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radial vs. slick on the street

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Old 08-29-2011, 10:29 PM
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I have a 28x11.50 MT ET street tube tire on the back of my SS, it tends to float on the street like the rear end is bouncing back and forth and the car is all over the road.

I went back to my ET DR and that problem was gone, the slick was nice hooked better, but the floating @ highway speeds was not cool @ all. Only got worse the faster you go
Old 08-30-2011, 12:40 PM
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I have done lots of street racing and i can tell you my 325 drs hook way better than slicks. I have tried both tires in different situations and the drag radial always does better.

Here is a video on slicks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SWjgWOW1BA

Here is a video on drag radials @ 7:35
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wLqRJo9scM
Old 08-30-2011, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
I can tell you that we have no issue making cars hook at your power level. A lot of that has to do with tire pressure, but we do make A LOT of test passes on the street too so we know the cars well and how to make them work.
^ This

Here is a local car that has no problem getting down on the street. 145+ Trap speed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il1SCZ2C1tI
Old 08-30-2011, 04:45 PM
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All you guys that know somebody who hooks a 1000whp car on the street are not helping me. I know its possible.... But how? Thanks for the vids man I'm going to the track one more on the full slicks and then I'm going to swap to a 325 hoosier dr and maybe swap to 3.08's too
Old 08-30-2011, 05:50 PM
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I would have to think that achieving and holding maximum front end lift would be key. I would also think that equal weight on both rear tires would be crucial too. Do you have a solid anti roll bar in back?
Old 08-30-2011, 06:37 PM
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Yessir, Wolfe antiroll bar and front shocks set at 2.
Old 08-30-2011, 07:19 PM
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Does the car have a lot of rake to it since its probably on 28" tires?
Old 08-30-2011, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1curt
All you guys that know somebody who hooks a 1000whp car on the street are not helping me. I know its possible.... But how? Thanks for the vids man I'm going to the track one more on the full slicks and then I'm going to swap to a 325 hoosier dr and maybe swap to 3.08's too
Your gonna love those Hoosiers man. They will solve all your problems. Start with 20psi in them, then go to 18, so on on. I run mine at 22-25, but your making a hundred more horses than me easy.
Old 08-31-2011, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1curt
All you guys that know somebody who hooks a 1000whp car on the street are not helping me. I know its possible.... But how? Thanks for the vids man I'm going to the track one more on the full slicks and then I'm going to swap to a 325 hoosier dr and maybe swap to 3.08's too
They already told you your running too much air pressure, running a drag radial may help some but typically they are worse on the street because a radial won't recover from a break in traction like a slick tire does. Proper suspension tuning will make the car hook far better than constantly swapping tires trying to find the "right" one. Decide what you want to run it on and then go from there.
Old 08-31-2011, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1curt
All you guys that know somebody who hooks a 1000whp car on the street are not helping me. I know its possible.... But how? Thanks for the vids man I'm going to the track one more on the full slicks and then I'm going to swap to a 325 hoosier dr and maybe swap to 3.08's too
Just keep in mind Turbo cars and Automatic transmission cars are a whole different situation. The tires is not nearly hit as hard and the power rolls in, if not limited due to 2/3 step off the line.

Some people use a very large tire/slick, some race only on a prepped street surface, or peddle the car and try not to nail it off the line. Most M6 guys ***** foot off the line and hope when they roll into it they dont blow the tires off and hope the back half can make up for the weak holeshot.
Old 08-31-2011, 09:30 AM
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You just need to talk to Madman then. No real streetracers are going to give out there secrets on making a suspension work. If you don't have the knowledge to make it work then you have to pay someone that does to set the suspension the way it needs to be to hook.

Just having all the suspension pieces in the world does you no good if its not set right.
Old 08-31-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 87silverbullet
If you don't have the knowledge to make it work then you have to pay someone that does to set the suspension the way it needs to be to hook.
Test, Test, Test and Test some more.

Instant center, LCA angle, Tire pressure.

There are so many things to play with.

While I will say Madman is the man. I don't think you need to pay someone to get a 700hp car to hook on the street.
Old 08-31-2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1curt
All you guys that know somebody who hooks a 1000whp car on the street are not helping me. I know its possible.... But how? Thanks for the vids man I'm going to the track one more on the full slicks and then I'm going to swap to a 325 hoosier dr and maybe swap to 3.08's too
wow if you are only running the times (mid 9's) that were in your sig a few days ago and are making 1000whp I would light that thing on fire!

you seem like you still doubt that it cant be done. I have done it personally and I have told you test, test, test and run LOW air pressure. I hope I come up against a lot of stubborn people out there like you that are too stubborn to get their car to hook, those type of people are easy money.

Too bad you arent in MI, cause I would love to bring out MY car and run you. I know its hard to trust what someone says on the internet since you dont know them or their experience level. You need to take some of the advice here:

cliffnotes:

-keep the slicks, mickey or hoosier (I prefer et drag) but make sure its a stiff sidewall
-no need for extreme prep, window washer fluid works fell and its cheap (what I use) I kinda prefer it over VHT due to the fact you can throw a lot down for cheap and really let the tires spin easily (I do a 3rd gear burnout, but kinda have to with a RVMB TH400 anyway)
-very large burnout.
-low pressure. no more than 11.5-12 on a cold tire

Last edited by ThreeHonks; 08-31-2011 at 07:56 PM.
Old 09-01-2011, 04:24 AM
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I don't think he's asking how to hook from a dig? Seems like he just wants to know what tires works great for general traction while driving around. Not everyone only takes there car out to race it.
Old 09-01-2011, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by c0ncEpT
While I will say Madman is the man. I don't think you need to pay someone to get a 700hp car to hook on the street.
When you don't know what you're doing and you won't go out and test on the street then you need to pay somebody to do it for you then.
Old 09-01-2011, 11:36 AM
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I borrowed a set of 275/40/17 mt radials from a buddy when I went to the dyno (770/755) and made a few pulls from 40 on the way home in 2nd gear w/4.10s and the progressive turned off and they stuck like a mother f*+#*r. I liked them much better from a roll than my 28/10.5/15s. I don't do much of any roll racing anymore but if I did I would go with a radial
Old 09-02-2011, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ThreeHonks
wow if you are only running the times (mid 9's) that were in your sig a few days ago and are making 1000whp I would light that thing on fire!

you seem like you still doubt that it cant be done. I have done it personally and I have told you test, test, test and run LOW air pressure. I hope I come up against a lot of stubborn people out there like you that are too stubborn to get their car to hook, those type of people are easy money.

Too bad you arent in MI, cause I would love to bring out MY car and run you. I know its hard to trust what someone says on the internet since you dont know them or their experience level. You need to take some of the advice here:

cliffnotes:

-keep the slicks, mickey or hoosier (I prefer et drag) but make sure its a stiff sidewall
-no need for extreme prep, window washer fluid works fell and its cheap (what I use) I kinda prefer it over VHT due to the fact you can throw a lot down for cheap and really let the tires spin easily (I do a 3rd gear burnout, but kinda have to with a RVMB TH400 anyway)
-very large burnout.
-low pressure. no more than 11.5-12 on a cold tire
My experience exactly. No track around here, stictly unprepped pavement racing. Funny how some of these guys claiming DR's are good. I found that they are crap. I only tried 325/50 MT's though and I'm not throwing down a 1000 to the wheels. I run 28x11 et drags and can recover by peddling & not throw a race.

Question: Why stiff wall? I always thought as much wrinkle as possible was best?
Old 09-02-2011, 11:39 AM
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I don't condone track racing but I have driven it to a track (500 miles) The car is set up for soft launches 2.75 gear turbo 400.


This is how much my tires are "wrapping" on a 1.4 sixty, would a stiff wall do better on the street?


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Old 09-02-2011, 05:38 PM
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ive always been told the stiff is better due to the weight of these cars.
here is my car on a normal sidewall
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and on a stiff sidewall
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ive been 1.44 60's on both but the stiffs feel so much more stable on the track and street
Old 09-02-2011, 08:37 PM
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If you don't mind me asking what tires are those in the 2nd 2 pics?


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