Reducing drag on stock brakes
Reducing drag on stock brakes What can be done besides the obvious to reduce drag on stock brakes?
What pads etc. work best
Everything lubed and in good working condition seems like the factory brakes have a ton of drag to them. can anything be done to reduce it? I have done everything I can think of on several 4th gens with minimal results
What pads etc. work best
Everything lubed and in good working condition seems like the factory brakes have a ton of drag to them. can anything be done to reduce it? I have done everything I can think of on several 4th gens with minimal results
do you have the LT1 front brakes with the bulky spindle moutn junk?
I donno, but my stock breaks free spin really nice. The rotors have alot of mass so that helps. haha
I hear some stock class racers that put springs on there cailper/pads to pull the pads apart. But thats not going to last on the street and driving the car more then 10-20 miles a month.
I donno, but my stock breaks free spin really nice. The rotors have alot of mass so that helps. haha
I hear some stock class racers that put springs on there cailper/pads to pull the pads apart. But thats not going to last on the street and driving the car more then 10-20 miles a month.
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
I'm beginning to think a lot of the problems people are having with rotors not free-spin is a little more in depth than just calipers and wheel bearings.
Having your rotors turned on a standard mandrel-mounted brake lathe can only correct so much in terms of runout. If the chamfer on the ID of the rotor hat has any rust or nicks, it WILL throw off the runout between the hat mounting surface (where the rotor touches the hub) and the pad mating surface.
The best way to fix this, is have your rotors skin cut on an on-car brake lathe, guaranteed to run more true then a standard mandrel mounted brake lathe.
The other option without turning rotors (assuming they're not warped horribly) is to take a dial indicator and magnet base off of the spindle and check runout of the pad mating surface. Find the low spot, if it's .010" cut a piece of shim stock half the thickness of the runout, .005" in this case, and slide it over the stud nearest to the measured low spot.
The rotor may measure 1.000" or .970" all around, but if it has any runout (say .010") then a 1.000" measured rotor is now trying to take up 1.010" of space in one area, and 1.000" in another, and this is what makes your rotors hang up. Spacing the rotor out .005" in one spot to take care of runout will not effect the operation of the caliper, as the .005" can be taken up with the slide pins.
Food for thought. Remember guys, it's the little things that add up.
How many of you LS guys have removed your Parking brake equipment, but still rock out a rotor that has the drum mounting surface on the inner hat, just uselessly contributing to your rotational mass? Not this guy
Removing the extra material, and dimpling the rotor like show dropped 2lbs PER ROTOR for no cost to me (gotta love working in a machine shop)
Having your rotors turned on a standard mandrel-mounted brake lathe can only correct so much in terms of runout. If the chamfer on the ID of the rotor hat has any rust or nicks, it WILL throw off the runout between the hat mounting surface (where the rotor touches the hub) and the pad mating surface.
The best way to fix this, is have your rotors skin cut on an on-car brake lathe, guaranteed to run more true then a standard mandrel mounted brake lathe.
The other option without turning rotors (assuming they're not warped horribly) is to take a dial indicator and magnet base off of the spindle and check runout of the pad mating surface. Find the low spot, if it's .010" cut a piece of shim stock half the thickness of the runout, .005" in this case, and slide it over the stud nearest to the measured low spot.
The rotor may measure 1.000" or .970" all around, but if it has any runout (say .010") then a 1.000" measured rotor is now trying to take up 1.010" of space in one area, and 1.000" in another, and this is what makes your rotors hang up. Spacing the rotor out .005" in one spot to take care of runout will not effect the operation of the caliper, as the .005" can be taken up with the slide pins.
Food for thought. Remember guys, it's the little things that add up.
How many of you LS guys have removed your Parking brake equipment, but still rock out a rotor that has the drum mounting surface on the inner hat, just uselessly contributing to your rotational mass? Not this guy
Removing the extra material, and dimpling the rotor like show dropped 2lbs PER ROTOR for no cost to me (gotta love working in a machine shop)
