deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

the car is the 00' in my sig, late last fall it ran a best of 11.13@121 with a 1.59 60' but was spinning a little. only got to make 5 passes before we got snowed out for the winter. It has QA1 single adj shocks and springs up front and strange single adjustables in the back. I was getting the car ready last night and noticed the fronts were at position 8(as in closer to stiff) and the rears were 3 or 4 from all the way stiff.

I backed the fronts to position 2 and definitely noticed the front end rise on the street a lot more.

My questions is what does the car do if the fronts are to soft? and how does the rear soft/stiffness affect the way the car launches?

I footbraked the car/Hoosier DR's/built 4L60E trans

Sorry if it's hard to read i was in a hurry but appreciate any help

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Good post you gave the right info.

If the front is too soft once the weight transfers and the car begins to move the front end can drop due to the soft setting on the single adjustables and unload the rear suspension causing it to spin.

If you noticed it spinning on setting 8 back it off to 5 or 6 an see what it does. Going from 8 to 2 is too big of a jump, but big enough to really notice like you did. On 8 it might not of been transferring enough weight.

If the rears were at 3-4 from stiff and it just spun a tad I'd leave them alone or loosen one click and change the front to 5 or 6.

The tighter rear setting on a good track will be faster as it helps get the car to go fowards initially and not up then foward. If it instantly spins off the launch on the tighter setting loosening the rear will help plant the tire into the ground aiding traction on a marginal track.

The front setting since you only have singles is all about front end rise and weight transfer. If they were doubles on the front you could also control how fast the front end comes back down which is the compression setting.

You have a 10.80 in it the way it sits for sure.

Take the fronts from setting 2 that you have them at now to setting 6 this will tighten them and take the rears from 3-4 from stiff to 5 from stiff this will loosen them.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the advice, that's what i was looking for. I'll be sure to try a few different settings......I'd love to see a 10 sec pass, the DRs are looking a little old so i'm sure that's hurting a little

oh I forgot to mention it has a MWC rear drag bar

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

If that is how your car launches in your avatar picture the front looks like it has little extension(rebound) which means the shock setting is tight which you mentioned it being 2 from full stiff. If you got a little more extension on the front suspension it will transfer more weight to the rear tires aiding traction.

Too much will probably be faster than spinning, but it won't be the fastest you could go by optimizing it. The way you have it now it would probably hook on a terrible track, but you'd be wasting a lot of foward momentum I'd be willing to bet with that loose of a setting if setting 8 got you a 1.59 barely spinning. Try 6 at first and then 5 and see what is faster. If 5 is faster try 4 if it slows down on any part of the track take it back to 5. Then mess with the rear a little bit in the same fashion.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

here's a few better pics, the run by myself was a 1.61 60' and the other was a little slower, again thanks for your time and help

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Ok yea from that picture I can tell that it is transferring weight.

The pic in your avatar makes it look like the shadow of the tire is the fenderwell.

What settings were that picture taken on?

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

the settings in the pictures are the ones i listed at the top

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

I took your advice on the settings and ended up with a best of 10.97@122.4mph with a 1.49 60'......even had the tires come off the pavement a little. Didn't get many passes in since everyone kept breaking and putting oil on the track.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Good job!!!

Now keep it up!

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

I'm still making some small changes now but I got the car hooking and running consistent. Friday night I got a 10.88@123.4 with a 1.476 60'........It was hooking hard all night and running 10.93's then at dusk it ran a 10.90 and once it was dark it pull out the 10.88
Next time I want to work on the front shocks, They're softer than I'd like but I wanted to keep my focus on finding the sweet spot on the rears first. I didn't want to make more than one change at a time.
Its gonna be a little until I get back to the track, it's time to get a 6-point in the car

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

That's awesome I'm glad I could help. Tighten them up one click at a time and see what happens. If it spins back it off again one click. That's all you should ever have to do now!

I told you it had a 10.80 in it. Your mph told the tale.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

Next up is a bigger/better stall and something taller than a 25.6" drag radial......I'd wouldn't mind knowing some of the basic specs on your stall, if not that's fine too but your 60' times look very nice.......pm me if you like, and thanks again

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

No problem. The stall combo in this car is a 9" Circle D. When first bought by the previous owner it would only go 4000 on the footbrake and flash 4500ish on launch to get 60's right where you are now.

He sent it off to be re-stalled and now it will go 5000 on the footbrake and flash 5900-6000 on the launch which is right dead smack in the middle of where it made peak torque.

The 60's came down to the low 1.40's and eeked out a 1.3x 60' every now and then. That was on single adjustable strange shocks. Switched to Afco DA's and the mid 1.30 60's came. It didn't go 1.29-1.32 consistently till I got it and tweaked on it some more and fine tuned it.

I just sent it out actually, but I sent it to FTI as Greg has done my converters in the past and I have always been more than happy with his work, prices, suggestions and overall willingness to make sure he does everything he can for me. It should now stall to 4500 on motor on the transbrake(just installed while transmission is out) with no two step hooked up and flash to 5700-5900rpm right where the old N/A converter set-up flashed too.

Oh it also has a shift extension of about 700-750rpm which seems to keep my little 346 right in it's power band on motor. It will probably end up closer to 900-950rpm on nitrous because the motor will be accelerating faster and generating more torque.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

I can't get mine to stall more than 3100-3200 before it pushes through the brakes. Im not sure what it flashes up to though, kinda hard to watch while I launch. My current times are launching at about 2500 since I've pushed through the beams at 3000......I've been planning to talk to Greg as I've heard nothing but awesome things about him and see if he can either restall my 4k Yank or maybe just get one built and sell the Yank.

Are you running DA Front and Rears? and I guessing your not running a 4L60E anymore since your getting a brake put in it?

xDIRTYx

good info in here!

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

If you can data log one of your runs, you can compare your rpm to when you see 1mph on the data logs and that will tell you where your converter is flashing. In a perfect world your converter should flash to 100-300rpm before where your car makes peak torque. When a car is daily driven though or driven a lot, this has to be negotiated to make it drive nice.

IMO you can still get the converter to flash to peak torque and drive nice on the street if you have a lock up converter, and even more so if you have an overdrive lock up converter. As soon as you reach 40-45mph lock that converter and it doesn't matter the size of the stall and it will cruise like a factory stall.

The transmission I have now is a TH400 and it was equipped with a TCI full manual reverse valve body before and will have a TCI full manual reverse valve body with pro brake now along with the nitrous converter.

Greg is the man to call IMO. He gives unlimited free re-stalls within the first year of ownership of the converter if you buy it from him, and 150 bucks for any other brand of converter or after the one year period. He doesn't try and charge 300 bucks and tell you it needs to be rebuilt each time it is re-stalled. He will only tell you if it needs re-built or something replaced if it needs it. Things like that just make sense ya know? Call him he will get that converter straightened out for 150 bucks plus shipping which mine cost 20 bucks to ship there.

I run DA Afco coil-overs front and rear.