98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Wolfe sells it two separate ways. One is with the two rear mounting points to be on top of the wheel wells, the other is to have them mounted above the fuel tank. What are the pros/cons of each??

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

I have to kit that mounts to the wheel well, 1 of the pros is that I don't really see thedown tubes in the back when I look in my mirror. and I have full easy access to the rear package deck and the trunk. and in my opinion it looks better going to the wheel wells, but my car is street driven a ton so my opinion maybe different then the other guys who are race only.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

I may be wrong, but I believe the one mounted above the fuel tank requires fuel tank removal to attach properly while the other attaches to rear seat belt mounts. Visibility creates and issue with that one as well. Just modify the sail panels and go with the other.

95killerz

iTrader: (10)

To the wheel wells is nice an ticked out of the way, just remember you won't be able to put in mini tubs later on

Mighty Whitey

Generally the idea of putting them above the fuel tank, is to put the bars directly over top of the rear coil springs for some sort of extra chassis stiffening as you're applying power to go down the track.
But it's my understanding that If you're rear suspension is setup correctly, that you don't actually rely on the rear springs when applying power. Your suspension geometry should be dialed in such a manner that the car does not lift, or squat In the rear either, so there goes the theory of needing extra bracing over the cool spring.

Putting them over the coil springs would be putting them over the frame rails which would help stiffen the chassis more than putting them in the fender wells that aren't a direct structural part of the chassis itself.

When I do a 6pt, they will not be in the fender well.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Ive had both.

I had a bolt in wolfe thu the speaker holes. I liked that very much. Easy to install, didnt have to drop the gastank. Think I just took one wheel off, but you dont really have to take them off. Just drill some 3/8 holes and bolt them in. Then cut a notch in the speaker grill for the bars to pass. Its a little hard to put the plasitcs tho the speaker hole, if you forget you have to notch them I think. Its also easy to remove, I took the rollbar out 2 times with hand tool outside in about 45mins so thats nice. Also could fit more things in the car, the 28x10,5 slicks slide inside them easier then the over the seat bars.
then I got that style when I bought a weld in 4130 wolfe. I also removed the armrest metal, and the rear setabelt stiff. So the wheel wells were bear, and as I started to test fit the plates and bars going to the wheel wells. I didn't like how weak the spot was. Its just single layer sheet metal it flexs easy. Wolfe changed them to the over the seat bars for no change. I think they even paid for shipping both ways. (I had some other things repalced too) David wolfe is great.
I trimmed the rear bars a little so they were closer to the front of the flat over the tank. So I could get the 6x6 plate over the upper shock metal. That came out really well, There 3-4 layers of metal there in the front under the 6x6 plate and the tube on that is alot better then the wheel well. I dont have sub frame connectors, and I think wieh thr extra work I did there, and the main hoop plates, and getting some plug welds under the door bar plates helped alot for that too.


If you have a street car you drove alot, stock, or cheap suspension stuff. and just need a rollbar to pass tech, a few times are year at you local Test and tune. You run 11s and don't plan on going faster then 9.99, and going to put in yourself the thu the speaker holes are porbally better.
If you care more about the track, and have good dual adjustable shocks and spend time dialing the car in, making 100+ passes are year. Your going to be happier going over the back seat style.