JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I told ya the carpet mod was worth it

Get a set of frame connectors on the car asap.... before it gets twisted please trust me on this. There's a couple local guys that can make you a set or you can buy a set, either way weld them on so that they're there for good.

If ya need a guy let me know.

The firewall mat, if you pull the dash and the heat/hvac to get it all out is 11 lbs, if not more then that. It's a heavy ****.

You're at the point now that the only way to get any more weight out is to spend some $. If you decide to take that route let me know and I can help ya get the stuff installed if ya want, save some money there, and then spend it on having someone do the alignment right, etc.

( k member, a arms, shocks too while it's apart, and start looking at light brakes, redoing the brake lines and eliminating the abs, etc) That sort of stuff. I don't know how far you want to go with the car... if ya want to put the ozite in so it's not quite such a tin can, I have done a bunch of cars with that as well.

Congrats on biting the bullet and getting after it some. Ya will see an 11 second pass now I'm sure of it. Add any more power and you will be putting a 6 pt roll bar in too, that I'm sure of as well.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

still got alot of free weight, get a sawzall and some of the good Milwaukee torch blades, fine tooth. I think 24 in the finest, and 18tpi for 3-4 layers like the frame horns. And the $4 harbor fright spot weld cutter, with a $2 good ridged 3 3/32 drill bits for a center point.
still have over 100# is extra metal, covers, shields, plastics, wires. Just takes the time to put the work in.


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next best things I can think off
get a flat pin on hood, thats 47-50 pounds saving. $550
mufflers right off the headers is 50-60#s over a good 3-4inch catback. (alot louder inside) $125-180 (sell you catback for 2-400?)

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Guys thanks a TON for all the help. This board rocks always has!

I didnt really wanna go cutting or hacking up the car but I didnt wanna take out seats, carpet, ac ect... in the begining either so chances are I might lol.

Edit Im not touching swaybar. I dont wanna drive al the way without one.
It looks like a beautiful night up at NED so I may take a trip. I will take the swaybar off, pump up front tires to 50psi, and try and run with 1/8 tank gas or less. That should put the car around 3160? Thats without me of course.

Iv had problems hooking this year though but I found out I needed motor mounts and trans mount. So I just did poly motor mounts, trans mount, and for hell of it threw in a new torque arm bushing. Anyone know if bad motor mounts or bad trans mount would have kept me from hooking right?

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

^ oh and another thing to add to that...I weighed the car with the mt et st radials which are 7-8lbs a piece heavier than the hoosiers I think I should probably throw on. Rotational weight says thats what? a 28lb deduction for each rear wheel?
EDIT Actually I think ill just use the MT. The Hoosiers are just about at the wear bars and I really dont wanna be failed on that. Theres a guy up there who knit picks the crap out of everything and hes failed me twice! Well ill post up results if I can hook this thing.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Why won't you remove the front sway bar permanently? I took mine off and didn't notice a bit of difference in turning/handling. Free 15lb weight reduction.

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

+1...

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Really? I didnt remove it because some say the handling sucks and seeing how the track is 130 miles away from me I didnt want any problems. But I was wishing I did take it off because I was so close to 11s. Ill post up results in 12s section.
You didnt notice anything in the handling without front swaybar?

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

You could always disconnect the end links while racing then hook it back up for the drive home. I don't ever realize that my bar isn't on. Just don't take turns going overly fast and its all good.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Heres the results if interested https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second...tion-12-s.html

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

You could always do what BayAreaSS suggested and disconnect the sway bar endlinks. Just go out for a drive with it connected, and then disconnect it and go for a drive right after and see if it is different and if it bothers you enough then leave it on. Without it connected it helps the car launch a little better some say.

Your gettin some decent 60fts with that 10 bolt and 3.23s keep it up!

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

my ws.6 after tub-front end and air removed was 3,480 in street trim. And i'm 225lbs. but,it still went 10.63 n/a @130mph. I'm looking to remove some weight,but not make it look like it.

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

Thats exactly what I did. I disconnected the endlinks and took the car for a drive a few times. I didn't really notice the difference so I took it off. I doubt it'll ever go back on

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

But wouldnt it be bad that the body would roll so much? It dosent mess with anything else on the car? Whats my options for a replacement? I think iv read on here somewhere theres a aftermarket rear sway bar that you can get that makes it feel like you never removed the front? Whats all options?

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

you'll be fine, just remove it. if you dont like how it drives put it back on, but its really not a big deal unless you're tryin to be mario andretti...

studderin

iTrader: (28)

OK, most of, the fast drag guys. even 12s bolt one guys take the front way off. If you have a good rear sway, it kinda tricks you into thinking the rear sway makes it OK. And it is for normal driving, you don't get much body roll. The stiff rear dose that, and it think its fine, it is for driving normal.

BUT when you push the car hard, and do move some weight around. Then your know how its not the same. And you have to be aware of that. I don't know all the handling terms, but the car will slide. Like it doesn't use the tires correctly once it leans, it 3 wheels! So you have to ride it out, and not be tiring to steer into the slide as much as normal, its easy to over correct. The car kinda has a delay you have to wait for.

Its not a nice progression of handling, like the tires will sqeel and let you know. The cars stiff but it slides before normal.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

DJfury how much are lighter are the Midwest bumper supports vs stock?

What are some examples of light weight brakes and shocks for these cars that can handle some street use and are good for dragging on the weekends?

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Not sure man I don't know what they look like but I ordered both.. I haven't got mine yet and won't until I get back from deployment.. when I asked for the weight MWC told me it was light enough not to register on a scale. I would bet the front one weighs about 5-6lbs and the rear equal to or less than that. The good part is they are lighter than Burkharts AND cheaper by far.

Here's a thread with some weights of the stuff that is pretty recent.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...r-support.html

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

they quoted me at 180 a piece and told me they were 6lbs. Not sure why they told me more than others but oh well im liking sporting no support at all at the moment.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

well it might have been because I was spending over $8000 already lol

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Im trying to understand.
So what I get out of this is if im racing around I better be doing it in a straight line? lol Or if I get a good rear sway bar it will correct the front from not having one there?
Also, having a front swaybar has no place in drag racing?