Whats typical gain going to 15x3.5 skinnies and 15x10 rears?
10-12-2011, 03:11 AM
#21
Restricted User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is not ricer math. It is been shown many times over and you are the first person to claim it is ricer math. It is virtualy a garentee.
Like your improvements show there are plenty of other feet to make improvments that lower your e.t. but the first 60 have the largerst effect on your et generaly.
Like your improvements show there are plenty of other feet to make improvments that lower your e.t. but the first 60 have the largerst effect on your et generaly.
10-12-2011, 07:11 AM
#23
I thought I had seen .3-.4 a few times from people. Apparently I am mistaken.
Point still remains if you can get it to hook and drop your 60ft. it will help more at the end then most other small changes you can make.
Point still remains if you can get it to hook and drop your 60ft. it will help more at the end then most other small changes you can make.
10-12-2011, 09:56 AM
#24
Can we have the da so we can see what was going on?
10-12-2011, 10:03 AM
#25
Its pretty much pointless to say what you gained from going from street setup to drag setup if there isnt a da to compair. I have heard general rule of thumb is every 1000' difference in da is.1 but I have had MUCH different results with my car. In just about every case it seems my car gains around .1 for every 500-700 drop in da.
If my car gains .1 with another 800 da reduction and I gain .1 for skinnies that puts my time at 11.718 which is pretty good I would think.
Only one way to find out I guess lol
If my car gains .1 with another 800 da reduction and I gain .1 for skinnies that puts my time at 11.718 which is pretty good I would think.
Only one way to find out I guess lol
10-12-2011, 11:27 AM
#28
10 Second Club
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chicago IL/ Lake Geneva WI
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Running without the air filter for a couple passes at the track should be fine. I've been meaning to pull mine out, but it still looks brand new since I never street drive my car.
10-12-2011, 02:37 PM
#30
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Point is you will benefit from swapping to a drag set up whether its a .1 or .3
Get'em on and post up your results!
10-14-2011, 07:51 AM
#32
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fuquay Varina, NC
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Me and JonCR96Z did a wheel swap at the track.without going into all the details someone look up thethread he started and post it in here I'm on my phone and can't get the link. The title is like new best weird results. But we swaped the wheels at the track and picked up MPH and almost no ET. Maybe a couple hundeths
10-14-2011, 09:18 AM
#33
Me and JonCR96Z did a wheel swap at the track.without going into all the details someone look up thethread he started and post it in here I'm on my phone and can't get the link. The title is like new best weird results. But we swaped the wheels at the track and picked up MPH and almost no ET. Maybe a couple hundeths
10-14-2011, 09:29 AM
#34
Seems like most gain consistancy over anything.
Thats alot of weight loss off rotating wheels and I would have thought the results would be night and day. Whats up with weight loss off the wheels x 4? That dosent seem realistic at all from what I have seen.
Thats alot of weight loss off rotating wheels and I would have thought the results would be night and day. Whats up with weight loss off the wheels x 4? That dosent seem realistic at all from what I have seen.
10-14-2011, 10:40 AM
#35
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fuquay Varina, NC
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't understand your question. If your asking if there was a 15-20 weight drop per wheeelgoing fromthe 17" WS6 wheels to the Draglites and bias plys. Then the answer is yes. 60 lbs of weight off of rotating mass at a minumum.
10-14-2011, 10:40 AM
#36
If you go from a radial tire setup to a bias ply drag setup, you could lose mph but et better. There's variables with everything too. You may not be at the limit of your current wheel/tire setup but could improve with a drag setup. So gains can be skewed this way and someone might see a few tenths while another might only see 1 tenth.
10-14-2011, 12:06 PM
#38
I was just saying that the theory of every 1lb of weight loss off rotational mass = 4lbs dosent really seem to add up compaired to the results im seeing here. If it were true then the results should be night and day just from switching to lighter wheels+tires.
10-14-2011, 12:32 PM
#39
10 Second Club
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chicago IL/ Lake Geneva WI
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Most wheels and tires aren't that much lighter. I've been doing a lot of research before I buy a new setup for my jalopy. My stock 5 spoke 16 inch Camaro wheels should weigh between 19-20lbs a piece, so we'll call it 80 total. My 255/50/16 ET Street Radials weigh around 29lbs a piece, and my front tires are some cheapo Falken 235/55/16's that are probably around 35lbs each. 208 total lbs in wheels/tires. New combo -
Hoosier Drag Fronts - 11lbs per 22lbs total
Hoosier Drag Radials - 24lbs per 48lbs total
Weld RTS Fronts - 10.2lbs per 20.4lbs total
Weld RTS Rears 15x8 - 13.49lbs per 27lbs total
Total new wheels and tires - 117.4
Which saves 90.6 lbs and should be worth a tenth.
Your other gains would come from less rolling resistance due to the narrower front wheels. As far as rotational vs. static weight, it doesn't really matter. You're only really losing 22lbs from the drive axle wheels and tires. If you wanna multiply that x4 =88lbs it would come up with your tenth that way as well. Removing unsprung weight would make more of a difference than rotational. Hope it helps you make a decision.
Hoosier Drag Fronts - 11lbs per 22lbs total
Hoosier Drag Radials - 24lbs per 48lbs total
Weld RTS Fronts - 10.2lbs per 20.4lbs total
Weld RTS Rears 15x8 - 13.49lbs per 27lbs total
Total new wheels and tires - 117.4
Which saves 90.6 lbs and should be worth a tenth.
Your other gains would come from less rolling resistance due to the narrower front wheels. As far as rotational vs. static weight, it doesn't really matter. You're only really losing 22lbs from the drive axle wheels and tires. If you wanna multiply that x4 =88lbs it would come up with your tenth that way as well. Removing unsprung weight would make more of a difference than rotational. Hope it helps you make a decision.
10-14-2011, 12:46 PM
#40
Most wheels and tires aren't that much lighter. I've been doing a lot of research before I buy a new setup for my jalopy. My stock 5 spoke 16 inch Camaro wheels should weigh between 19-20lbs a piece, so we'll call it 80 total. My 255/50/16 ET Street Radials weigh around 29lbs a piece, and my front tires are some cheapo Falken 235/55/16's that are probably around 35lbs each. 208 total lbs in wheels/tires. New combo -
Hoosier Drag Fronts - 11lbs per 22lbs total
Hoosier Drag Radials - 24lbs per 48lbs total
Weld RTS Fronts - 10.2lbs per 20.4lbs total
Weld RTS Rears 15x8 - 13.49lbs per 27lbs total
Total new wheels and tires - 117.4
Which saves 90.6 lbs and should be worth a tenth.
Your other gains would come from less rolling resistance due to the narrower front wheels. As far as rotational vs. static weight, it doesn't really matter. You're only really losing 22lbs from the drive axle wheels and tires. If you wanna multiply that x4 =88lbs it would come up with your tenth that way as well. Removing unsprung weight would make more of a difference than rotational. Hope it helps you make a decision.
Hoosier Drag Fronts - 11lbs per 22lbs total
Hoosier Drag Radials - 24lbs per 48lbs total
Weld RTS Fronts - 10.2lbs per 20.4lbs total
Weld RTS Rears 15x8 - 13.49lbs per 27lbs total
Total new wheels and tires - 117.4
Which saves 90.6 lbs and should be worth a tenth.
Your other gains would come from less rolling resistance due to the narrower front wheels. As far as rotational vs. static weight, it doesn't really matter. You're only really losing 22lbs from the drive axle wheels and tires. If you wanna multiply that x4 =88lbs it would come up with your tenth that way as well. Removing unsprung weight would make more of a difference than rotational. Hope it helps you make a decision.