RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Just got my motor back from Virgina Speed. Thanks Shawn.
Now got to fit this monster, with it's Super Vic and Fast 4150, in the engine bay.
I cut the top cowl about a 1/2" from the windshield almost all the way across.
I cut the bottom cowl to match the top.
I'm going to stich weld a piece of metal between the two. I think that's what most people do. Then fill in the gaps.
But, I've seen some pics, that looks like some people cut the bottom cowl futher back toward the firewall.
Which is the perferred method?

Also, what gauge metal do I need, and what to fill in the gaps? (Something I can sand or grind down smooth.)

I've done alot of research, but still alittle confused.

Thanks in advance, George

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I cut mine just like you have described. I bought a sheet of 0.024" steel and it worked well. It is easy to bend and can be cut with snips. I haven't filled and smoothed it yet but I plan to use evercoat finishing putty.

fuel

iTrader: (13)

her is some idea's

fuel

iTrader: (13)

here is some more

Mr.L88

iTrader: (1)

Very nice work right there!

DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

That's the one I'm copying from.
After stich welding, what do I fill in the gaps with?
That's exactly what I'm shooting for.
Thanks for all the responses.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Thank you, Sir.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

I think I found some filler.
Evercoat Body Filler Z-Grip. Then go back over that with their Finishing Putty.
Sounds like the old Bondo filler we used back in the 70's.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

heres mine, same as above but maybe a slight different, combine the 2 and make the best? I used a metal filler i bought from napa, IMO its better then bondo since its more of a metal. Just food for thought...

autokraft

iTrader: (1)

wow man did you cut off the area along where the top of the fender bolts on? How much weight did that save?

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

U talking about the inner fender area?.. Yea everyone does, lol. I'd say 3-4lbs a side. And no the fender doesn't bolt to it, it bolts to the top flange, this is all extra metal that "doesn't matter" on a drag car

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Could you have the stock windshield cut shorter?


Do you have to use some filler? On some spot on my car I welded it fully and ground it down. Solid metal edge with no filler. You have to move around welding it, and spend some time welding. But cuts any filler steps out, and letting that hardend.

Mr.L88

iTrader: (1)

The process is to grind and it pretty much a hit and miss deal on safety glass. Pretty much a skill that might take more than one windsheild to master.

One thing to consider on these cuts is knowing exactly where you need to remove material. I saw a shop car cut up once just to find that they really did not gain much from a room perspective. Had they mocked things up instead of just cut they would have known that. It had to suck to go cutting again once all the work was thought to be done.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

That looks nice, too.
Do you remember the brand of metal filler. Also can you hand sand it or do you have to grind it.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

no i dont remember the specific name, just a metal filler from NAPA. It dries up hard but still able to sand it smooth, takes a little more time then bondo but works better IMO.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

this is the final product after everything is painted etc. Clears the 6061 elbow with no problems at all (if thats what ur gonna run)....

fuel

iTrader: (13)

all metal is what i used.but ill be using rage on the engine bay this time.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Do you mig or tig weld the metal filler plate between the upper and lower cowl.
A guy at work said that he could tig it. I though that you would use a mig welder on that. I'm no welder, just asking.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

Mine was deff mig'ed, tig I can see bein a PITA and not needed