radial vs. slick on the street
radial vs. slick on the street im currently running a 28x10.5 hoosier slick. i can haze the tires at 60mph on the street. would i be better off switching to a hoosier dr for the street? will a 325/50/15 fit a stock width rearend f-body?
Yep. I recently installed 15x10, 7.5 bs Weld RTS wheels and MT 325/50/15 drs on my car with a stock width rear. You'll have to roll the fender lips and get out the BFH for the inner fenders.
Last edited by ozws6; Aug 25, 2011 at 12:40 PM. Reason: typo
Drag Radials will have even a harder time hooking on colder, non prepped surface like the street. Especially with summer winding down, the pavement temps get colder and all tires tend to have issues.
You may stand a chance, but if you properly heat up both tires, the slick should win out but again how many street miles and heat cycles on them. The could be to the point that unless you do a good burnout.
Either way, be it a stop or roll your going to have issues with that power level. I am from CT and I know where some good spots are and all of them have their issues. Best people could hope for is a "organized" street race but those tend to be few and far between.
You may stand a chance, but if you properly heat up both tires, the slick should win out but again how many street miles and heat cycles on them. The could be to the point that unless you do a good burnout.
Either way, be it a stop or roll your going to have issues with that power level. I am from CT and I know where some good spots are and all of them have their issues. Best people could hope for is a "organized" street race but those tend to be few and far between.
not what i wanted to hear, how are guys hooking on the street with big power cars? i had the tires at about 18psi and did a nice 50mph burnout prior. i guess ill just try loosening the front shocks up and hope it hooks. anyone have any experience with the hoosier d/rs? i've been doing a ton of street drving lately and am not really a fan on running bias-plys around town/highway.
you shouldnt have an issue hooking, a slick tired car will perform much better on the street. why are your tired aired up to 18psi? thats too much for even normal driving.
air them down to 10ish or 10.5 so once u do your burnout they will be at 11 and you will be good to go
air them down to 10ish or 10.5 so once u do your burnout they will be at 11 and you will be good to go
I hooked just as good with my ET streets (the cheater slicks) on stock rims as I did with my Hoosier full slicks on stock rims. I'm not making the power you are, but from a dig I still spun pretty good until the top of first, two long thick black marks.
My buddy hooked much better with his MT drag radials on a 15" rim. 315s 10" wide.
MT dradials perform.
*I'm not saying a radial is better than a slick, or just as good... Both sets I had were used and performed equally.
My buddy hooked much better with his MT drag radials on a 15" rim. 315s 10" wide.
MT dradials perform.
*I'm not saying a radial is better than a slick, or just as good... Both sets I had were used and performed equally.
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you shouldnt have an issue hooking, a slick tired car will perform much better on the street. why are your tired aired up to 18psi? thats too much for even normal driving.
air them down to 10ish or 10.5 so once u do your burnout they will be at 11 and you will be good to go
air them down to 10ish or 10.5 so once u do your burnout they will be at 11 and you will be good to go
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First I have to say, I have never tried to run a 9 second car like yours on the street. I have had the pleasure to working with mid 10 second cars that could make a clean pass on the street. For them it was all about the soft hit lower stall converter than they would otherwise run at the track. If you have programmable ignition, you might pull the timing out down low to drop the power levels a little for launch. I would also imagine you would do better with more active rear suspension settings and looser in the front for the street.
First I have to say, I have never tried to run a 9 second car like yours on the street. I have had the pleasure to working with mid 10 second cars that could make a clean pass on the street. For them it was all about the soft hit lower stall converter than they would otherwise run at the track. If you have programmable ignition, you might pull the timing out down low to drop the power levels a little for launch. I would also imagine you would do better with more active rear suspension settings and looser in the front for the street.
I must be wild dealing with a car where traction is a problem 100-200 feet out. I am always in awe of the heavy hitters at the street car shootouts. They get out of the groove at any time and let the excitement begin. I think I would like to give that a go.
Last edited by speedtigger; Aug 25, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
You forgot 1 important thing, it all depends on the driver learning his car and what rpm to leave at. Ive seen people on street tires hook just as good as someone with DR's with about same power level. P.S. Im the guy on dr's lol
From a roll I hook better with MT 275/40-17 radial than I do with my M&H 26x11.5-15 slicks. From a dead stop the slicks spin but move me forward, the radials will go up in smoke and I won't move forward much at all. I can haze my slicks pretty damn good from a 50 mph roll while going sideways. The radials hook and go but I do run a 6 speed. This is on non prepped roads just normal every day streets while cruising around. There isn't too many things more fun than laying down a huge set of black tracks from a roll though lol.
From a roll I hook better with MT 275/40-17 radial than I do with my M&H 26x11.5-15 slicks. From a dead stop the slicks spin but move me forward, the radials will go up in smoke and I won't move forward much at all. I can haze my slicks pretty damn good from a 50 mph roll while going sideways. The radials hook and go but I do run a 6 speed. This is on non prepped roads just normal every day streets while cruising around. There isn't too many things more fun than laying down a huge set of black tracks from a roll though lol.
I ran a 26x10 Hoosier on the street and doing a burnout, bringing it forward 10-12 ft and then backing up in my tracks, It would still not dead hook but would move forward while spinning but not hazing the tires. If I prep the street with a 50/50 mixture of trackbite and denatured alcohol and do the same process of burning out. It would dead hook on a 175 or 200 shot. This was a H/C/I car that ran mid 11's on motor.
i don't necessarily look for a dead hook on the street, but a scenario where it is a very controlled spin where the tires don't blow away. The kind of spin where you might lose no more than a tenth out of the 60 foot. That is doable into the 11 second range cars on a good surface.