Tubes vs No Tubes
this thread doesnt help at all... some people say screws won't leak, some say it will... and Ive been reading up on this for 2 weeks now.. Need some helpful advice because I'm going to race in a few days and was wanting to screw my rims.
I wanna screw in my Hoosier 15" x 10" x 26" on a 3400lbs M6 car making 500rwhp. I am running bogarts and would hate to put screws in and mess up the rim.
But my rims spin inside the tire about 1".
I wanna screw in my Hoosier 15" x 10" x 26" on a 3400lbs M6 car making 500rwhp. I am running bogarts and would hate to put screws in and mess up the rim.
But my rims spin inside the tire about 1".
Jegs has the template and correct screws to use. I actually had one tire that would leak and the other wouldn't leak. Took the tires off the rims and the one that would leak I had snapped the screws. This was on a 28-11.50 Hoosier QTP. I will use screws from here on out with or with out tubes. And my car is just a lowly 11.7xx car and a 6spd.
this thread doesnt help at all... some people say screws won't leak, some say it will... and Ive been reading up on this for 2 weeks now.. Need some helpful advice because I'm going to race in a few days and was wanting to screw my rims.
I wanna screw in my Hoosier 15" x 10" x 26" on a 3400lbs M6 car making 500rwhp. I am running bogarts and would hate to put screws in and mess up the rim.
But my rims spin inside the tire about 1".
I wanna screw in my Hoosier 15" x 10" x 26" on a 3400lbs M6 car making 500rwhp. I am running bogarts and would hate to put screws in and mess up the rim.
But my rims spin inside the tire about 1".
Put in the screws wither way.
No tube: lighter, theoretically should be faster, will leak over time, and will absolutely wear the tire out faster.
Tube: extra weight, cost, might 60' a little better, and the slicks will last much longer
No tube: lighter, theoretically should be faster, will leak over time, and will absolutely wear the tire out faster.
Tube: extra weight, cost, might 60' a little better, and the slicks will last much longer
Screws and tubes worked better for me than neither, or just screws alone.
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s4
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s4
Here is one for you guys. Would it be dumb to get beadlocks when your only a cam only car? Hopefully running 10s? They look better and do the same, But part of me thinks it dumb because is overkill and the other half says do it. But I probly going to try the permatex high tack glue first.
Not the biggest fan of screws but they can work. A big problem I see alot are the tires aired down too much. For some reason the un writen rule is 12-14lbs in ET streets. I just go the other way and work out the suspension and run 18-24lbs. My personal low 10 second car ran 22-24lbs with no screws and ran a bracket class hitting 1.40 - 1.42 60's consistant. Never spun them.
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You will have some leak down with no tubes. You can try RTV sealant around the rim and with the screws. Tubes solve most of the leak down problems and also keep the air pressure more constant during racing.
Spun my Weld wheels using ET streets tubeless with 16 lbs of air over 1 1/2 inches with only 1.5 60 foots. When you move into slicks increasing traction the wheel will more than likely spin even more.
N2
As soon as I unboxed my Bogarts I placed the template I made on my wheels and drilled away and never looked back!
You will have some leak down with no tubes. You can try RTV sealant around the rim and with the screws. Tubes solve most of the leak down problems and also keep the air pressure more constant during racing.
Spun my Weld wheels using ET streets tubeless with 16 lbs of air over 1 1/2 inches with only 1.5 60 foots. When you move into slicks increasing traction the wheel will more than likely spin even more.
N2
You will have some leak down with no tubes. You can try RTV sealant around the rim and with the screws. Tubes solve most of the leak down problems and also keep the air pressure more constant during racing.
Spun my Weld wheels using ET streets tubeless with 16 lbs of air over 1 1/2 inches with only 1.5 60 foots. When you move into slicks increasing traction the wheel will more than likely spin even more.
N2
I had a question about that.. If I screw my slicks how can I draw even marks around? what tool should I use to ensure I am getting symmetrical results.
Good luck.
N2
Or just send your wheels out and have double beadlocks put on them and never worry about the screw making the tire leak, or the tire slipping on the rim... win win.
Cost would be the only downside to it.
Cost would be the only downside to it.
For the OP, I have never had a screw damage my tubes and in my case one time I even ran the slicks without tubes and only had minor leak down. One hint you can grind the tips off each screw to help in protecting the tire and tube. There is no need for the tip also use the lock washers. I did this on two sets of wheels and had no issues.
N2
Here is one for you guys. Would it be dumb to get beadlocks when your only a cam only car? Hopefully running 10s? They look better and do the same, But part of me thinks it dumb because is overkill and the other half says do it. But I probly going to try the permatex high tack glue first.
I will caution you about that glue people use, that stuff, will stick, and stick so good I have seen rims get destroyed trying to get the tires off.
If you have the room to put a dbl beadlock, and the cost isn't going to kill you do it. Then you can mount the tires in your garage yourself with no machine, and never pay for that service again, or worry about a tire guy messing up your wheels.
N2 I don't think that the beadlock's are THAT heavy where it would hurt the on track performance. I think my 15x12 sander engineering dbl beadlocks (pretty think lock ring, but ALOT of people use them on cars way faster then I will ever go with no issues, and the wheel is SFI approved fwiw) were about 6 lbs heavier then the bogart 15x10 I had on the car. Being a bigger wheel, and the dbl locks, I didn't think it was that bad.
I know rotational weight will hurt a car, only way to really test that would be 2 hits back to back, with just the wheel swap.
On the other side, you could gain due to the sidewall being more evenly worked, the car could 60 foot better because of that, or let you make another suspension adjustment that would pick it up some, maybe run another 1/2 lb to 1 lb of air to get the tire to have less rolling resistance... have to try to really know.
I did it, just so there would never, never be another tire monkey touching my rims, and bending them (had it happen twice with my bogarts, and had to have them straitened, twice) then asking me for money. WTF
If you have the room to put a dbl beadlock, and the cost isn't going to kill you do it. Then you can mount the tires in your garage yourself with no machine, and never pay for that service again, or worry about a tire guy messing up your wheels.
N2 I don't think that the beadlock's are THAT heavy where it would hurt the on track performance. I think my 15x12 sander engineering dbl beadlocks (pretty think lock ring, but ALOT of people use them on cars way faster then I will ever go with no issues, and the wheel is SFI approved fwiw) were about 6 lbs heavier then the bogart 15x10 I had on the car. Being a bigger wheel, and the dbl locks, I didn't think it was that bad.
I know rotational weight will hurt a car, only way to really test that would be 2 hits back to back, with just the wheel swap.
On the other side, you could gain due to the sidewall being more evenly worked, the car could 60 foot better because of that, or let you make another suspension adjustment that would pick it up some, maybe run another 1/2 lb to 1 lb of air to get the tire to have less rolling resistance... have to try to really know.
I did it, just so there would never, never be another tire monkey touching my rims, and bending them (had it happen twice with my bogarts, and had to have them straitened, twice) then asking me for money. WTF
I was told the back of my bogarts couldn't be beadlocked due to the backspacing.