Anyone NOT use SFC's?
09-12-2011, 02:13 PM
#1
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Anyone NOT use SFC's? Just curious to see who races their car and has not put sfc's on. For those of you who have drag raced with and without sfc's, do you feel they made a significant difference?
09-12-2011, 03:03 PM
#3
I ran my SS without them for awhile. After a few low 11-second passes my once nice and quiet car started getting creaks and moans and groans. I then did sub-frames and a little later a cage, and it never got any worse. I would like to think it kept the chassis from twisting and tweaking anymore.
09-12-2011, 03:17 PM
#4
I have a wolf 6point weld in. I changed the paltes a little. the door bar plates gose up the rocker 3x6 like wo;f has them. And the hoop is kinds the same with a 3x6 on the rocker, but I bent the back of the floor 3x6 plate up in the back. So like the rear 1inch gose up the seat hump, so its like a half box. And moved the rear bars up about 2inchs to there right on the shock metal and right over the coils. The door and hoop plates, before I welded them down I drilled some 3/4 inch holes thu the floor. Under the door bars plates, there right along were the "U" shape front frame rail is welded to the floor. Then under the car welded them up (plug). So the tubes are more fixed the better spots on the car them them in the middle over a 6x6 plate only welded on the outside. full length TA mounted on the BMR relocation Xmember. Not floor plan mid mouted
T-tops and doors open and close fine, no leaks, are dosnt have any rear fender crease lines or in the floor pans. 80K miles. Been low 1.4s.
T-tops and doors open and close fine, no leaks, are dosnt have any rear fender crease lines or in the floor pans. 80K miles. Been low 1.4s.
09-12-2011, 05:23 PM
#7
I have a wolf 6point weld in. I changed the paltes a little. the door bar plates gose up the rocker 3x6 like wo;f has them. And the hoop is kinds the same with a 3x6 on the rocker, but I bent the back of the floor 3x6 plate up in the back. So like the rear 1inch gose up the seat hump, so its like a half box. And moved the rear bars up about 2inchs to there right on the shock metal and right over the coils. The door and hoop plates, before I welded them down I drilled some 3/4 inch holes thu the floor. Under the door bars plates, there right along were the "U" shape front frame rail is welded to the floor. Then under the car welded them up (plug). So the tubes are more fixed the better spots on the car them them in the middle over a 6x6 plate only welded on the outside. full length TA mounted on the BMR relocation Xmember. Not floor plan mid mouted
T-tops and doors open and close fine, no leaks, are dosnt have any rear fender crease lines or in the floor pans. 80K miles. Been low 1.4s.
T-tops and doors open and close fine, no leaks, are dosnt have any rear fender crease lines or in the floor pans. 80K miles. Been low 1.4s.
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09-12-2011, 05:25 PM
#8
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I would recommend using subframes on even a mild street car. Here's the ones on my car. I had BMR's on before and they were heavy as hell compared to this setup.
Last edited by TurboStangJON; 09-20-2011 at 01:18 AM.
09-12-2011, 06:36 PM
#10
If I did anything It would be like turbostang. doubler plate on the body LCA mount to a outriger to rocker and over to the rear frame, then a tube down the floor sectioned out. To a outrigger on the front to the rocker off the end of the subfame. All plated in. Kinds like the wolfe but tube and alot lighter.
Nothing like the add on red ones just going form the outer LCA bolt under the ca,r to the end of the frame in the front.
Nothing like the add on red ones just going form the outer LCA bolt under the ca,r to the end of the frame in the front.
09-13-2011, 06:33 AM
#11
^ Agreed with HioSS if the car gets a cage you will be plenty stiff but SFC's did make a incredible difference. I had a high milage 94 z28 that got them after the 100k mark and my current car which got them bout 40k and both times it was an amazing difference.
But one also should understand that not all cars hit off the line the same so some may do ok with being a lowered power auto. Race weight tends to be a big factor as well since less weight = less stress on the unibody.
But one also should understand that not all cars hit off the line the same so some may do ok with being a lowered power auto. Race weight tends to be a big factor as well since less weight = less stress on the unibody.
09-14-2011, 08:01 PM
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Drag racing without them is ridiculous considering how much structural integrity they add to the car. You might be fine with a cage in a slower car but every high horsepower unibody car has subframes. In most cases in order to run fast legally you need to have an inner an outer framerail of some sort. In the case of an F-body they have neither so the first is the subframes and the next can be rocker bars connecting the front and rear bars. In my case they make a significant difference over a 10pt mounted to floor plates.
09-14-2011, 09:15 PM
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I worked on RR cars for 17yrs and never seen a set of sub-frame connectors on those cars. Not even on our ALMS gt M3's or our Grand Am GT M3's, but they did have a very extensive cage. Far better than most drag cages.
09-14-2011, 10:57 PM
#14
However i strongly believe F-bodies need them, ive had alot of these cars LT1's and LS1's and have many friends as well w/ f-bodies ..we talk all the time about SFC"s the 1's who dont , who race, u can see how the distortion is wrinkling up the rear quarter panels..even some of the cars i owned, bought from some guys who never installed SFC"s had the same lil affects of having NO SFC's...Its a must if ur gonna run..my 02 cents
09-14-2011, 11:35 PM
#16
SO WHAT! ..what's the majority say? Ive seen wrinkiling in LT1 cars and pointed out stuff to guys at the track, running bolt on F-bodies.. they were surprised to see how the rear quarter have a little bit going on..not to mention it may help plant the suspension better..
Last edited by z28241; 09-15-2011 at 01:11 AM.
09-15-2011, 07:36 AM
#17
Mine unfortunatly wrinkled the quarters, put dimples on the tops of them and also stress cracked the sail panel when it had nothing. When I put the cage in I wasnt going to do subframes but I just put them on anyways.
Would this of done it if it just had the wolfe 6 pt rollbar in it to start? Who knows but I plan on repainting the car soon and didnt want to risk it happening again.
Would this of done it if it just had the wolfe 6 pt rollbar in it to start? Who knows but I plan on repainting the car soon and didnt want to risk it happening again.
09-15-2011, 09:22 AM
#19
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iv never seen the quarters wrinkle, yall got any pics???
however, my buddy had a 86 iroc that he drag raced with t-tops and he did crack the t-top on the drives side under a very hard launch.(rearseal already blown out of motor, trans breaked it from about 4500 on M/T slicks...CRACK lol)
however, my buddy had a 86 iroc that he drag raced with t-tops and he did crack the t-top on the drives side under a very hard launch.(rearseal already blown out of motor, trans breaked it from about 4500 on M/T slicks...CRACK lol)
