New suspension/rear setup, need advice on launch and tires
02-17-2012, 06:47 AM
#1
New suspension/rear setup, need advice on launch and tires Last year I was running a stock 10 bolt with 3.42s, stock torque arm, with double adjustable Spohn LCAs and PHB. No SFCs. WS6 front springs, no sway bar, Bilsein HD shocks. Race weight 3175, M6 trans, stock clutch with 10k on it. Was using 26x10.5 ET streets on salad shooters at 20psi and being easy on the launch for fear of the 10 bolt, could manage 1.85 60's on my way to 12.5-12.6 at 110-111.
This year I am running a 9" with 4.10s, spool, BMR spherical rod ends LCAs, BMR torque arm with UMI torque arm relocation mount. Chromoly 3.5" driveshaft. Same springs and shocks. I have a set of MT ET street radials 275/60/15s on summit wheels and still have the ET streets on salad shooters. Doing a search it seems M6 cars do better on bias ply, but having a stock clutch and being pretty light I was hoping it would slip enough on launch to give me the cushion to not spin the radial. Race weight will be the close to 3000 lbs as Im adding a fiberglass pin on hood, taking off the catback, rear crash supports, and some other little things.
1. On either tire will I be able to just sidestep the clutch from 5000 rpm? I need to sell 1 set of tires, which would be best to sell? Neither tire will get driven on the street, and I use sumikomo radials on the front on salad shooters.
2. Any guesses on what I will be able to gain from this years setup NA? Hoping for 1.5 60' with 12.2s.
3. Where should I start with the torque arm mount? I was thinking highest holes to try to lift the front more.
4. When I use the 100 shot, would that change the choice for which tires to use?
This year I am running a 9" with 4.10s, spool, BMR spherical rod ends LCAs, BMR torque arm with UMI torque arm relocation mount. Chromoly 3.5" driveshaft. Same springs and shocks. I have a set of MT ET street radials 275/60/15s on summit wheels and still have the ET streets on salad shooters. Doing a search it seems M6 cars do better on bias ply, but having a stock clutch and being pretty light I was hoping it would slip enough on launch to give me the cushion to not spin the radial. Race weight will be the close to 3000 lbs as Im adding a fiberglass pin on hood, taking off the catback, rear crash supports, and some other little things.
1. On either tire will I be able to just sidestep the clutch from 5000 rpm? I need to sell 1 set of tires, which would be best to sell? Neither tire will get driven on the street, and I use sumikomo radials on the front on salad shooters.
2. Any guesses on what I will be able to gain from this years setup NA? Hoping for 1.5 60' with 12.2s.
3. Where should I start with the torque arm mount? I was thinking highest holes to try to lift the front more.
4. When I use the 100 shot, would that change the choice for which tires to use?
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 02-17-2012 at 09:48 AM.
02-17-2012, 08:26 PM
#4
Your not going to side step anything with radials on a clutch car. It's going to either dead hook and bog, or bog and break parts or just break parts. Maybe not the first time, and maybe your car doesn't have enough power to break most of the stuff you have, but without some give in the driveline it's inevitable.
That's where a stiff sidewall slick comes in. Sell those ET Street radials for a MT 28x10.50 stiff wall slick. It will be the best thing you have done to help your car hook, get the 1.50 60's you want, and do it consistently.
It might happen once with the radials, although I don't see that happening without a decent single adjustable shock, it can happen without the adjustables on the slick with a 5500rpm clutch dump.
I'll let some guys that run the 28x10.50 stiff sidewall MT chime in more, because I've never run a slick or a M6 at the strip. I always have had automatics.
That's where a stiff sidewall slick comes in. Sell those ET Street radials for a MT 28x10.50 stiff wall slick. It will be the best thing you have done to help your car hook, get the 1.50 60's you want, and do it consistently.
It might happen once with the radials, although I don't see that happening without a decent single adjustable shock, it can happen without the adjustables on the slick with a 5500rpm clutch dump.
I'll let some guys that run the 28x10.50 stiff sidewall MT chime in more, because I've never run a slick or a M6 at the strip. I always have had automatics.
02-20-2012, 08:23 AM
#5
What about the 26x10.5 ET street bias ply I already have on salad shooters? I've never ran with sticky radials or with a rear I felt confident to launch hard. Would I better off sticking with the bias ply and a sidestep of the clutch or the radials and an aggressive burn of the clutch?
02-22-2012, 04:31 PM
#6
What about the 26x10.5 ET street bias ply I already have on salad shooters? I've never ran with sticky radials or with a rear I felt confident to launch hard. Would I better off sticking with the bias ply and a sidestep of the clutch or the radials and an aggressive burn of the clutch?
Bias Ply and a sidestep.
