Dropping weight off 2000 Formula while keeping the AC
#1
Dropping weight off 2000 Formula while keeping the AC
My car is a street car. I do drag race it. But I also spend alot of time on the street & Texas is a must for AC. The car runs consistant 7.0s on the old setup with FAST 90/90 & Harland Sharp Rockers with 3.42s & PT4000
I upgraded to a FAST102/102 Setup with Stock Modified Rockers with 3.73 Gears & SS4000
Im about to replace my Front Bumper & Figured while I had it off I could cut out some weight while its off.
Idea thus far to loose weight off the front are
Lightweight Battery
Skinnys up front on Strip
?????
?????
Any ideas to lose more weight off the front of the car without doing K-Member & A-Arms
I upgraded to a FAST102/102 Setup with Stock Modified Rockers with 3.73 Gears & SS4000
Im about to replace my Front Bumper & Figured while I had it off I could cut out some weight while its off.
Idea thus far to loose weight off the front are
Lightweight Battery
Skinnys up front on Strip
?????
?????
Any ideas to lose more weight off the front of the car without doing K-Member & A-Arms
#2
Ok, first off I paid $700 for my 98 Z28 and drove it home. So I really didn't mind cutting some metal out of it.
1. Remove front and rear bumper covers and take off the metal bumpers.
2. Take off both front fenders and remove metal inner fenders.
3. Remove front sway bar
3. Remove door bars inside doors. (look up door bar removal)
4. Remove all carpet inside vehicle
5. Remove t-top holders
6. Remove rear seat belts
7. Remove rear bucket seats and back piece
8. Remove rear speakers
9. Remove ALL interior plastics
10. Remove emergency brake mechanism and cable (silicone hole in floor)
11. Remove door panels
12. Remove A.I.R pump
14. Remove traction control unit
15. Remove cruise control unit
16. Install pacesetter LT w/ 3" Y-pipe and bullet muffler
17. Remove metal inside car behind rear sail plastic panels. (below rear speakers by the rear seat)
18. Remove A/C comp, drier, condensor and hoses
19. Remove EGR
20. Remove spare tire and jack
1. Remove front and rear bumper covers and take off the metal bumpers.
2. Take off both front fenders and remove metal inner fenders.
3. Remove front sway bar
3. Remove door bars inside doors. (look up door bar removal)
4. Remove all carpet inside vehicle
5. Remove t-top holders
6. Remove rear seat belts
7. Remove rear bucket seats and back piece
8. Remove rear speakers
9. Remove ALL interior plastics
10. Remove emergency brake mechanism and cable (silicone hole in floor)
11. Remove door panels
12. Remove A.I.R pump
14. Remove traction control unit
15. Remove cruise control unit
16. Install pacesetter LT w/ 3" Y-pipe and bullet muffler
17. Remove metal inside car behind rear sail plastic panels. (below rear speakers by the rear seat)
18. Remove A/C comp, drier, condensor and hoses
19. Remove EGR
20. Remove spare tire and jack
#3
Ok, first off I paid $700 for my 98 Z28 and drove it home. So I really didn't mind cutting some metal out of it.
1. Remove front and rear bumper covers and take off the metal bumpers.
2. Take off both front fenders and remove metal inner fenders.
3. Remove front sway bar
3. Remove door bars inside doors. (look up door bar removal)
4. Remove all carpet inside vehicle
5. Remove t-top holders
6. Remove rear seat belts
7. Remove rear bucket seats and back piece
8. Remove rear speakers
9. Remove ALL interior plastics
10. Remove emergency brake mechanism and cable (silicone hole in floor)
11. Remove door panels
12. Remove A.I.R pump
14. Remove traction control unit
15. Remove cruise control unit
16. Install pacesetter LT w/ 3" Y-pipe and bullet muffler
17. Remove metal inside car behind rear sail plastic panels. (below rear speakers by the rear seat)
18. Remove A/C comp, drier, condensor and hoses
19. Remove EGR
20. Remove spare tire and jack
1. Remove front and rear bumper covers and take off the metal bumpers.
2. Take off both front fenders and remove metal inner fenders.
3. Remove front sway bar
3. Remove door bars inside doors. (look up door bar removal)
4. Remove all carpet inside vehicle
5. Remove t-top holders
6. Remove rear seat belts
7. Remove rear bucket seats and back piece
8. Remove rear speakers
9. Remove ALL interior plastics
10. Remove emergency brake mechanism and cable (silicone hole in floor)
11. Remove door panels
12. Remove A.I.R pump
14. Remove traction control unit
15. Remove cruise control unit
16. Install pacesetter LT w/ 3" Y-pipe and bullet muffler
17. Remove metal inside car behind rear sail plastic panels. (below rear speakers by the rear seat)
18. Remove A/C comp, drier, condensor and hoses
19. Remove EGR
20. Remove spare tire and jack
This is all great but I think if you read the OP's post, he doesnt want to lose AC and most of these mods are for a drag only car. I dont think you are going to want to drive your car around town with zero carpet, no door panels, no door bars of some sort unless you have cage, etc. What he is trying to accomplish and what you posted are two different scenarios.
To the OP, id read around in some of the builds on here as many have good weight reduction ideas that are streetable and wont leave your car lookin like its been thru the crusher if you end up in an accident. Id def do lightweight carpet or ozite, remove backseats, racing seats like kirkey or some sort, drill some 3'' holes in the fender braces, lightweight battery, aftermarket exhaust with bullet mufflers and look into other suspension parts that could help. If you decide to put a cage in it then you can start cutting a lot more out as well to make up for the cage weight and you wont have to worry about the rigidity as much then.
#4
big stuff and all the little 1-3 pound things add up, get a bucket and look around the car when you working on it and put all the little things in it. when your done it will be 10-40pounds of things your friend helping you would say your stupid for removing that then you fill that bucket 20 more times when you work on another area of the car.
washer bottle, the lines, and wiring. 10# with fuild
remove the metal horn bracket (drill a hole somewhere and mount them on the stud with the nut direct)
sway bar. and the brackets for the mount. I see alot of cars that just take the bar off and leave the black metal brackets the pivot bushing mount too.
remove lower the plastics in the front,
cruise 5#?
traction control 8-9?#
you still have heat?
fog lights,3-5#s?
and drill the brackets off the headlight brackets (you can sell the fog lights for $50-75, alot of them get bent and crashes guy look for them) and the fog light wiring
trim the lower air dam ends off, so you just have the middle thicker part. (5bolts) do this with removing the lower plastics. (keep the alt splash shield if its still mounted low and you drive in the rain)
cut that flap off the front bumper that went to the bumper support 2-3#s and make the front end less saggy.
remove the wheel well liners. (I think chris1313 said they were 11?) If you dont run skinny tires, trim them and just run the back of them to keep rocks out of the fenders. skinnes dont kick up rocks, wider tires will, a rock and crack the door when you open it too.
Trim the bottom of the air dam metal 2-5#s
take the fenders off, cut the metal under the fenders. 10#s
cut the frame horns off 5#- 7 if you angle trim them back
Pin on hood save about 50 pounds
ABS, 13-15, probably under 20 with the wiring, and making the lines simply... If you want to keep it, take the heavy cast iron bracket off thats under the block( 2 bolts, I think 2 rubber mounts or somthing?) and bolts to the frame (4bolts), and put a bar of alum. ( 1/8 x 1 you will have to put a little twist in it) mount that with one bolt in the frame and one in the ABS block. Its still strong with all the lines, and a lot lighter
thats like 40-55#s for free in front of the rad.
got more pics and how do do this in my build thread
washer bottle, the lines, and wiring. 10# with fuild
remove the metal horn bracket (drill a hole somewhere and mount them on the stud with the nut direct)
sway bar. and the brackets for the mount. I see alot of cars that just take the bar off and leave the black metal brackets the pivot bushing mount too.
remove lower the plastics in the front,
cruise 5#?
traction control 8-9?#
you still have heat?
fog lights,3-5#s?
and drill the brackets off the headlight brackets (you can sell the fog lights for $50-75, alot of them get bent and crashes guy look for them) and the fog light wiring
trim the lower air dam ends off, so you just have the middle thicker part. (5bolts) do this with removing the lower plastics. (keep the alt splash shield if its still mounted low and you drive in the rain)
cut that flap off the front bumper that went to the bumper support 2-3#s and make the front end less saggy.
remove the wheel well liners. (I think chris1313 said they were 11?) If you dont run skinny tires, trim them and just run the back of them to keep rocks out of the fenders. skinnes dont kick up rocks, wider tires will, a rock and crack the door when you open it too.
Trim the bottom of the air dam metal 2-5#s
take the fenders off, cut the metal under the fenders. 10#s
cut the frame horns off 5#- 7 if you angle trim them back
Pin on hood save about 50 pounds
ABS, 13-15, probably under 20 with the wiring, and making the lines simply... If you want to keep it, take the heavy cast iron bracket off thats under the block( 2 bolts, I think 2 rubber mounts or somthing?) and bolts to the frame (4bolts), and put a bar of alum. ( 1/8 x 1 you will have to put a little twist in it) mount that with one bolt in the frame and one in the ABS block. Its still strong with all the lines, and a lot lighter
thats like 40-55#s for free in front of the rad.
got more pics and how do do this in my build thread
Last edited by studderin; 06-26-2011 at 07:10 PM.