27 and 28" front tires
05-14-2011, 08:42 PM
#1
27 and 28" front tires I know some stocker even run 29s 
But who runs a bigger front tire? How do you like it, what changes did you see over a smaller size? And what did you have to change to run them? What size tires and wheel spec do you run, post up what shocks, spindle, control arm, and if you had to do any body work, or special aliment?
I have marks from the 26 DS2s botteming out in the wheel liners. but thinking about going to 27s
Post up your pics
But who runs a bigger front tire? How do you like it, what changes did you see over a smaller size? And what did you have to change to run them? What size tires and wheel spec do you run, post up what shocks, spindle, control arm, and if you had to do any body work, or special aliment?
I have marks from the 26 DS2s botteming out in the wheel liners. but thinking about going to 27s
Post up your pics
05-22-2011, 08:31 PM
#4
If the 26 inch tires are hitting the wheel well liners, 27's will be worse...
Guys that are running the 27+ have decresed travel, don't have the liners in (just cut them, and attach the back portion to keep the rockes out of the door jambs if ya want) and probably have the compression on the shocks stiffer to help prevent it.
What it will do for you, is give the car more "rollout", so that you can stage deeper and not have the first light get tripped, or if you stage deep, you can go a little deeper and not roll out, or you can shallow stage, and get a bit of a running start before getting out of the beams, helping ET.
Another way of doing the same thing is to offset the wheel base on the car, pull one front tire forward/backwards. This will essentially do the same thing to the beams. Or, do what I did, pull one forward a 1/2 inch, the other back 1/2 an inch, and go to a 27 inch tire.
Guys that are running the 27+ have decresed travel, don't have the liners in (just cut them, and attach the back portion to keep the rockes out of the door jambs if ya want) and probably have the compression on the shocks stiffer to help prevent it.
What it will do for you, is give the car more "rollout", so that you can stage deeper and not have the first light get tripped, or if you stage deep, you can go a little deeper and not roll out, or you can shallow stage, and get a bit of a running start before getting out of the beams, helping ET.
Another way of doing the same thing is to offset the wheel base on the car, pull one front tire forward/backwards. This will essentially do the same thing to the beams. Or, do what I did, pull one forward a 1/2 inch, the other back 1/2 an inch, and go to a 27 inch tire.
05-22-2011, 08:48 PM
#6
It's built into the K member. Car's apart.... if I took a picture you wouldn't be able to see it anyway. even if you measure from the tire to the ground effect you don't see any more then what typical factory variance is.
I know you've been around a car or 2. It's just one of those little things I did when I had the front end built, along with narrowing both sides 1 inch as well (pulls the tires in, gives the car that prostock type look a little bit)
That, along with the sander wheels I went to that don't have the spacer welded to the back of them like my bogart's did, the tires are about 1.75 inches per side in from where they were before (old pic in my signature) and it does, look killer.
Gonna take another decade at the rate I am going with it to finish the car. The decision to back 1/2 it and 4 link it, and to get the 33x10.5W tire on is going to add a bit of cost, but in the long run for what I want to do it is worth it. The rear tires, will be up inside the fenders, as the outer fender opening will not get enlarged at all. Tricky to do, but in the end.. the look will be worth while. With the back 1/2, alot of things are possible that aren't while the stock frame rails are in the way.
If you're ever in the CT area lemme know you can stop by and see it.
I know you've been around a car or 2. It's just one of those little things I did when I had the front end built, along with narrowing both sides 1 inch as well (pulls the tires in, gives the car that prostock type look a little bit)
That, along with the sander wheels I went to that don't have the spacer welded to the back of them like my bogart's did, the tires are about 1.75 inches per side in from where they were before (old pic in my signature) and it does, look killer.
Gonna take another decade at the rate I am going with it to finish the car. The decision to back 1/2 it and 4 link it, and to get the 33x10.5W tire on is going to add a bit of cost, but in the long run for what I want to do it is worth it. The rear tires, will be up inside the fenders, as the outer fender opening will not get enlarged at all. Tricky to do, but in the end.. the look will be worth while. With the back 1/2, alot of things are possible that aren't while the stock frame rails are in the way.
If you're ever in the CT area lemme know you can stop by and see it.
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05-22-2011, 08:53 PM
#8
Alot of cars can't do it without modifying something... don't feel bad.
The new dodge challenger's and camaro body in white stocker's that are being built fit a 30 inch tire in the front if they want to, with the bicycle sized wheels that they put on both cars from the factory, the wheel well's are HUGE on them. You don't notice it because you haven't seen one with a 26 inch tire in the wheel well... so noone really notices that the tires on both cars from the factory are like a 28 inch tire, and they aren't totally filling it out. Scary, that there is actually a benefit of the retarded wheel diameter's that they are putting on the cars now.
Now if they could have just not FUBAR'd the cars with IRS from the factory we'd have something.
The new dodge challenger's and camaro body in white stocker's that are being built fit a 30 inch tire in the front if they want to, with the bicycle sized wheels that they put on both cars from the factory, the wheel well's are HUGE on them. You don't notice it because you haven't seen one with a 26 inch tire in the wheel well... so noone really notices that the tires on both cars from the factory are like a 28 inch tire, and they aren't totally filling it out. Scary, that there is actually a benefit of the retarded wheel diameter's that they are putting on the cars now.
Now if they could have just not FUBAR'd the cars with IRS from the factory we'd have something.
05-22-2011, 09:16 PM
#9
I'm in the process of building a new car (hit guardrail with old one). I was tired of the 26" tire and skinny look and limited ground clearance. New tires are 205/75R15 Kumho's on 15x6 wheels. They are 27.1" tall. Had to pull inner fender forward just a little and clip the inside corner of the the fender. Front is up because motor is not in car yet but clearance will increase with front down. I'm also planning on switching to AFTCO shocks for stiffer compression control. I like this setup better.
05-23-2011, 06:12 PM
#10
I like the way 27s look, but thats a bad pic. haha
JL I think I got the marks on my wheel liners when my TrueCrap was acting up, and I might a right turn in wheelie and bottemed the **** out of the car letting off
only have SA fronts too.
JL I think I got the marks on my wheel liners when my TrueCrap was acting up, and I might a right turn in wheelie and bottemed the **** out of the car letting off
only have SA fronts too.
05-23-2011, 06:24 PM
#12
It probably will feel different turning in one direction then the other. I wouldn't know.... I have absolutely no intent of driving the car on the street when it's done, and I never will.
Car will be about 4 inches off the ground, and the exhuast will likly be about 3 if I'm lucky... just getting it in and out of the trailer, and down the track without bottoming out will be about all I can hope for.
Car will be about 4 inches off the ground, and the exhuast will likly be about 3 if I'm lucky... just getting it in and out of the trailer, and down the track without bottoming out will be about all I can hope for.
