How hard to get below 3000 lbs?
a carbon hood is really 20 lbs savings wow!! that mean a stock hood would need to be 30 lbs. i was going to say swapping out the rear glass for lexan should save allot, and no safety loss. removing seats is a good temporary weight loss. 2 piece rotors (i like dba) save a good amount of lbs and rotating mass too. pulling the ac will save about 20lbs. a lightweight flywheel. also starting with a car without t tops should help i do believe those cars are lighter.
If 10s is your goal leave the car close to full weight no need for 3000lbs and tear up a nice car. I have a ms3 and with 100 shot the car ran 10.83@123. Stock 10 bolt, transmission just has a shift kit, stock suspension. Heck I just drove this car from Dayton to Indy and back this weekend to race in the bracket finals.
I laugh at all you guys saying "rare" car. All the guys with their Yenko's and Super Duty LeMans/Catalinas, etc.. would laugh in your face back in the 60's when those cars came out.
It's a damn car. It's JUST a color. It's not anything special, not a higher horsepower, not a factory race car, no special order options, NOTHING. A FRIGGIN COLOR. By the time that car has ANY value north of 25,000, restoration parts will be out anyways.
Damn, this site has gone so downhill since its inception.
OP, do what you want. If you are trying to do this on a budget and the question you asked was meant to say "can I get under 3000lbs without spending money and without cutting/trimming" then your answer is no.
It's a damn car. It's JUST a color. It's not anything special, not a higher horsepower, not a factory race car, no special order options, NOTHING. A FRIGGIN COLOR. By the time that car has ANY value north of 25,000, restoration parts will be out anyways.
Damn, this site has gone so downhill since its inception.
OP, do what you want. If you are trying to do this on a budget and the question you asked was meant to say "can I get under 3000lbs without spending money and without cutting/trimming" then your answer is no.
so what you guys think...
1998 WS6
ported 806 heads...
ms3 cam
ls6 intake
pacesetter longtube tubes. cutout...
4l60e full manual vb 3500 converter... 3.42 gears... toyo drag radials..
brand x 150 wet shot.
looking for mid-low 10's
1998 WS6
ported 806 heads...
ms3 cam
ls6 intake
pacesetter longtube tubes. cutout...
4l60e full manual vb 3500 converter... 3.42 gears... toyo drag radials..
brand x 150 wet shot.
looking for mid-low 10's
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guess im asking for to much haha.... 
Start with tubular k member, a arms, and light weight spindles. Run a single kirkey for track only, replace the carpet with some lightweight ozite, big n littles, spare tire/jack, add the aftermarket bumper supports in place of the stock ones. that's a solid 250+lbs of weight that compromises nothi
The only reason me and Latch both think that safety equipment is necessary is that we have a mutual friend that all of you know that has wrecked two of these cars, and if he had removed the airbags, bumper supports etc. he probably wouldn't be here or would be here in a wheelchair.
As latch said what's impressive is when you get a street car with amenities into the 10's or 9's.
As latch said what's impressive is when you get a street car with amenities into the 10's or 9's.
Better dead hook with a mid 1.4 60 foot, spray through the shifts and shift at 6800rpm to have a shot. Big difference between trying to go 1090s and low 10s.
you dont have to get a non vented drag brake kit. You can put stock brakes on them (3rd gen) click the link here
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...products_id=74
http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/c21_p1.html
And you can get some other street type brake kits. willwood makes some vented rotors for medium duty that are lighter and still made for street driving.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...20Brake%20Rear
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...products_id=74
http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/c21_p1.html
And you can get some other street type brake kits. willwood makes some vented rotors for medium duty that are lighter and still made for street driving.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...20Brake%20Rear
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
The only reason me and Latch both think that safety equipment is necessary is that we have a mutual friend that all of you know that has wrecked two of these cars, and if he had removed the airbags, bumper supports etc. he probably wouldn't be here or would be here in a wheelchair.
As latch said what's impressive is when you get a street car with amenities into the 10's or 9's.
As latch said what's impressive is when you get a street car with amenities into the 10's or 9's.
It woul be interesting to see how well a 2800lb f-body with a 12-point moly cage, racing Kirkey seats, with a 5-point harness would hold up to a big hit. Keep a few amenities like power steering, power brakes, stereo, but get all lightweight sispension pieces, carpet, wheels, etc, etc. You'd have to take a really big blow to suffer critical injuries strapped in like that.
is my car all gutted?nope.will it turn a 10 sec time hell yes!do i have proof yet?no,but the car isnt done,like a rollbar,race wheels ,and 9inch.then ill see if it has it in it which i am for sure it does.
this whole weight reduction stuff has been getting alot more interest from me as of late. cars been paid off for a while and i finally bought a truck after 6 years of driving the camaro. i think it may be time to start removing stuff that i dont really "need". definitely going to start taking a closer look at threads like this.