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Charging issue after battery relocation ????

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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Not sure exactly where the Alt came from originally, however my buddy owns Battery Speacialist out of Illinois and they rebuild Alts, starters and other stuff as well all day long. It's been rebuilt is what I know from him. I mean ****, parts could go bad i guess but it just seems off to me somehow or another. I guess I could take the starter to go get tested? Any other test to run????
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 94BlueZ28
Ok so did some testing tonight, come to find out car not started reads 12.4,starts up charges to 14.4 which is great all though the alt still squeals. After more testing we read that there is a perfect flow until we get to the starter which drops when starting from 12.4 down to 9.1 when starting which is taking alot to get it to turn over. Weird part is my buddy rebuilt it as a high torque about 8 months ago. Is this the problem it's taking so much to crank it over? It seems to be charging however it's a bitch to start even after starting or during at a point. Any thoughts?
If the battery voltage dropping AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS to 9.1 when cranking is completely different than the voltage dropping to 9.1 at the starter. So what is it really doing? Check the battery voltage while cranking the car and tell us what it is. Then check it right at the starter, red wire on the big lug right above the starter, black lead on the starter's case.

If you're battery to starter wires are too small, have bad ends, if the switch is bad or you have a bad ground circuit it will cause excessive starter current.

Worked on a car with the battery relocated to the trunk, the ground wire was bolted to the frame at the rear shackle. The ground circuit was so bad I had to run a cable from the battery to the starter mounting bolt to get it to crank. This was a unibody car with sub frame connectors welded in.

What are you using to make these voltage tests? I ask because high currents can really screw up some meters.

Al
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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More testing, this is what we came up with with a multimeter..... at the battery it reads 12.4 then when we crank it over at the battery it reads 9.1. Cant recall what the starter reads right at this moment but, do know that we tested the volts coming off the purple wire which leads back up towards the ignition starter switch correct???? It reads in the
8's. Cant recall exact readings because this was a couple nights ago. I will test it again tomorrow and write down exact #'s.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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What size cables ?

Buddy of mine moved battery to the trunk and it would barely crank...I threw on a welding lead (00 guage) and problem fixed.

Sounds like your wiring is correct.... just Voltage drop.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:09 AM
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I'm running 1/0 guage for the ALT to battery and 2 gauge from switch to the starter which both have cooper lugs crimped on with to where you would have to cut them off if they needed removed.... I'm using thick *** wire for sure! However you wouldn't think that the amount of strands would matter would you? I have apprx 15-17 strand wire vrs some 1/0 that I have seen that has 50+ strands more like speaking wire stuff???? I wouldn't assume that this would make a bit of difference?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 94BlueZ28
I'm running 1/0 guage for the ALT to battery and 2 gauge from switch to the starter which both have cooper lugs crimped on with to where you would have to cut them off if they needed removed.... I'm using thick *** wire for sure! However you wouldn't think that the amount of strands would matter would you? I have apprx 15-17 strand wire vrs some 1/0 that I have seen that has 50+ strands more like speaking wire stuff???? I wouldn't assume that this would make a bit of difference?
Strands make a huge dif. Find a chart online showing the voltage drop by foot and the amount of strands in the wire and you will be dumbfounded. I had the same issues with 2 guage and switched it out to 0/0 with more stranding and WHALA!

Last edited by ramairws6; Jan 25, 2012 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Lose the 2 ga. and it'll be good
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairws6
Strands make a huge dif. Find a chart online showing the voltage drop by foot and the amount of strands in the wire and you will be dumbfounded. I had the same issues with 2 guage and switched it out to 0/0 with more stranding and WHALA!
So which would be best, more strands smaller wires or less stands big wire
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 94BlueZ28
So which would be best, more strands smaller wires or less stands big wire
More strands of smaller wire. Welding cable is ideal.

Al 95 Z28
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Al
More strands of smaller wire. Welding cable is ideal.

Al 95 Z28
Bing bing bing we have a winner. Use it for the grounds also. I'm using 1/0 for the battery hot to a term. block from there #2 to the starter and # 4 to the alt hot and the fuse block hot. (power). Moving the batt added 50-60lbs LOL.

Tried a little batt up frt. and sometimes she would start and some times not.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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Fot real, would the wire cause this, not enough stands?
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 04:46 AM
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2 ga is too lite of a wire for that 15' or so where the 0 ga or welding cable is made for welding (carry lots of amps) and not have the machine right next to you.

Think of it like this... amps get carried on the outside of the wire...more strands=more amps.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 06:08 AM
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Here, let me help you out. Look at the difference in amps vrs. strands and or Guages.... https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...Ampacity+Chart
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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So this whole time it could be because of the wire used? What about the ALT squealing? Somone had mentioned full fielding. Is this all because of the wiring as well? Not enough strands? This is my 4th ALT and currently swapped from the 120 amp to a AcDelco 140 amp. Starting to have a slight squeal now again!
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 94BlueZ28
So this whole time it could be because of the wire used? What about the ALT squealing? Somone had mentioned full fielding. Is this all because of the wiring as well? Not enough strands? This is my 4th ALT and currently swapped from the 120 amp to a AcDelco 140 amp. Starting to have a slight squeal now again!
It could very well be. The alt. is working over time trying to recharge the battery and could be the reason for the squeal...
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 03:43 PM
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I guess it's possible ???

If the Alt. is over-working trying to charge the battery, it could burn it up.

Re-looked at the drawling... you have 2ga. wire at the alternator ???
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug G
I guess it's possible ???

If the Alt. is over-working trying to charge the battery, it could burn it up.
You can't "overwork" an alternator. It will either keep up with the load or it won't. Alternators automatically current limit once the loading on the magnetic flux is exceeded that's why they don't need a current limiting relay.. That's assuming it's designed properly and not some hack re-wind.

Al 95 Z28
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:45 PM
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Well ****....Not sure what to do at this point. I havent had a chance to even tinker with the car at all since my wife went back to work and is going to school on top of that. I work all day and then have the kids 3 nights a week now by myself and cant get any time. Guess its life but its a bummer to not get anything accomplished. My neighbor got one of his supposedly engineer buddies on the line the other day and he is total opposite of the wire thing, He states its the other way around that i would want the bigger strands vrs the smaller little ones. I'm tired of nickel and diming this pig and tired of messing with it, actually thinking about it for now. I guess it's going to sit for a while. Nothing but a pain in the ***!

Last edited by 94BlueZ28; Jan 31, 2012 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 94BlueZ28
Well ****....Not sure what to do at this point. I havent had a chance to even tinker with the car at all since my wife went back to work and is going to school on top of that. I work all day and then have the kids 3 nights a week now by myself and cant get any time. Guess its life but its a bummer to not get anything accomplished. My neighbor got one of his supposedly engineer buddies on the line the other day and he is total opposite of the wire thing, He states its the other way around that i would want the bigger strands vrs the smaller little ones. I'm tired of nickel and diming this pig and tired of messing with it, actually thinking about it for now. I guess it's going to sit for a while. Nothing but a pain in the ***!
Finer or thinner strands in a larger quantity will be in a smaller package and a lot more flexible. Did you not look at the stranding chart i posted above!??
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 05:37 PM
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The chart starts at 50 ft, not close at all in comparison in my eyes unless your looking at strictly strand count to amps to foot..... If this is the case my ALT is 140 amp, so I would need what? The chart states # 3 at 50' for 150A which has 525 strands. I'm running roughly 16', would the starter be the same, not sure on there amperage? I see that you all are trying to lean towards the larger wire 1/0 or 0 gauge for sure but from what the chart states its not necessary to need that big unless i'm reading it wrong as far as amperage but what would the amp be for 16ft.... I can try it out for sure but **** thats another $150 gamble for wire not knowing if that is the problem, lol!

They have way way more strands then what mine has for sure so hell it could be. I'm just saying i dont know what to go by because I have 12 people telling me different ideas everywhere lol. It never woks out the same for any one person.
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