Kooks 2" and manual rack
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From: Charlotte, NC
Kooks 2" and manual rack I thought I had read at one point there was an issue with running 2" Kooks headers and a manual rack. I can't seem to find the thread again, but is this still the case?
I know people often have issues with a 2" header hitting the steering shaft when switching to a manual rack. However, I have only seen this on LS engines and I don't know if you would have problems on an LT. It's very hard for vendors to make a shaft that fits every header/engine combo so the universal one often doesn't work. If you plan on keeping the factory column the fix is to have a steering shaft custom made to go around the headers. I have seen a couple of people extend the column slightly just enough to get around the header. Also, another route I have seen is to go from the column to a joint/support that's welded on the framerail then down to the rack. Another option is to have the header modified in order to fit your steering shaft.
we have bolt-in mounts for an offset manual rack conversion which should fix the clearance issue, and we can set you up with a custom steering shaft if need be as well.
You have 2 choices. Offset the rack, or remake the #1 primary, unless Kooks fixed the problem.
The #1 primary, is SO far in the say I have serious doubts if it will even clear a stock rack and steering shaft, nevermind an aftermarket rack.
The #1 primary, is SO far in the say I have serious doubts if it will even clear a stock rack and steering shaft, nevermind an aftermarket rack.
The 2 inch it's almost impossible to extend the steering shaft that much, the U joints in the steering shaft will be at the point of binding up. Only way you can get away without modifying the header is if you offset the rack, and if I had a choice between modifying the header and shifting the rack over, I'd modify the header in a minute.
The #1 primary needs to snake down towards the block more... plain and simple. Josh @ KY speed did a BIG set of headers for smkn95 on here, they were either 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 and he routed them so the headers had plenty of room around the steering shaft (wrapped them tighter to the block).
I don't know why this hasn't been fixed yet, the 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch headers I had from kooks barely cleared the stock steering shaft, with an aftermarket rack and k member there was no way.
I don't think there's a whole bunch of people that are using any stock suspension parts, and actually need a 2 inch header, that being said, why the header wasn't built and test fit on a car with an aftermarket rack and k member I can't even start to guess.
The #1 primary needs to snake down towards the block more... plain and simple. Josh @ KY speed did a BIG set of headers for smkn95 on here, they were either 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 and he routed them so the headers had plenty of room around the steering shaft (wrapped them tighter to the block).
I don't know why this hasn't been fixed yet, the 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch headers I had from kooks barely cleared the stock steering shaft, with an aftermarket rack and k member there was no way.
I don't think there's a whole bunch of people that are using any stock suspension parts, and actually need a 2 inch header, that being said, why the header wasn't built and test fit on a car with an aftermarket rack and k member I can't even start to guess.
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It will work just fine if you just extend the shaft down some. Here is the best picture I could find of my nitrous car showing the steering shaft. I had a BMR K-member at first and now a RaceCraft and it worked fine with both of those and the 2" Kooks.
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The 2 inch it's almost impossible to extend the steering shaft that much, the U joints in the steering shaft will be at the point of binding up. Only way you can get away without modifying the header is if you offset the rack, and if I had a choice between modifying the header and shifting the rack over, I'd modify the header in a minute.
You guys used a different U joint then the ones I have, that's how you got away with that. Makes sense now, the flaming river ones I had to work with wouldn't allow for that much angle without feeling like it was going into a mechanical bind.
Header primary on #1 still should be moved in on those headers though, it's not like the extra bend is going to kill them.
Header primary on #1 still should be moved in on those headers though, it's not like the extra bend is going to kill them.
You guys used a different U joint then the ones I have, that's how you got away with that. Makes sense now, the flaming river ones I had to work with wouldn't allow for that much angle without feeling like it was going into a mechanical bind.
Header primary on #1 still should be moved in on those headers though, it's not like the extra bend is going to kill them.
Header primary on #1 still should be moved in on those headers though, it's not like the extra bend is going to kill them.
You would think that would be all it would take to make it happen.
Every guy buying a set for a race car that's going to have a manual rack, would buy that brand/model header, no question.
But yet it hasn't happened. If someone were to offer a service, ship me your drivers side header and I will cut out the portion of the #1 primary that doesn't clear and make it swing inwards and back out, for a reasonable fee, that guy would probably make even more money. Makes me want to buy a tig welder and go buy a bunch of 1 3/4, 1 7/8 and 2 inch 90 and 45 degree prebent tubing, and a good band saw.
Every guy buying a set for a race car that's going to have a manual rack, would buy that brand/model header, no question.
But yet it hasn't happened. If someone were to offer a service, ship me your drivers side header and I will cut out the portion of the #1 primary that doesn't clear and make it swing inwards and back out, for a reasonable fee, that guy would probably make even more money. Makes me want to buy a tig welder and go buy a bunch of 1 3/4, 1 7/8 and 2 inch 90 and 45 degree prebent tubing, and a good band saw.
I don't know. I do know what needs to be done to fix the problem, but I stopped worrying about it the day I decided to put a big block in the car... I already know the headers I need have to be built.
The #1 primary needs to snake down towards the block more... plain and simple. Josh @ KY-Turbo did a BIG set of headers for smkn95 on here, they were either 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 and he routed them so the headers had plenty of room around the steering shaft (wrapped them tighter to the block).
They were 2 1/4" primaries. Spark plug access is as good or better than manifolds. Ground clearance is as good or better than the 2" Kooks he had. Steering shaft clearance in his case is as good or better than the headers he had.
Josh sorry about that, at least I got your name right! I'm terrible with that stuff.
The headers you built (way the #1 was routed compared to the standard copy of the grotyohan design that pretty much every other header was based off of) were done in a way that will create more clearance hands down.
Why noone else ever did them that way, well I gave up trying to figure it out.
The headers you built (way the #1 was routed compared to the standard copy of the grotyohan design that pretty much every other header was based off of) were done in a way that will create more clearance hands down.
Why noone else ever did them that way, well I gave up trying to figure it out.
