Charging issue after battery relocation ????
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Ok so yes, that chart for sure points to a 1/0 gauge. No strand count but it is in the foot range of what I have. I think I'll just order a 50ft roll of 1/0 and call it a day. If this doesn't work, well i'm gonna put a rag in the gas tank, light it and run!
These are weak points for strand count advantage that they state in your chart. "There are several advantages to individual stands over a single solid wire. The first is flexibility, it is much easier to install multiple strand wire since it can be bent and curved in any desired shape, whereas solid wire is almost impossible to bend at any angle. The second advantage is durability. Since there are many multiple strands even if a single strand were to break there is almost no loss in power transmission. In solid wire if a single strand is damaged power handling can be greatly reduced"
I ran mine with no issues, it bends easy enough. I'm just saying they have no real justification that the smaller strand actual effects the system at all vr big strand copper! The simple state, flexibility, durability, possible damage effect. All in all, you guys would swap out the wire with 1/0 all the way around with a mass quanity of strands vr my 1/0 15 strand wire?
These are weak points for strand count advantage that they state in your chart. "There are several advantages to individual stands over a single solid wire. The first is flexibility, it is much easier to install multiple strand wire since it can be bent and curved in any desired shape, whereas solid wire is almost impossible to bend at any angle. The second advantage is durability. Since there are many multiple strands even if a single strand were to break there is almost no loss in power transmission. In solid wire if a single strand is damaged power handling can be greatly reduced"
I ran mine with no issues, it bends easy enough. I'm just saying they have no real justification that the smaller strand actual effects the system at all vr big strand copper! The simple state, flexibility, durability, possible damage effect. All in all, you guys would swap out the wire with 1/0 all the way around with a mass quanity of strands vr my 1/0 15 strand wire?
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Ok so I have been slacking, just getting ready to order the wire. Any thoughts here? 0 gauge stinger wire, knukonceptz kolossus 1/0 gauge, or just a standard 1/0 welding cable all OFC.... Any thoughts or opinions.
^^^ what he asked. I'm about to relocate my battery and kind of need my daily driver to actually work the first time around! 
Anyway, here are some excerpts from Wikipedia...
The first one agrees with your list of advantages: But on the same page, the very next paragraph seems like it's saying one thick piece of copper is better than a bunch of thin pieces of copper squished together: And of course we want the least resistance, with the battery sitting all the way in the back.
Yes? No?
Anyway, here are some excerpts from Wikipedia...
The first one agrees with your list of advantages:
Stranded wire is more flexible than solid wire of the same total cross-sectional area. Solid wire is cheaper to manufacture than stranded wire and is used where there is little need for flexibility in the wire. Solid wire also provides mechanical ruggedness; and, because it has relatively less surface area which is exposed to attack by corrosives, protection against the environment. Stranded wire is used when higher resistance to metal fatigue is required. Such situations include connections between circuit boards in multi-printed-circuit-board devices, where the rigidity of solid wire would produce too much stress as a result of movement during assembly or servicing; A.C. line cords for appliances; musical instrument cables; computer mouse cables; welding electrode cables; control cables connecting moving machine parts; mining machine cables; trailing machine cables; and numerous others.
At high frequencies, current travels near the surface of the wire because of the skin effect, resulting in increased power loss in the wire. Stranded wire might seem to reduce this effect, since the total surface area of the strands is greater than the surface area of the equivalent solid wire, but ordinary stranded wire does not reduce the skin effect because all the strands are short-circuited together and behave as a single conductor. A stranded wire will have higher resistance than a solid wire of the same diameter because the cross-section of the stranded wire is not all copper, there are unavoidable gaps between the strands (this is the circle packing problem for circles within a circle). A stranded wire with the same cross-section of conductor as a solid wire is said to have the same equivalent gauge and is always a larger diameter.
Yes? No?
Forget all this BS. You can't use solid wire. Forget about why, just look at the wire in your car. Do you see any solid wire put in by the factory? Use multi strand wire. The more strands the better. Learn how to put the ends on because that's what counts. Do a good job and you'll have a trouble free car.
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
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Alright, well I picked up some 1/0 welding cable at a local welding shop today. EXPENSIVE WIRE! I hope this takes care of the issue. The wire for sure looks bigger, a **** ton of strands vrs my 15 strand **** I have now, lol! Trying to install it tonight after work, kids homework and diner... I'll post up results when finished. Oh yeah, I'm running the 0 gauge for everything, starter, ALT, and grounds. **** it, go big or go home right! Then I know for sure my wiring isn't the issue. As for connctions I use the big *** copper lugs that are crimped on with this big *** crimping tool that I borrow from ACE. Only way them bitches come off is if you cut the wire. Should be good to go as far as this goes.
FWIW, I am an electrical contractor and size and insulation type/temperature are what changes the ampacity of a given wire not whether its solid or stranded. The reasons to use stranded is because of flexibility and in that case more strands=more flexibility. This table is out of the N.E.C. (National Electric Code). As far as I know, #4 is the largest you can get in solid and its bare. In no way would you want to use it for automotive anything. For example in cooking equipment, the factory uses 14 and 12 gauge wire for element wiring and such, which is rated for 25 amps. However the insulation that they use allows a much higher ampacity. As an electrician, we would have to run 8 or 6 gauge wiring with the THHN insulation rating. Not applicable in automotive just a comparison.
Last edited by crb99ws6; Feb 18, 2012 at 09:28 AM.
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Alright, well I got all the wire changed out and the car seems to start just fine now. I took it for a few rides which included a couple stops and starts and it fired up everytime which is what i was looking for. Thanks for all the advice, however I still have one concern.
The alt is still squealing just for a tad bit and then it stops, of course not as bad as it was! It's enough to drive me crazy for sure. I'm going to buy another belt to eliminate that possibility but i can tell for sure it's coming from the damn alt. Any more thoughts on this?
The alt is still squealing just for a tad bit and then it stops, of course not as bad as it was! It's enough to drive me crazy for sure. I'm going to buy another belt to eliminate that possibility but i can tell for sure it's coming from the damn alt. Any more thoughts on this?
The alt is still squealing just for a tad bit and then it stops, of course not as bad as it was! It's enough to drive me crazy for sure. I'm going to buy another belt to eliminate that possibility but i can tell for sure it's coming from the damn alt. Any more thoughts on this?
Al 95 Z28
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Brand new tensioner and ALT. I'll try the belt! If not I'm returning the ALT to Autozone and looking somewhere else. Any thoughts on where to get a good one. Most likely they are REMANs like the one I got.
