The converter will do you well and should daily drive ok. It is fairly loose for a daily driver but if you like performance you take that to the bank. Meaning I love to loose a slight bit of confort to remind me I can hand someone there *** if need be.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by custm2500
Some people will try to tell you the stall will be noticable from the 3.23 to the 4.11 but I really can't see it at all.

The converter will do you well and should daily drive ok. It is fairly loose for a daily driver but if you like performance you take that to the bank. Meaning I love to loose a slight bit of confort to remind me I can hand someone there *** if need be.
Why did you use 4.11 as an example is that what is recomended for gear with the pt4k?
Iv heard really good things about this stall beating up on some manuals on the highway. Hope I didnt just start some **** lol
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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Don't look to beat or tie with an equal modded m6 on the highway with any stalled a4. Only way is if you have more mods or the driver sucks.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Don't look to beat or tie with an equal modded m6 on the highway with any stalled a4. Only way is if you have more mods or the driver sucks.
Absolutely. But if anything, this type of stall should be closest to making that happen.
Talked with a guy on youtube that has same exact stall with same minor boltons as me as well as 3.23s. Says its not that big a deal to drive on the street and he beat m6 cars. I think im going with this one.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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I am not sure the gears that are reccomended by the manufacture. I just remember a thread similar to this a few weeks back that the main aregument was if gears were needed. They won't make that noticble of a differance. Almost none.

Again you current set up should be absolutly awesome. But the gears down the road should help a bit more with your goals of going faster and make it slightly more DD friendly.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:29 PM
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4000 and 323s will be fine..
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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^^^^thats what im thinking
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
4000 and 323s will be fine..
I agree. I am just telling you what people who like to do everything by the book will tell you.
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:41 PM
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I had one in a boltons then cammed car and loved it. I did have 3.73s the entire time though. The SS definitely hits a lot harder in the 60ft but the pt has a much better MPH. I agree that it pulled like a beast up top, and I beat an M6 car with a lot more power from a stop and roll.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by FlashLCD33
I had one in a boltons then cammed car and loved it. I did have 3.73s the entire time though. The SS definitely hits a lot harder in the 60ft but the pt has a much better MPH. I agree that it pulled like a beast up top, and I beat an M6 car with a lot more power from a stop and roll.
Did you DD the PT?
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:46 AM
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I DD a pt4000. I think with 3.42's its about perfect. 2000-2500 rpms on the highway depending on speed. I feel 3.42's help give you better rpms for the common rolls as well.

This thing is not that loose really. People exaggerate. Or maybe its just me. I dont think I would have a problem with a pt4400. I might do that if i ever change the motor combo.

Current combo is pretty basic but drives and runs well. Once I finish buttoning it all up a small shot will go on and it will be about perfect. 23+ mpg, fun to drive, fast for a street car.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by w3s1c0a5t
I DD a pt4000. I think with 3.42's its about perfect. 2000-2500 rpms on the highway depending on speed. I feel 3.42's help give you better rpms for the common rolls as well.

This thing is not that loose really. People exaggerate. Or maybe its just me. I dont think I would have a problem with a pt4400. I might do that if i ever change the motor combo.

Current combo is pretty basic but drives and runs well. Once I finish buttoning it all up a small shot will go on and it will be about perfect. 23+ mpg, fun to drive, fast for a street car.

Whats your mods? What do you think about this stall in my 3.23 with basic boltons in my sig? Thanks for posting.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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Formula some weight reduction and a basic H/C/I. Prolly 420hp range. 3.42 m6 ten bolt pt4000 in a built 4l60e. Nothing fancy.

I would rock it out. The stall works great. With 3.23's and less power it will feel a little sloppier than mine does im sure. Honestly I like the fact that it doesnt hit as hard down low. I race and play on the street more than anything and traction is better this way. I already have to pedal so I doubt a ss4000 would even be faster down low. Just my opinion. I have not had a ss4000 in my car however.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by senicalj4579
Did you DD the PT?
I DD'd it during nice spring/summer/fall days.. I had a truck for rain/snow etc. I live in a town of about 30k people so its all 35mph or below through town. I didn't think it was too loose at all, I really loved that stall. I'm assuming you're staying with a 4l60e, and if that's the case highway driving will be the exact same as what you have now when the converter is locked. When you need some "passing gear" it really opens up. Once you drive a stalled car you'll never have another one without one.

My next car had a bigger motor/cam and I went with a 4500 stall, I drove that on nice days as well and didn't think it was too bad. It was a th350 with 4.10s though so it didn't see any highway duty.
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