OP, you want to stay with the 6 speed, correct? Then stick with a hydraulic roller.
If you decide an auto swap suites you, then go solid roller.
I do not know or care about street racing, but at the track the hydraulic roller help create a tq band you need to get the most out of your launches in a stick car. Again, if you go auto then go solid roller w/ a big stall

 

Im been thinking about this too. I'm gona need a cam for my super vic anyway, I wopuld like to run some rpms

 

don't care who's name is on it. Any real engine builder will tell you a double roller for a solid cam is the only way to go. All that extra stress on the chain due to increase in spring pressures. Spend all that money on a solid roller setup and skimp on a chain, makes no sense.

 

And then there alot of failures that have nothing to do with the spring presser. But harmonic damage, that might be more a concern on some of the chains listed

 

this is completely *** backwards. A solid roller will beat a hydraulic roller over a wider RPM range every time. And if you tailor the cam towards a smaller rpm range (drag racing) you'll see even bigger benefits.

 

The OP said he was thinking of going solid roller to spin some "serious" rpms...as is the main reason people swap in solid rollers. There is no magical cam that is going to make peak hp @ 7,500 rpm and a crap load of tq at lower rpms. With that said you DO NOT want a manual tranny behind an engine making peak power that high simply because of the launch physics. Even if you run a launch controller at 6,500rpm, you need enough tq to pull you through the initial hit- or be incredibly consistent on your tire spin outta the hole.

You might be right on the second part of your statement, I am not sure. But again, it defeats what the OP suggested.

 

uh... no. The higher you make power, the more gear you throw in the car. That's "drag racing physics" or whatever you want to call it. Tell a pro stocker that you can't launch a manual car with a peak up at 9500, they can only do sub 1 second 60'

 

You are WAY off. The more power you make the LESS gear you are going to run. Do the math, its simple. If you are trapping 120mph and crossing at peak rpm, how the hell is trapping 140mph ("more power" as you put it) on the same gear going to work? It won't.

If you are pulling more RPM then, yes you may need to gear it steeper. However, depending on how much faster you are going to trap, you may not be able to gear it steeper UNLESS you are ok with letting off the throttle before crossing the line. Use online calculators, u will see what I am talking about.

In regards to your last comment, you have to be kidding me? We are talking about a STREET driven f-body here. A pro stocker doesn't drive his car 3-5k miles a year does he? No. Ask one how often they replace or adjust their clutch.

But by all means, you know it all. How is your t-56 solid roller working out for you? Or the next guy's?....

 

You're correct. Thats one reason why belt drives are used. They are stronger then chains and absorb the harmonics. They also make cam timing convenient.

 

that was a great laugh, seriously.

 

great info on this page. hahaha

 

After getting about halfway through this thread I rammed my head through a wall....

 

Join the club lol


That belt drive and RHS block look like sex though