nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Lower holes in the control arms hit harder

My car wouldn't hooks for **** after the heads/cam - I spent all summer chasing my tail trying to make it hook. Just trying to share what I've found.

Madman has some great posts on this subject - I thought I had them bookmarked but I guess not.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

There's plenty of times that getting the tires turning, especially on a stick car that you do not have the option (whether it be due to cost, availability, etc) of a slipper clutch, that spinning the tire a couple revolutions to prevent the motor from bogging is the only way you're going to get it to run right.

Nitrous car you want to run n/a and the converter is way too tight, may also benefit from a couple revolutions of spin as well, to help get the engine up in the power badn sooner. Again, a situation that you don't have the "right" converter... but it will allow a better result then you woudl get without the tire slip.

This, has been teh case on ALOT of cars I've worked on.. you don't always end up with the absoulte perfect parts combo for absolute best track performance.. a common problem with cars that are driven alot.

Track car I would say change the part all day long and not hesitste. Street car that you want to drive, I'm not telling someone to put a softloc type slipper clutch in, or telling someone to put a 5500 converter in the car so it will run at it's best if you want to drive it home. Just doesn't make sense.

If you're a serious bracket racer then a 10 pt change in the water grains in the air is probably enough to send you over the deep end. The guys that this will help, aren't at that level. I agree that slippage for what you're doing isn't going to help you at all. Most bracket cars I know of, that are serious are running 10 times the tire they need, simply becuase it takes that variable out 100%. For the average street car guy on here that's having a problem with his m6 car falling on it's face at the hit becuase it's getting too much traction, a little slippage on the track surface is going to serve him well.

Longbob

JL,

I have read your post multiple times and I am not exactly sure what you are trying to say. I am not trying to be obtuse, I swear.

I am a serious racer and my cars must be ready to win a heads-up round within the same race as they must be consistent enough to dial. This type of racing is about as difficult as it comes. I have to know as much as possible about tuning and engine design as I do setting up a car properly.

Since this section is "Drag Racing Tech" I am suggesting things to the original poster that will make it the best drag car as possible with what he has to work with. If this is supposed to be for a street, go to the store type of car then I will bow out of the conversation.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You're not wrong with what you're saying... I just know the situation the OP is dealing with and without putting an auto in the car, or a pro shifted manual with a slipper clutch the only way the engine won't get bogged out of it's powerband is to let it spin a touch. Predictable, probably not to the level you're looking for or I would need for my own junk either. But, it will result in better luck then if he dead hooks it and the engine gets pulled down to 1200 rpm or something like that. I hve 2 cars I have dealt with recently, that are in this exact situation. Car either dead hooks and bogs the motor, which results in abolulte garbage 60 foot and 330 times, and then runs the back 1/2 o.k., or it spins ALOT, 60 foot is junk and 330 is junk, then runs as it should... or the car will spin just a touch, 60 foot isn't bad, 330 is decent, and then it's better from there on out.

One car I have in mind is a 3700 lb heads cam car, m6 tranny, typical street type clutch to hold a decent level of power, no slipper clutch, etc. We get the car to just spin a touch and the 60 foot and rest of the run, is a GOOD bit better then if it dead hooks, or completely blows the tires off.

I know after I changed my car over for nitrous (converter, gear) it wouldn't 60 foot for crap, engine was lugged and it wouldn't get going until probably 100 feet out then it would go great.... if I aired the tires up enough to get it to spin just a touch, the car would 60 foot a little better and the rst of the run was alot better. Spray it liked to hook hard, but there was enough power to get the engine into the powerband instantly.


What are you racing for a class? Your needs sound similar to the 8.50 index that I'm building for now. Need a consistant car that has enough to run 7.90... as you're going to play on the top end, but it's not a douple breakout class so you need to know your car, know where it is speed wise, watch the other car, car has to stay together and remain consistant as well, since there's so many other things going on you can't have a car that changes a ton with weather.. 1/2 the races are at night, 1/2 are during the day so you really don't want something that's really finicky... etc. Need to have your stuff togeher if you want to win.

Longbob

One of the cars is the one in my signature. It is a 1998 LT1 Firebird that I race in Stock Eliminator. I am building a 2005 Sunfire for Super Stock that will be in GT/AA. The motor is completed. It is a LS76.

I will periodically drive a 1991 Olds Calais in GT/FA with an iron head LT1. And ever so often a 1968 Hemi Cuda in SS/AH.

All of the cars have to be consistent enough to dial and within a few minutes later have a heads-up then in just a few more minutes could be in a dial race again. Reading the weather can be humbling. I had crazy wind conditions at the Summer Nationals in Topeka a few weeks ago, but it all worked out in my favor.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Alright made the changes to the lca's. One hole up and lowered tq arm to lowest hole. set pinion at -1.2 and adjusted rear shocks to 6 comp and 4 ext. Will see what that gets us.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Then you're running the whole spectrum for the most part, but all race cars. Stuff I am suggesting would work for a car that's driven around alot... for what you're doing, and what I'm building for it does not apply. 2 different worlds.

The weather situations you're talking about we deal with as well, afternoon/night races, early morning qualifying then afternoon races, etc. One of the main reasons I am looking to go alcohol. Weather effects are greatly reduced.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Busa get video from the drivers side down on the car, and if you can get it in slow motion. This will let us see what the car is doing and help more.. see how it's hitting the tire and if it's holding the hit or unloading, etc. Alot better advise can be given off this, fwiw.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I was able to get the car back on the ground tonight and getting underneath the car with the lca's in the 2nd from top hole I am going downhill about 2.5 degrees from the rearend to the body. Everything I read says this is the opposite of what I want. Just wanted to get your thoughts with the new measurments. Also I can get -1.2 working anlge on the pinion. 0 on tailshaft and -1.2 on the rear. With the car on the ground with gauge zeroed to ground and the put on rear I get a positive .3 actual pinion angle. Should I try to get -1.2 in relation to the ground?