Manual Brake Conversion ????
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: College Station TX
Manual Brake Conversion ???? I am building a drag car. This car will never see the street. I am doing a Manual Brake Conversion Kit. Can I just bypass the ABS and run all new lines with a manual prop valve in line to the rear. Any help would be great.
You can run all new lines, with no prop valve at all if you use the proper master. The one that Burkhart sells is set up correctly, so that the prop. valve isn't even needed.
I did this with my car.. ran all new 3/16 lines thru the entire car, one line to the back, Tee'd it on the body out to the caliper's (2 flex lines, that drop down off the body to the rear) and the front, I ran a single line down to the drivers side, put a T fiting on that, one flex line to the caliper, then ran teh 2nd along the k member over to the other side. Done deal.
The manual master, front and rear drag brakes, and redoing all the lines in the car netted about a 170 lb weight loss, all together from what was on the car stock, fwiw.
I did this with my car.. ran all new 3/16 lines thru the entire car, one line to the back, Tee'd it on the body out to the caliper's (2 flex lines, that drop down off the body to the rear) and the front, I ran a single line down to the drivers side, put a T fiting on that, one flex line to the caliper, then ran teh 2nd along the k member over to the other side. Done deal.
The manual master, front and rear drag brakes, and redoing all the lines in the car netted about a 170 lb weight loss, all together from what was on the car stock, fwiw.
I have personally seen JL's set up and like he said, if you buy the right Brake master, its set up correctly. Unless your running braking contest I would think its a non issue.
Prop valve is for fine tuning. If you add one to your system, mark it with a marker, that way you can always double check that the valve didn't move b4 you make your first pass.
One you start redistributing weight, you may need a fine tune. Brake pressure sending unit, along with a guage, installed on one of the brake lines is helpful.
One you start redistributing weight, you may need a fine tune. Brake pressure sending unit, along with a guage, installed on one of the brake lines is helpful.
The brake pressure.. I haven't found needed unless you're footbraking for a bracket class, trying to get the right brake pressure for staging a turbo car, etc.
if you're leaving off a transbrake and don't need it to stage, it won't really do you alot of good.
The prop. valve, if you need the fine tuning then yes, by all means put one in. If you are going to drive on the street with a skinny front tire it may be a good idea too. Track only car I haven't found a need yet. I used to be able to bring my car from 142+ down quick enough so the first turnoff was almost an option..... always had PLENTY of braking room even at lvd, and their shutdown is pretty short compared to alot of places.
if you're leaving off a transbrake and don't need it to stage, it won't really do you alot of good.
The prop. valve, if you need the fine tuning then yes, by all means put one in. If you are going to drive on the street with a skinny front tire it may be a good idea too. Track only car I haven't found a need yet. I used to be able to bring my car from 142+ down quick enough so the first turnoff was almost an option..... always had PLENTY of braking room even at lvd, and their shutdown is pretty short compared to alot of places.
I look at it like this. If you've got roughly the same brake pressure on every first pass you make b4 the fluid heats up, you know your brakes should be in good working order.
It's a safety thing. If you get past the traps, hit your brakes, and all the line pressure goes to the fronts, you'll lock up with skinny tires.
It's a safety thing. If you get past the traps, hit your brakes, and all the line pressure goes to the fronts, you'll lock up with skinny tires.
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I've heard that before, but honestly I don't know anyone that gets on the brakes that hard... if you're going fast enough to have to do that you probably need a parachute.
Like I said, from 140+ I never got on the brakes hard, eased onto them and never, never felt like the car wouldn't stop, and it wasn't even close to light @ 3350 lbs.
Like I said, from 140+ I never got on the brakes hard, eased onto them and never, never felt like the car wouldn't stop, and it wasn't even close to light @ 3350 lbs.
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Verdad Gallardo Not sure how I would manage to do that.... 
If you have a manual master cyl in the car, it's going to distribute the pressure pretty even, if you double the pressure to the front you're doing the same thing to the rear, and honestly, if you are hitting the brakes that hard, something is wrong with the operator, or someone crossed the centerline in front of you in that case you may be screwed regardless if the guy comes bouncing off the wall or the like.
If you have a manual master cyl in the car, it's going to distribute the pressure pretty even, if you double the pressure to the front you're doing the same thing to the rear, and honestly, if you are hitting the brakes that hard, something is wrong with the operator, or someone crossed the centerline in front of you in that case you may be screwed regardless if the guy comes bouncing off the wall or the like. 
If you use the Strange Master cylinder that Burkhart sells, a manual prop valve isn't needed but can be installed if you feel it to be necessary. I don't use one myself and have never had an issue.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: College Station TX
Huh? I have a Wilwood on my rear brake line so it doesn't receive full pressure from the master. The front brakes are straight to the master. I dd my car this way.