Hi...I am I looking for 10's
08-30-2011, 12:02 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Hi...I am I looking for 10's I decided to take my f-body of the street and keep it a weekend and track car...I want the car to be able to hit 10.xx 1/4 and be somewhat comfortable so im going to be rolling stock-ish weight.(seats AC) So far best is 11.7...I want this car to be Fastttt....when i want it.....How does this sound? P.S sorry for the typo in the title!! LOL
H/C/I M6 438 rwhp Prc heads 224 228 cam around 11.x to 1 comp.
Tick rebuild t-56 and Master
Textralia oz700x
Pst 3.5 inch aluminum Ds
BMR ds loop
Moser 12bolt 3.73
Edelbrock tq arm
Edelbrock lca
Edelbrock panhard I got a deal on some Edelbrock stuff lol
Coming soon
325/50/15 M/T et streets rear....
Thinkin about a 75shot wet plate with c16 in a stanalone (for saftys sake, plus i know im gonna up the shot until its time for a new shortblock)
I was thinking about going to SICK SPEED in Goshen NY for the tune and what ever else I cant accomplish or break lol Any word?
How am I lookin guys?
H/C/I M6 438 rwhp Prc heads 224 228 cam around 11.x to 1 comp.
Tick rebuild t-56 and Master
Textralia oz700x
Pst 3.5 inch aluminum Ds
BMR ds loop
Moser 12bolt 3.73
Edelbrock tq arm
Edelbrock lca
Edelbrock panhard I got a deal on some Edelbrock stuff lol
Coming soon
325/50/15 M/T et streets rear....
Thinkin about a 75shot wet plate with c16 in a stanalone (for saftys sake, plus i know im gonna up the shot until its time for a new shortblock)
I was thinking about going to SICK SPEED in Goshen NY for the tune and what ever else I cant accomplish or break lol Any word?
How am I lookin guys?
08-30-2011, 12:08 PM
#2
You have some work ahead of you.
Get ready to spend some money racing the T-56 regardless of what shop you use.
Trying not to take weight out of it is going to hurt you, and hittting hard off the line will be a requirement and on a drag radial its going to be hard as you really need as much as you can get with a non optimal rear gear ratio, and with lets say 150 shot ontop of the H/C set up, your going to be breaking parts or blowing off the tires.
Been down this path and I am sure there will be people here to help you but to be honest, you gotta be realistic and decide what you could live without to ditch some weight.
Also your going to need a cage which even with the lightest ones is going to add. So if your not willing to put one in (swingouts or not) thats a big consideration.
Just my opinion but I am sure you will get others.
Get ready to spend some money racing the T-56 regardless of what shop you use.
Trying not to take weight out of it is going to hurt you, and hittting hard off the line will be a requirement and on a drag radial its going to be hard as you really need as much as you can get with a non optimal rear gear ratio, and with lets say 150 shot ontop of the H/C set up, your going to be breaking parts or blowing off the tires.
Been down this path and I am sure there will be people here to help you but to be honest, you gotta be realistic and decide what you could live without to ditch some weight.
Also your going to need a cage which even with the lightest ones is going to add. So if your not willing to put one in (swingouts or not) thats a big consideration.
Just my opinion but I am sure you will get others.
08-30-2011, 01:00 PM
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Alright thanks for the replys....Its just going to be a fast weekend toy with a few passes a year. I am saving up for an iron build so I am expecting to replace the whole long block with when its broke ...You think a 150 on top of the hci will do? I know thats rough for the stock bottom...that should like 550rwhp+ and im sure the TQ will be un-godly compared to anything im used too (400 rwtq now) Weighed the car empty with 1/4th tank super it came in roughly 3480 might have taken off weight with some parts?...Thanks again
08-30-2011, 01:05 PM
#6
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You have some work ahead of you.
Get ready to spend some money racing the T-56 regardless of what shop you use.
Trying not to take weight out of it is going to hurt you, and hittting hard off the line will be a requirement and on a drag radial its going to be hard as you really need as much as you can get with a non optimal rear gear ratio, and with lets say 150 shot ontop of the H/C set up, your going to be breaking parts or blowing off the tires.
Been down this path and I am sure there will be people here to help you but to be honest, you gotta be realistic and decide what you could live without to ditch some weight.
Also your going to need a cage which even with the lightest ones is going to add. So if your not willing to put one in (swingouts or not) thats a big consideration.
Just my opinion but I am sure you will get others.
Get ready to spend some money racing the T-56 regardless of what shop you use.
Trying not to take weight out of it is going to hurt you, and hittting hard off the line will be a requirement and on a drag radial its going to be hard as you really need as much as you can get with a non optimal rear gear ratio, and with lets say 150 shot ontop of the H/C set up, your going to be breaking parts or blowing off the tires.
Been down this path and I am sure there will be people here to help you but to be honest, you gotta be realistic and decide what you could live without to ditch some weight.
Also your going to need a cage which even with the lightest ones is going to add. So if your not willing to put one in (swingouts or not) thats a big consideration.
Just my opinion but I am sure you will get others.
08-30-2011, 01:18 PM
#7
IMO far better compounds, as well as more choices and more "give" which helps since a Manual has not inherent slip like a automatic has. A Bias ply can recover, a drag radial cannot. Once you blow off the tires, you lost the race.
But you also must keep in mind that the more street miles and heat cycles a ET Street Bias-ply sees, it makes it harder to keep sticky. So its like a "wanting to have your cake, and eat it" scenario and in a lot of cases you can get a 10 second slip in track configuration, but for the street, your probably going to be much slower.
But you also must keep in mind that the more street miles and heat cycles a ET Street Bias-ply sees, it makes it harder to keep sticky. So its like a "wanting to have your cake, and eat it" scenario and in a lot of cases you can get a 10 second slip in track configuration, but for the street, your probably going to be much slower.
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08-30-2011, 01:25 PM
#8
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IMO far better compounds, as well as more choices and more "give" which helps since a Manual has not inherent slip like a automatic has. A Bias ply can recover, a drag radial cannot. Once you blow off the tires, you lost the race.
But you also must keep in mind that the more street miles and heat cycles a ET Street Bias-ply sees, it makes it harder to keep sticky. So its like a "wanting to have your cake, and eat it" scenario and in a lot of cases you can get a 10 second slip in track configuration, but for the street, your probably going to be much slower.
But you also must keep in mind that the more street miles and heat cycles a ET Street Bias-ply sees, it makes it harder to keep sticky. So its like a "wanting to have your cake, and eat it" scenario and in a lot of cases you can get a 10 second slip in track configuration, but for the street, your probably going to be much slower.
Awesome thanks for the info!
09-02-2011, 11:10 AM
#9
I think I'd tend to sell off the M6 setup and do a rmvb TH400 swap before I bothered with changing the 3.73s out of that 12 bolt. The auto will be much more consistent and faster. You won't get totally bored - you'll still have to shift the trans...you just get to relax your left leg...or keep the clutch pedal in the car and pretend 
09-03-2011, 08:25 PM
#10
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Im currently running A stock 243 headed/ Trex v2 cam and stock ls6 intake on my M6 Camaro. Car weighs around 3400lbs and I have a MWC fab 9" with 4.10 gears and running a 26" tall et drag at the track. Best pass so far is 10.99 @ 126. I cant wait for some COOL air and see how this bitch does. Best 60' is 1.54 dumping at 5600
Next year Im gonna get some 1 7/8 headers and a fast 90/90 or 92 setup.
Next year Im gonna get some 1 7/8 headers and a fast 90/90 or 92 setup.
09-04-2011, 09:12 AM
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A buddy of mine has a 150k stock bottome end with prc heads, torquer 2 cam and 175 shot on pump gas and runs mid 10's all day. 12 bolt with 3.42 gear @ 3600 lb raceweight in southern MS summer weather. It's not impossible.
09-04-2011, 11:04 AM
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I'm running a 100 shot on my car...I'm stuck in the 11.00s...its not even funny anymore. It's tough man. Mines full weight w working a/c. I Tryd radials..its too much work gettin them to be consistent. I'm running a 28x13.5 ET Street now..low 1.6s all day on the jug..runs 11.0s back to back. I need a stand alone to up.the shot..
You need as much gear as you can get. Im wanting to step up to 4:30s on the jug. I just feel the 4:10s are not enough for my set up.
You need as much gear as you can get. Im wanting to step up to 4:30s on the jug. I just feel the 4:10s are not enough for my set up.
Last edited by 223HAWK; 09-04-2011 at 11:09 AM.
09-04-2011, 11:28 AM
#13
I'm running a 100 shot on my car...I'm stuck in the 11.00s...its not even funny anymore. It's tough man. Mines full weight w working a/c. I Tryd radials..its too much work gettin them to be consistent. I'm running a 28x13.5 ET Street now..low 1.6s all day on the jug..runs 11.0s back to back. I need a stand alone to up.the shot..
You need as much gear as you can get. Im wanting to step up to 4:30s on the jug. I just feel the 4:10s are not enough for my set up.
You need as much gear as you can get. Im wanting to step up to 4:30s on the jug. I just feel the 4:10s are not enough for my set up.
09-08-2011, 03:01 PM
#15
