I'm spinning out of the hole with 1.8 60 foot times to a 11.220@123.I just ordered a Spohn Rear Anti Sway Drag Bar and would like opinions if Lower Control Arm relocation brackets are also necessary to help hook up? BTW, my car is not lowered

Below are my suspension mods to date:

SpohnAdjustable Tubular Polyurethane Ended Trailing (Lower Control) Arms
Spohn Adjustable Tubular Polyurethane EndedPanhard Bar
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Transmissionand Torque Arm mounts
Prothane Motion Control Polyurethane Motormounts and bushings
Competition Engineering 3-way adjustable dragshocks (rear),
BMR adjustable Torque Arm
Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subframeconnectors

 

Tires?

 

+1 on what tires, that car should be pulling 1.4-5's with ease.

 

IMO Adjustable shocks are more important at your power level than a drag bar even a stock style drag bar like the spohn. Not that it won't help, but if you weren't having a ton of chassis twist off the line then that wasn't money best spent IMO again. Most of the time a car at your weight and power just doesn't have the torque required to twist up the chassis to where that drag bar will actually significantly reduce the short times, where a set of even single adjustable shocks will be like night and day between getting down the track everytime with the most power out the hole you can throw at the car and using the suspension to adjust the 60' and not the power output or the launch rpm of the car.

I don't mean the 3 way one's either like you have not hating just trying to help.

What are the set on now?

 

Hes prob on a 17 or 18in radial..and a stick car.. 15in wheels, 28in Bias Ply and Side Step that bitch..shell go 10s

 

This^^^^

 

Call Madman, he will get you hooked

 

"Rock out with your **** out.... Rooster that is." -Dee Snyder



The clutch assembly needed to run on a Drag Radial or any radial requires something more then most will never deal with and the cost factor is out of sight and thats on a drag only set up.

 

That call is not needed yet. He's not making the power to make that call.

His problems can be solved here with a tire change and suspension tweaks.

I have gotten cars like yours to hook on the street with no suspension mods. Madman is in the business to make money and there is nothing wrong with that. He is the guy I would go to when I am trying to make a car put an extreme amount of power to the ground and I don't mean 500-600hp I'm talking 800+

 

So why don't you give him some advise, since your so good

 

Thank you all for your input. The car was running on street tires with MT 275/40/17 Drag Radials. I was foot braking at around 2700-2800 at launch

As for the transmission it's a Rossler 4L65E Terminator-3 with Yank 3200 Lock Up Stall Converter. I decided to go with the 3200 so when I go to the bottle it won't flash to high coming out of the hole and reduce top end slipage.

To answer any other build questions the compete build is below:

2000 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air WS6

POWER PLANT:

Custom Lingenfelter 7.0 L (427 cubic inch) LS6
Darton modular sleeve assemblies
ARP 8740 premium grade head studs
Lingenfelter CNC ported and polished 243 casting LS6 cylinder heads
2.100” Stainless steel intake valves
1.57" Stainless steel exhaust valves
Three angle valve job, correct setting of spring tensions
Comp Cams valve springs and titanium retainers, 10 degree locks and valve stem seals
Custom designed G-11 LPE hydraulic roller camshaft
215/231 Duration - 631 Lift intake - 644 Exhaust - 118 Centerline
Custom JE forged aluminum pistons
Custom Callies 4340 forged steel crankshaft - 4.00" stroke
Manley fully machined 4340 forged steel connecting rods - 6.125" long
Comp Cams Chromemoly 5/16 7.400 Pushrods
Computer balanced rotating assembly
Hi Volume oil pump
Fluidyne underdrive pulley w/ Goodyear Belt
SFI Rated Fluid Dampener
50 lb high flow fuel injectors
NGK TR55 Iridium IX Spark Plugs
Magnecor 8.5mm performance wires
Heat Resistant Wire Socks
Lingenfelter testing and tuning
LS1 Edit and AutoTap Software

INTAKE & COOLING SYSYEM:

FAST Technology LSX 90 MM intake manifold
90 MM throttle body
Low restriction Air Whisper Lid and K&N air filter
Be Cool Aluminum Big Block Crossflow radiator with transmission cooler
Unrestricted Ram Air mod
EGR modification
160 degree thermostat
Throttle body by-pass
SLP Manual Fan Switch

EXHAUST SYSYEM:

KOOKS Long Tube Race Stepped Headers (1 3/4 to 1 7/8 to 3 inch outlet)
KOOKS High Flow Catalytic Converters
Corsa stainless steel 3 inch cat-back exhaust system

TRANSMISSION:

Rossler Performance Terminator 3 - Heavy Duty Transmission with
4L65 hardened shaft Modified Lube Circuit, Modified pump to HP specs. Installed high RPM pump slide spring, Modified input drum (prevents input drum breakage at spline area), Installed HP 3-4 9/clutch pack, Installed Ross/lock™ ¾ clutch kit (20% more surface area than normal HP 9 clutch kits), HP reinforced mounting lugs 2nd gear, Band 18% (more holding power than normal HP type bands), Modified bearing kit-ring gear support hub (eliminates brass washer wear), Installed Heavy Duty sun gear shell (prevents breakage at spline), Reprogrammed valve body Ross/Lock ™, Installed Corvette type 2nd gear Servo kit, 4th gear billet servo kit, 2nd Gen. Sprag kit, 13 vain pump rotor, and Turbulator ™ steels where applicable
Yank Super Sport 3200 Stall Converter
245mm, Stall speed 3200 Posi Lock-Up Clutch w/Kevlar Linings, lightweight billet cover
TCI - Dual bolt pattern, 168 tooth (1500 HP) SFI rated Flex plate
Hughes Performance cast aluminum deep transmission pan

DRIVE TRAIN:

Series 3 Moser 12 Bolt Rear with girdle and 33 spline axils
Eaton limited slip posi
Richmond 3.73 gears
Denny’s Nitrous Ready Drive Shaft w/1350 series transmission slip yoke and solid body U-joints
BMR Drive Shaft Safety Loop

SUSPENSION:

Spohn Adjustable Tubular Polyurethane Ended Trailing (Lower Control) Arms
Spohn Adjustable Tubular Polyurethane Ended Panhard Bar
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Transmission and Torque Arm mounts
Prothane Motion Control Polyurethane Motor mounts and bushings
Competition Engineering 3-way adjustable drag shocks (rear),
BMR adjustable Torque Arm
Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subframe connectors

BRAKE SYSTEM, TIRES & RIMS:

Front and Rear PowerSlot Rotors
Front and Rear Hawk Performance Brake Pads
Front & Rear Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Hurst Line Lock
Street Tires – Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials 275/40/17

 

Really? That was your answer to the OP's question?

OP, the tire you have is more then capable of cutting better 60fts the a 1.8x so something with the car's suspension is definitely not working. I agree with the shocks being a good suggestion and yes by all means so relo brackets may do wonders for you.

 

I will, since you can't.

OP, since your torque arm adjustable, you need to check your pinion angle for starters. It doesn't have much bearing on hooking but its something I like to check first since it will give you an indication if something is out of whack. -2 is where it needs to be. I have played with that number depending on how the suspension is mounted (rubber vs poly vs solid).


The second thing, I need to know the settings of your shocks. The more settings you have the more complicated and sensitive it is to changes. In the rear you don't need all those adjustments. The cheap *** Strange adj shocks work good in the rear. Adjustability comes in play more on the front suspension for transfer and rebound.

Also, I would like to see a vid of the car launching at the track. If you can get that for us it would be a big help in seeing how your car is reacting.

Hey, csj2ta its spelled "advice". So now, I gave both of you advice.

Just to show you how I hook on the street. We are the car on the right. Fast forward to 2:20. No relocation brackets, no adj. torque arm. 26" hoosier slick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhsN7t8cbb4

 

Pinion angle is set at -2. Adjustable rear shocks are set at 30/70

 

Hey I can do that!!!

Mine isn't on the street though

Compression was too loose in the front on that run and tire pressure wasn't high enough so it came down kinda hard. Thank god for SYA bars.

http://youtu.be/5zl4kmL-NRk

 

Need a vid Bill. I need to see how you drive plus I need to see how the car is reacting.

 

Hey I can do that!!!

Mine isn't on the street though

^^^ Damn!^^^^ That's how your supposed to leave!!!! That was beautiful Fbodyjunkie06.... wow...

 

id have to say adjustable front shocks are needed, a video will help. but w/out any adjustment up front to allow the car to plant the rear tires, those comp eng rear 30/70's are gonna do the trick. i kno from experience. relocation brackets in the the bottom hole. and as 87silverbullet said - a video will give everyone responding to this thread an idea of how its leaving a lot better than description.