Battery relocation - Won't activate the starter - help
Battery relocation - Won't activate the starter - help I relocated the battery to the trunk and have full power to all accessories, but when I turn the key...nothing.... no clicking or anything. I'll detail everything so you guys can help me figure out what I missed, or need to check. I assume it's a grounding issue??
Battery in back is fully charge Optima.
Ground from Battery going to Body panel by trunk latch (prob should be ground to frame?)
Positive 2 gauge going from Battery to cutoff switch.
Positive 2 gauge going from Cuttoff switch to Alternator
Positive 2 gauge going from Cuttoff switch to Post by fuse box (should this go to starter first?)
Positive 2 gauge going from post by fuse box to starter
Stock ground from Engine block removed from stock battery and grounded to Frame.
Starter has 13.8 volts to it. All accessories/lights/fuel pump work, turn key and nothing.
Thinking it is a grounding issue I took a set of jumper cables and hooked one end to negative post on battery. Other end I connected to various points on the frame rail, suspension, engine block, Starter, and frame where engine grounded. I still don't get any clicking of the starter (tested starter and it's fine). Any suggestions?
I also at the same time, put new front aerospace brakes on, new shocks, upper A-arms, converted over to a manual rack, Pulled off power steering, added electric water pump (not hooked up yet), ported 102 fast intake, and TB. This has been over a several month process so I guess it's possible It's something else stupid that I did while putting these things on.... But can't see any of that affecting anything. I didn't touch anything inside the car.
Any suggestions?
Battery in back is fully charge Optima.
Ground from Battery going to Body panel by trunk latch (prob should be ground to frame?)
Positive 2 gauge going from Battery to cutoff switch.
Positive 2 gauge going from Cuttoff switch to Alternator
Positive 2 gauge going from Cuttoff switch to Post by fuse box (should this go to starter first?)
Positive 2 gauge going from post by fuse box to starter
Stock ground from Engine block removed from stock battery and grounded to Frame.
Starter has 13.8 volts to it. All accessories/lights/fuel pump work, turn key and nothing.
Thinking it is a grounding issue I took a set of jumper cables and hooked one end to negative post on battery. Other end I connected to various points on the frame rail, suspension, engine block, Starter, and frame where engine grounded. I still don't get any clicking of the starter (tested starter and it's fine). Any suggestions?
I also at the same time, put new front aerospace brakes on, new shocks, upper A-arms, converted over to a manual rack, Pulled off power steering, added electric water pump (not hooked up yet), ported 102 fast intake, and TB. This has been over a several month process so I guess it's possible It's something else stupid that I did while putting these things on.... But can't see any of that affecting anything. I didn't touch anything inside the car.
Any suggestions?
I would have run the positive to the starter first then to the Fuse block. However I don't think this is your starting issue.
are you getting 12v on the purple wire at the starter when you attempt to crank it?
are you getting 12v on the purple wire at the starter when you attempt to crank it?
I'll test that tonight. But I assume it doesn't. I put a jumper cable from Negative on Battery and hooked onto the starter housing. It did nothing. I would assume it would have fired at that point.
You could pop the cover off of the relay and manually actuate it. If the car cranks then you know there is a problem with the ignition switch, BCM, or VATS. If it still does not crank then it's a power or ground issue to the starter.
