Drag only options for driver and passanger window
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Magee MS
I like the idea of lexan... but I have to have them go up and down.
F441...where did you get manual regulators? I'de LOVE to convert my car to manual windows but I wanna be able to run stock door panels
F441...where did you get manual regulators? I'de LOVE to convert my car to manual windows but I wanna be able to run stock door panels
It's very difficult to find a Firebird with Manual Regulators. It's also very difficult to find door panels from a manual window Firebird.
Camaros are much easier to get them from. Also, all Camaros use a door panel that can be used both power and manual. The locator hole is already on the backside of the panel. You just have to punch a hole through the carpet that covers it.
Before I used Carbon Fiber door panels, I used a set of Camaro door panels because I couldn't locate any from a Firebird. The arm rest mounting from a Camaro is a bit different, but other then that, they're a direct bolt on.
Hope this helps.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,950
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From: Magee MS
thanks for the info fh441!
you wouldnt just happen to have any other pictures of your window latches would u?
Ya think it would be possible to not need the latches with a car only trapping high 140s in the 1/4? I know people have been faster w/ similair setups to mine but I dont expect to go in the 8s
you wouldnt just happen to have any other pictures of your window latches would u?
Ya think it would be possible to not need the latches with a car only trapping high 140s in the 1/4? I know people have been faster w/ similair setups to mine but I dont expect to go in the 8s
Currently, I don't have any other pictures of the windows. In those pictures they still have the protective plastic coating on them.
I'm in the process of assembling the car. Once I get the windows back on, I'll take some better pictures and post them for you.
As far as the latches go, I wouldn't recommend NOT using.
I'm in the process of assembling the car. Once I get the windows back on, I'll take some better pictures and post them for you.
As far as the latches go, I wouldn't recommend NOT using.
Besides, I fixed the T-Top issue....
Last edited by Firehawk441; May 6, 2012 at 09:13 AM.
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You're really trying to get the weight out... I thought about doing that but wasn't sure if that was a really good idea.. I mean if the car were to end up on it's roof the cage is doing all the protecting but still.
haha
also curious about the a pillar holes, how much weight do you figure was saved by doing so? side note - where did you get the t-top delete setup you're running? was there alot of weight saved there as well?
Just a drill and a hole saw.
I don't have a weight for what I cut out of the pillars alone.
I cut holes in both pillars and both door sills. Weight savings was 2 lb. 12 oz.
The Carbon Fiber top came from 6litereater.
It was a 10 lb. weight savings. OEM T-Tops weigh 25lbs. combined and the CF top with the mini Quick Latches weighs 15lbs.
I gave it a fair attempt. My hood is heavy but like you already know, I refuse to use a pin on so a heavy hood is an intentional trade-off for convenience.
I cut holes in both pillars and both door sills. Weight savings was 2 lb. 12 oz.
The Carbon Fiber top came from 6litereater.
It was a 10 lb. weight savings. OEM T-Tops weigh 25lbs. combined and the CF top with the mini Quick Latches weighs 15lbs.
I gave it a fair attempt. My hood is heavy but like you already know, I refuse to use a pin on so a heavy hood is an intentional trade-off for convenience.
Last edited by Firehawk441; May 8, 2012 at 06:13 PM.
I hear ya on the hood deal. Couple things I really should have done to mine before the cage went in, I didn't do.. some more of the interior metal could have came out, could have hole saw'd some holes under the headliner, the a pillars I wasn't sure if that was a really good idea, but in hindsight I probably should have. The plastic's are on in my car already and the cage is so tight that they aren't coming back out LOL... so much for doing that stuff.
I'm sure with what I'm doing from the firewall forward, it won't matter, pretty much going to be a outlaw 10.5 nose when it's done, I'm just going to reuse the body panels and bumper cover, and mount them permanently. I didn't want to make a 1 piece nose out of the stock panels.. I know there was a no 1 piece nose rule for 8.50, and I know that's meant for the fiberglass stuff but the wrong person see's me pull the whole nose off the car in 1 piece they may start crying even though it's stock body panels.
What are you doing with the interior of the car, as far as finishing it off?
I'm sure with what I'm doing from the firewall forward, it won't matter, pretty much going to be a outlaw 10.5 nose when it's done, I'm just going to reuse the body panels and bumper cover, and mount them permanently. I didn't want to make a 1 piece nose out of the stock panels.. I know there was a no 1 piece nose rule for 8.50, and I know that's meant for the fiberglass stuff but the wrong person see's me pull the whole nose off the car in 1 piece they may start crying even though it's stock body panels.
What are you doing with the interior of the car, as far as finishing it off?
Other then the dash, steering column, door panels, and rear bulkhead, The rest of the Interior is stock. Those panels aren't that heavy and the amount of time trying to re-invent the wheel wasn't worth it to me.
Got ya, other then the dash, door panels and column mines all going back in like stock... No bulkhead going in back for me, little 3 gallon fuel cell in the nose, call it a day... Saves weight in fuel lines, and money 
. I know doing the carpet around the jungle gym I have now, is going to be a pita!
. I know doing the carpet around the jungle gym I have now, is going to be a pita! Last edited by JL ws-6; May 9, 2012 at 05:00 PM. Reason: fix typo from iphone
That looks great! Not sure why you're putting a bulkhead in the back then? Just don't want to deal with the battery box? We are doing something like that, but the radiator is alot smaller and will be offset to one side, fuel cell on the other, both sitting under the headlight covers (if that makes sense) I cut the frame horns off so they will end about where the motor plate is, everything will be built with a small round bar structure, cage is coming thru the firewall and is tieing into the shock towers, all the outer metal from the shock tower forward, and back is going away, small round bar with tabs to attach the 1/4 panels... I wanted to be able to stand in the engine bay if I wanted to, to work on the engine Dogbox on the cowl is probably 2.5 times that wide, so when the engine has to come out it can be lifted strait up and the valve covers don't even have to come off. Working on it now when it's done I'll add the pictures to the rebuild thread. Kind of did everything so what's in the back of the car, if I decide to put a pin on hatch on someday it won't matter I don't really have any reason to get to anything back there.
Dogbox on the cowl is probably 2.5 times that wide, so when the engine has to come out it can be lifted strait up and the valve covers don't even have to come off. Working on it now when it's done I'll add the pictures to the rebuild thread. Kind of did everything so what's in the back of the car, if I decide to put a pin on hatch on someday it won't matter I don't really have any reason to get to anything back there. Last edited by JL ws-6; May 9, 2012 at 04:59 PM.