Battery relocate, now will not keep memory.
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Battery relocate, now will not keep memory. I know there is a thread about this somewhere but I cannot find it. The car will clear memory everytime it is shut off like the trip ect but the weird thing is the clock keeps time??? What would cause this? The switch was not turned off either, figured I would get that part out there too.
Standard hook up. positive to switch then to starter. Jumps from starter to main fuse box where factory wire went. Ground to chassis ground. My biggest concern is the computer losing it's "tune" inbetween rounds. Not sure if that is true or not or if open loop it doesn't matter? Thanks for the help.
Standard hook up. positive to switch then to starter. Jumps from starter to main fuse box where factory wire went. Ground to chassis ground. My biggest concern is the computer losing it's "tune" inbetween rounds. Not sure if that is true or not or if open loop it doesn't matter? Thanks for the help.
I just relocated my battery to the back a couple weeks ago, and it's doing the exact same thing. The gauges sweep and the trip resets. What I've gathered from reading a few threads about it, is the battery is weak. I haven't had time to try a new one in mine yet, but hopefully that will fix it. Also, the tune shouldn't get jacked up by this, only the idle.
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You're not talking about when you shut the power switch off are you? Becuase that would be normal.....
It's most likly a poorly grounded battery.. or a bad/not big enough wire. I ran 0 ga welding cable, and never, NEVER had any of these problems. Same 0 ga welding cable, was grounded to a stud that was welded onto the back rollbar plate, so I know it's 100% grounded.
What are you using for a battery, and how old is it? I ran a strait over the counter Duralast gold I bought at the local vato zone... nothing fancy. Idid keep a battery tender on it when the car was sitting in the garage fwiw, and ran an ALT on the car that I know was good as well.
I didn't see any real change in the ALT ga either. The ALT has it's own 2 ga wire, that ran to the back of the car strait to the battery. All the power for the car, ran up the 0 ga to the engine bay, and a bulkhead fitting I put in the hvac plate, so that I had a hot power source inside the car for the nitrous controls and whatnot. All the hot wires in the engine bay, were redone. I ran a piece of the 0 ga down to the starter off the bulkhead terminal, and a piece of the 2 ga over to the fuse box. I also grounded the engine with an extra ground wire, and the motor plate also acted as an additional ground (alum, so it's not the best conductor but an additional ground regardless for the block)
I always see alot of people having problems when the battery gets moved... and can't understand why. If the car's electrical system is up to par and nothing is wrong, and as long as you run a big enough cable, there's no reason that anything shouldn't work. If it worked fine with the battery up front, and now it doesn't with it in the back, something isn't right with the relocation related wiring.
It's most likly a poorly grounded battery.. or a bad/not big enough wire. I ran 0 ga welding cable, and never, NEVER had any of these problems. Same 0 ga welding cable, was grounded to a stud that was welded onto the back rollbar plate, so I know it's 100% grounded.
What are you using for a battery, and how old is it? I ran a strait over the counter Duralast gold I bought at the local vato zone... nothing fancy. Idid keep a battery tender on it when the car was sitting in the garage fwiw, and ran an ALT on the car that I know was good as well.
I didn't see any real change in the ALT ga either. The ALT has it's own 2 ga wire, that ran to the back of the car strait to the battery. All the power for the car, ran up the 0 ga to the engine bay, and a bulkhead fitting I put in the hvac plate, so that I had a hot power source inside the car for the nitrous controls and whatnot. All the hot wires in the engine bay, were redone. I ran a piece of the 0 ga down to the starter off the bulkhead terminal, and a piece of the 2 ga over to the fuse box. I also grounded the engine with an extra ground wire, and the motor plate also acted as an additional ground (alum, so it's not the best conductor but an additional ground regardless for the block)
I always see alot of people having problems when the battery gets moved... and can't understand why. If the car's electrical system is up to par and nothing is wrong, and as long as you run a big enough cable, there's no reason that anything shouldn't work. If it worked fine with the battery up front, and now it doesn't with it in the back, something isn't right with the relocation related wiring.
Mine did the same thing when the battery was getting weak, Im guessing the starter is pulling enough load you are losing the memory.
What size wire did you use, where is it hooked to, clean surface? Factory body to engine ground still in place?
What size wire did you use, where is it hooked to, clean surface? Factory body to engine ground still in place?
Mine is doing the same thing. I ran 2GA for everything, extra grounds and ground strap on the motor to chassie, 2 GA from negative battery to rear frame rail, sanded down to metal and bolted... I am running a small light weight Total Power 1200 battery http://totalpower-racingbatteries.com/batteryspecs.php
With those specs can it be a problem???
With those specs can it be a problem???
ive had this issue for yrs with no luck on finding the issue. it pisses me off. i actually put the battery back up front for a yr in the middle because i was daily driving it at the time and wanted to track my gas mileage. i have grounds everywhere and still having this issue. i used 2ga battery relocation from racewires. same kit in 3 other of my buddies cars with zero issues. there is something else. it will only do it on start up. if i turn the key to run and not crank it the memory is fine, crank it and reset. my last thing i havent tried is swapping the starter (or if i was smart atleast check the pull the starter is using at cranking)
and to add its a brand new red top optima, i tried 4 diff batteries and they all did the same thing. and a brand new alternater that is charging good.
and to add its a brand new red top optima, i tried 4 diff batteries and they all did the same thing. and a brand new alternater that is charging good.
I'll update my efforts. Tried another block to chassis ground...made no difference. Tried another ground from the battery to the chassis...made no difference. Tried another battery...made no difference. This weekend I'm gonna try another ground for the pcm. If that doesn't work then I'm gonna live with it. I have no idea what else it could be. I'm using 0ga and 4ga wire so I should be good there.