Let's try this again: where to buy a roll bar
06-30-2012, 10:05 PM
#1
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Let's try this again: where to buy a roll bar Ok well my last thread was closed before my questions were answered... So not trying to step on toes but I'd like to get this question answered
MWC, spohn, there another one slipping my mind...
I'm looking for a cheap 6pt roll bar. Maybe even 4pt IF it is NHRA legal to make into a 6pt down the road
Where did you get yours and what's the price. The cheaper the better and pics please.
I prefer bolt in but weld in isn't completely out of the question
MWC, spohn, there another one slipping my mind...
I'm looking for a cheap 6pt roll bar. Maybe even 4pt IF it is NHRA legal to make into a 6pt down the road
Where did you get yours and what's the price. The cheaper the better and pics please.
I prefer bolt in but weld in isn't completely out of the question
07-01-2012, 07:54 AM
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4 point isn't nhra legal. Bolt in isn't nhra legal. Needs to be at least a 5 point - you need a driver door bar - that's good to 10.0et and 135mph. Then from 9.99et down to 8.50et, you'd need an 8 point cage.
You can get a Competition Engineering one from Summit for $200 + truck freight shipping.
Stickies:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...rness-etc.html
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive).
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).
10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive). Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
I found all this info by doing a couple minutes of searching.. It really is that simple
You can get a Competition Engineering one from Summit for $200 + truck freight shipping.
Stickies:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...rness-etc.html
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive).
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).
10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive). Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
I found all this info by doing a couple minutes of searching.. It really is that simple
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07-02-2012, 10:56 AM
#10
id say go with the MWC stuff. he just did my cage and subframes in my car. i will do a thread on it soon. bolt in IS leagal with a 5 or 6 point roll bar. and there are gusset plates that must go on the out side floor pan. and fixed bars arent bad to crawl over either.
