What are you guys using to cap the heater hose nipples on the water pump
#22
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pasadena Texas
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is it street driven at all. I always thought you needed a t-stat to allow the coolent time to stay in the rad. This way it would cool off then go back into the engine. I know old school bracket cars run no t-stat or just an orfice plate. I stilll drive my car to and from the track, just wondering? I like the idea of plugging the heater outlets. I have mine looped looks like junk. I'm thinking some nice allen headed S.Stl plugs.
#23
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I still run the stock water pump, I deleted the HVAC system a while back, what I have been using to cap the nipples that fed the heater core, are these rubber caps from HELP! at autozone.. The only problem is they do not even last a year really, and start to dryrot and crack, and I dont trust them from there on. I can stock up on them, but was just wondering what else is out there? thanks Fellas..
#24
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: maize, kansas
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.lasvegastool.com/
check this tool out. It made quick work of pulling the nipples out of the water pump. Yes you could make this tool at home instead of buying it. Either way I got the job done and now have a useful tool for the future. The aluminum tapped like butter with a little lube.
check this tool out. It made quick work of pulling the nipples out of the water pump. Yes you could make this tool at home instead of buying it. Either way I got the job done and now have a useful tool for the future. The aluminum tapped like butter with a little lube.
#25
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.lasvegastool.com/
check this tool out. It made quick work of pulling the nipples out of the water pump. Yes you could make this tool at home instead of buying it. Either way I got the job done and now have a useful tool for the future. The aluminum tapped like butter with a little lube.
check this tool out. It made quick work of pulling the nipples out of the water pump. Yes you could make this tool at home instead of buying it. Either way I got the job done and now have a useful tool for the future. The aluminum tapped like butter with a little lube.
If motor was still out of the car I'd just drill a rod through both sides of the nipple. Attach 5# slide hammer to thru-rod. Give it a few solid whacks to pull them out and keep on trucking. Can't imagine doing that IN the engine bay though.
#26
On The Tree
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is it street driven at all. I always thought you needed a t-stat to allow the coolent time to stay in the rad. This way it would cool off then go back into the engine. I know old school bracket cars run no t-stat or just an orfice plate. I stilll drive my car to and from the track, just wondering? I like the idea of plugging the heater outlets. I have mine looped looks like junk. I'm thinking some nice allen headed S.Stl plugs.
A bypass hose should not be used ever on these cooling systems when deleting the heater and if you are going to run without a thermostat, you must block off the hole in the water pump that is behind it or a portion of your water flow will stay in a perpetual loop in the pumps bypass circuit.