radial vs. slick on the street
#21
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i would never expect it to hook from a dig. im talking 3rd gear 60-160 pull and spinning. and im not sure how you guys prep a highway
i was out last night with the front shocks real loose and the tires at 14 psi and it would still spin easy, think its just making a lot more power with this cool air
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#22
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i would never expect it to hook from a dig. im talking 3rd gear 60-160 pull and spinning. and im not sure how you guys prep a highway
i was out last night with the front shocks real loose and the tires at 14 psi and it would still spin easy, think its just making a lot more power with this cool air
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#23
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i wish some of you guys with the small tire cars (28x10.5) that cant hook were out here in the detroit area.
Everycar that I seem to get a race against I know is going to hook, no one has a huge problem with setting up their cars really. Its only 11sec and slower guys who complain about not being able to hook. Seems like 99% of the problem is user error
Everycar that I seem to get a race against I know is going to hook, no one has a huge problem with setting up their cars really. Its only 11sec and slower guys who complain about not being able to hook. Seems like 99% of the problem is user error
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If you want to hook on the street it takes some effort and some compromises, if you arent willing to drop tire pressure to the appropriate level then forget about it.
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let me ask how fast your car is then? a mid/low 10 sec. car is a piece of cake to hook on the street. a mid/low 9 sec. car is a different story, im going to go to 14psi but thats it, i dont really like the idea of 160mph on any lower psi but thats just me.
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You need to talk to boosted GT on here then. He has a low 8 sec Mustang that hooks on the street. The only thing about it though he makes test hits over and over again to get his car to hook.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFHfJ...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFHfJ...eature=related
#27
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You need to talk to boosted GT on here then. He has a low 8 sec Mustang that hooks on the street. The only thing about it though he makes test hits over and over again to get his car to hook.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFHfJ...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFHfJ...eature=related
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I love my M&H 325/45/17's on the street. I have run Hoosier radial, Nitto radials, and Hoosier 27" tall slicks and the M&H radials have hooked the best from a roll thus far. Dr. Pepper burnouts seem to help before the race.
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One thing you guys a MT DR is NOTHING compared to the Hoosier DR.
The hoosier DR may as well be a slick with all the advantages a radial has to offer. Not as loose on top end, more mph, less rolling resistance...etc. etc.
Everyguy that doesn't run the Hoosier in the RS and X275 classes complain about it because it is so good that they say it's unfair. Its a 40 treadwear tire so I wouldn't run it on the street just for the fact you'll never get more than 1k 2k out of them. They aren't legal for street use anyways just DOT class approved.
All that said, I will and never would run another DR aside from the Hoosier from now on. I may try the M&H one day, but I don't wanna mess up a good thing.
The hoosier DR may as well be a slick with all the advantages a radial has to offer. Not as loose on top end, more mph, less rolling resistance...etc. etc.
Everyguy that doesn't run the Hoosier in the RS and X275 classes complain about it because it is so good that they say it's unfair. Its a 40 treadwear tire so I wouldn't run it on the street just for the fact you'll never get more than 1k 2k out of them. They aren't legal for street use anyways just DOT class approved.
All that said, I will and never would run another DR aside from the Hoosier from now on. I may try the M&H one day, but I don't wanna mess up a good thing.
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One thing you guys a MT DR is NOTHING compared to the Hoosier DR.
The hoosier DR may as well be a slick with all the advantages a radial has to offer. Not as loose on top end, more mph, less rolling resistance...etc. etc.
Everyguy that doesn't run the Hoosier in the RS and X275 classes complain about it because it is so good that they say it's unfair. Its a 40 treadwear tire so I wouldn't run it on the street just for the fact you'll never get more than 1k 2k out of them. They aren't legal for street use anyways just DOT class approved.
All that said, I will and never would run another DR aside from the Hoosier from now on. I may try the M&H one day, but I don't wanna mess up a good thing.
The hoosier DR may as well be a slick with all the advantages a radial has to offer. Not as loose on top end, more mph, less rolling resistance...etc. etc.
Everyguy that doesn't run the Hoosier in the RS and X275 classes complain about it because it is so good that they say it's unfair. Its a 40 treadwear tire so I wouldn't run it on the street just for the fact you'll never get more than 1k 2k out of them. They aren't legal for street use anyways just DOT class approved.
All that said, I will and never would run another DR aside from the Hoosier from now on. I may try the M&H one day, but I don't wanna mess up a good thing.
I ran a set on my car, primarily street car, and got around 1200 hard miles on them. Not ideal, but they do work well.
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I can tell you that we have no issue making cars hook at your power level. A lot of that has to do with tire pressure, but we do make A LOT of test passes on the street too so we know the cars well and how to make them work.
what exact tire is on your car? I run a stiffwall 28x10.5 et drag and never really experienced too much sway at 140+ mph to where I felt it was unsafe. with my car I run my tires at 11.5psi. Try it there and just do a launch and a good burnout and see how it works. We run other cars as low as 10 flat psi.
edit: take my word for it or not, but you really need to get that tire pressure lower and do a good burnout. practice makes perfect