AFCO settings
03-08-2012, 02:09 PM
#2
Not sure on a M6 car, and not sure with a slick either they need different shock settings than a radial.
I would start in the middle with both rebound and compression.
If it spins loosen the rebound until it doesn't spin. If it wheel hops or chatters/shakes the tires you need to tighten the compression and up the air pressure.
What front shocks do you have?
If they are DA in the front you want the compression stiff enough to where it doesn't bottom out coming down from a wheelie and not so stiff to where it bounces off the tire and making the tire take the force of the compression.
The rebound setting for the front needs to be loose enough to transfer the weight to the rear tires and keep them planted, and with an M6 you don't want the front end to rise and drop, rise and drop a lot which it's going to want to do anyways since your shifting gears manually. That being said I would think a looser rebound setting would be ideal to allow that to happen and a stiff compression setting so the front doesn't fall too fast unloading the rear tires.
If you bought the shocks from say Madman, or Steve Berger (burkhart) or MWC ask them for the baseline settings they recommend for your set-up.
For my set-up (see signature) Steve Burger said 16-18 off full loose for rebound and 10-12 off full loose for compression(puts you in the middle on both settings) and the same for the front.
He told me if it stands on the bumper, tighten the rebound and compression until it starts to slow down or spins, then back it back off till it hooks.
Your going to have to play with it, a lot to get it perfect.
I thought I had mine perfect last season and got a 1.29 60' and 4.05 330' on my 6.38 pass. I decided to try some different settings and I'm back to 1.34 60's and 6.49's so I have to do more testing to get it where I want it. You will have to do the same.
Good luck.
I would start in the middle with both rebound and compression.
If it spins loosen the rebound until it doesn't spin. If it wheel hops or chatters/shakes the tires you need to tighten the compression and up the air pressure.
What front shocks do you have?
If they are DA in the front you want the compression stiff enough to where it doesn't bottom out coming down from a wheelie and not so stiff to where it bounces off the tire and making the tire take the force of the compression.
The rebound setting for the front needs to be loose enough to transfer the weight to the rear tires and keep them planted, and with an M6 you don't want the front end to rise and drop, rise and drop a lot which it's going to want to do anyways since your shifting gears manually. That being said I would think a looser rebound setting would be ideal to allow that to happen and a stiff compression setting so the front doesn't fall too fast unloading the rear tires.
If you bought the shocks from say Madman, or Steve Berger (burkhart) or MWC ask them for the baseline settings they recommend for your set-up.
For my set-up (see signature) Steve Burger said 16-18 off full loose for rebound and 10-12 off full loose for compression(puts you in the middle on both settings) and the same for the front.
He told me if it stands on the bumper, tighten the rebound and compression until it starts to slow down or spins, then back it back off till it hooks.
Your going to have to play with it, a lot to get it perfect.
I thought I had mine perfect last season and got a 1.29 60' and 4.05 330' on my 6.38 pass. I decided to try some different settings and I'm back to 1.34 60's and 6.49's so I have to do more testing to get it where I want it. You will have to do the same.
Good luck.
03-08-2012, 09:14 PM
#5
Then talk to Steve.
He is who I got my baseline's from.
You will love these shocks. I wouldn't trade them for anything. One most single important piece of tuning hardware you can have.
Makes ALL the difference in getting down a sub par track, and really laying down a record number on a good track.
He is who I got my baseline's from.
You will love these shocks. I wouldn't trade them for anything. One most single important piece of tuning hardware you can have.
Makes ALL the difference in getting down a sub par track, and really laying down a record number on a good track.
