8.2 second 1/8th with 2.73 gears?!
#24
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Can't argue with results.
You can sit here all day and tell me why it isn't suppose to be the proper choice and how an 8" is better, and I can sit on my results.
Not trying to argue, but I got that feeling from your post. If you want to nit pick though, the converter was in the car when I bought it.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 04-24-2012 at 09:10 PM.
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ok so you guys are saying my convertor stall is too small.so i think i will go with a yank 4000 instead of this revmax.im saving for the 3.73s. cause i still want to be able to street it.there is a 10 bolt on CL right now with 4.10s in it for $400.would that be a better match for my cam?i called Lunati and they said my car would be faster with a bigger stall. im going back this sunday with my buddies 28 inch full slicks on it. i am hoping for 1.8 or 1.9 60 foots.i will post when i race.my fastest trap so far is 87.7.thanks for all the input.so lets recap:
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?
#28
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It also had 4.30 gears, and a single plane.
I know he is mostly right and that an all out 100% max effort lightweight n/a car would benefit more from the 8".
It worked and worked pretty well, but no it wasn't 100% optimal. It worked out though because it is perfect for what I plan to do now and is far from the same converter it's had just about everything changed.
I almost thought about keeping it because it worked so well on motor and just buy a new nice custom nitrous stall, but I decided to save the money.
Sorry op and to who that guy Firehawk thinks I took the wrong way. I would look into a restall and a change of gears. Sorry for the hijack.
#29
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ok so you guys are saying my convertor stall is too small.so i think i will go with a yank 4000 instead of this revmax.im saving for the 3.73s. cause i still want to be able to street it.there is a 10 bolt on CL right now with 4.10s in it for $400.would that be a better match for my cam?i called Lunati and they said my car would be faster with a bigger stall. im going back this sunday with my buddies 28 inch full slicks on it. i am hoping for 1.8 or 1.9 60 foots.i will post when i race.my fastest trap so far is 87.7.thanks for all the input.so lets recap:
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?
If you leave more air in then on average like 16-18, a good burn out and stall the crap out of it, you should do well. BUT you may also hook so well, the car now BOGS which is even work. Adding 2" in O/D will lower your gearing even more. I personally think a good set of DR on a auto car would be more than fine.
When it comes to the 10 bolt basically you more often then not are better off buying used as to build one up or rebuild is a good chunk towards a 9"/12 bolt.
You would need a new posi if the gearing is I think anything above 3.42 in a 2 series, but I would have to check, what your looking at is def a 3 series which like you see is $$$.
#30
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ok so you guys are saying my convertor stall is too small.so i think i will go with a yank 4000 instead of this revmax.im saving for the 3.73s. cause i still want to be able to street it.there is a 10 bolt on CL right now with 4.10s in it for $400.would that be a better match for my cam?i called Lunati and they said my car would be faster with a bigger stall. im going back this sunday with my buddies 28 inch full slicks on it. i am hoping for 1.8 or 1.9 60 foots.i will post when i race.my fastest trap so far is 87.7.thanks for all the input.so lets recap:
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?
i need a bigger stall for my cam 4000k
i need gears at least 3.73
i need tires at least DR's
im saving for a gears btw.Texas drivertain performance isnt cheap they said i need a series 3 posi? $150 used new master bearing rebuild kit $150 and gears $150(CL find) so thats already $450 and then $300 labor.AND THEN i think i will need to get it tuned.damn racing is expensive,but im hooked!
do i need a new posi?
This way you will be able to keep converter lock up. If you dont care about lock up you may want to consider an 8" converter.
If your converter is locking up during your pass it could be bringing your rpms down and taking your motor out of where it wants to be in the rpm range. These are all things to consider, especially in 1/8th mile perfromance.
You have to ask yourself
How much do you drive this car?
Is this my only means of transportation?
If it breaks can I fix it?
I can tell you wth pretty good certainty that if you threw in a th350, 430 gears and drag radials with a little weight reduction you'd be well into the low 7's easy,maybe even a high 6 with a GOOD CUSTOM converter AND tune, all depends on what you want to do with the car overall and how much scratch you have to keep the car on the track.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Naturally aspirated 1/8th mile racing set ups are the ABSOLUTE worst combinations for a street/strip set up.
Get some nitrous
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#32
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![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
You are kinda following his set up for street/strip performance.
#35
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![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
What u got the car down to, like 8, maybe 9lbs raceweight? U could put a train wheel behind that flexplate and it wouldn't make a difference.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I'll have my intake on your bench soon enough, not like you're gonna be racing or anything.
![Rotflmao](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/rotflmao.gif)
Oh btw, my I ordered my rear, should b here in a couple weeks, which means a month but still.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#37
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Hahahaha, I love your new toy-I'd like it even more in a car that actually ran. ![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
What u got the car down to, like 8, maybe 9lbs raceweight? U could put a train wheel behind that flexplate and it wouldn't make a difference.![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I'll have my intake on your bench soon enough, not like you're gonna be racing or anything.
Oh btw, my I ordered my rear, should b here in a couple weeks, which means a month but still.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
What u got the car down to, like 8, maybe 9lbs raceweight? U could put a train wheel behind that flexplate and it wouldn't make a difference.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I'll have my intake on your bench soon enough, not like you're gonna be racing or anything.
![Rotflmao](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/rotflmao.gif)
Oh btw, my I ordered my rear, should b here in a couple weeks, which means a month but still.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I can't wait to see that rear setup. Glad to hear it's in motion.
![Burnout](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_burnout.gif)
BTW... It's painted. I'll send you some pics
#39
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OK! went back to track with some MT streets 28 inch slicks and cut a 1.91 60' with a personal best of 8.13 in the 1/8th.im satisfied but not too impressed.i made three passes.first two were 2.0 60's and then finally saw 1.91.but my trap speed was only 86.3 instead of 87.7.only thing different was the m/t street slicks.not radials.they were my buddies.on 15" iroc wheels.i have come to determine that my convertor is not matching my cam too well.
QUESTION:can i run a 10 bolt 3.73 from a traction control car with my car which has no traction control?im not worried about my abs.(the light is always on anyway).thanks
QUESTION:can i run a 10 bolt 3.73 from a traction control car with my car which has no traction control?im not worried about my abs.(the light is always on anyway).thanks