Tips for Hookin' on the street??
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 876
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Tips for Hookin' on the street?? I don't mean prostitution. I'm talking about action on the street. How's everyone doing it?
'95 hardtop Formula:
LQ4/243's, '03 z06 cam. LS1 Intake
ported TB.
Th350, edge 3400rpm 2.6STR converter
10 bolt, 3.73's
15x3.5/15x8 drag lites with 275/50 m/t ET street RADIALS
Front: PA racing k member, upper&lower a arms (that I did a little work to for a bind-free range of motion) strange SA coilovers with 275lb/in springs.
Rear: UMI tunnel mount adj. T/A in the top hole on the crossmember, Lakewood boxed LCA's w/ poly bushings. Stock sway bar, stock LT1 springs with 3/4 coil cut, no isolator. 01 z28 stock shocks (decarbon's)
Fender-to-tire in front is 25 3/4, rear is 27 1/4.
No HVAC, ABS, air bag, P/S, both bumper supports are gone, fender metal, Swiss cheesed the stock steel hood, cut frame horns,
I know I'm leaving a lot on the table with the rear suspension for the track to nail a good 60', and possibly need to raise the front end about an inch. But what other little tricks can I do to get this car to hook like a fox body on the street?
DISCLAIMER: we have access to a now-privately owned 2 lane road that was decommissioned when a 4 lane highway was built to replace it, so we're not running on an open road like a jackass putting innocent lives at stake.
'95 hardtop Formula:
LQ4/243's, '03 z06 cam. LS1 Intake
ported TB.Th350, edge 3400rpm 2.6STR converter
10 bolt, 3.73's
15x3.5/15x8 drag lites with 275/50 m/t ET street RADIALS
Front: PA racing k member, upper&lower a arms (that I did a little work to for a bind-free range of motion) strange SA coilovers with 275lb/in springs.
Rear: UMI tunnel mount adj. T/A in the top hole on the crossmember, Lakewood boxed LCA's w/ poly bushings. Stock sway bar, stock LT1 springs with 3/4 coil cut, no isolator. 01 z28 stock shocks (decarbon's)
Fender-to-tire in front is 25 3/4, rear is 27 1/4.
No HVAC, ABS, air bag, P/S, both bumper supports are gone, fender metal, Swiss cheesed the stock steel hood, cut frame horns,
I know I'm leaving a lot on the table with the rear suspension for the track to nail a good 60', and possibly need to raise the front end about an inch. But what other little tricks can I do to get this car to hook like a fox body on the street?
DISCLAIMER: we have access to a now-privately owned 2 lane road that was decommissioned when a 4 lane highway was built to replace it, so we're not running on an open road like a jackass putting innocent lives at stake.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 876
Likes: 0
From: Catlettsburg, Ky
As entertaining as a back halfed, big rubber car sounds, I'm sure there's a happy medium between a pro street car and a stock suspension car that should work for my sub-400rwhp car.
Besides, I'm trying to put a hurtin' on a back halfed big rubber s10 that the owner thinks he's the **** of the walk right now. Gotta bring him back down to earth a little.
Besides, I'm trying to put a hurtin' on a back halfed big rubber s10 that the owner thinks he's the **** of the walk right now. Gotta bring him back down to earth a little.
I ran 28x10.50 Hoosier slick and did my burnout in VHT or pimp juice the backed back into my tracks. Rear shocks liked to be soft on my car. Track they like 6 or 7, but street had to go to 3. It squats bad but always pulls the wheels up on the street.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 876
Likes: 0
From: Catlettsburg, Ky
That's kinda what I was thinking too. Try and make everything in the suspension/body take most of the hit, instead of the tires.
In which case, LCA relocation brackets probably wouldn't be a good idea, as well a subframe connectors, or even a comp engineering shock.
Last time out when I still had the LT1, the car did great on a off-idle launch, but this was before the strange coilovers and softer front springs which shoul have more "stored energy" and rebound is MUCH softer than stock on the loosest setting. Add in the fact that my A arms will actually articulate now. So I should have plenty of lift for the front, I'm just curious as to how much "squat" I should have in the rear. I'm sure there's a fine line between unloading the tires (sucking them up toward the body) and just transferring weight.
I know the LCA's shouldn't be in an upward angle to the rearend, but with the coils cut and isolators gone, I may have to relocate them down 2" just to get them at a downward angle again.
In which case, LCA relocation brackets probably wouldn't be a good idea, as well a subframe connectors, or even a comp engineering shock.
Last time out when I still had the LT1, the car did great on a off-idle launch, but this was before the strange coilovers and softer front springs which shoul have more "stored energy" and rebound is MUCH softer than stock on the loosest setting. Add in the fact that my A arms will actually articulate now. So I should have plenty of lift for the front, I'm just curious as to how much "squat" I should have in the rear. I'm sure there's a fine line between unloading the tires (sucking them up toward the body) and just transferring weight.
I know the LCA's shouldn't be in an upward angle to the rearend, but with the coils cut and isolators gone, I may have to relocate them down 2" just to get them at a downward angle again.
