MFJ

iTrader: (4)

No in between. I'm shooting 100 shot. Car is a M6, DR's. When launching it laucnches then falls on it's face until the window switch kicks in and the n2o activates.

I started with the RPM switch at 3000 rpm, launched at 3500 rpm and spun through 1st with no bogging. 2.01 60 ft and I lifted 2 times in first and once in 2nd to get it to hook up.

I bumped the rpm switch up to 4000 rpm, Launched at 3000 rpm. Jumped off the line and bogged. (In video,far lane, not me that had the backfire).

So I lowered it back down to 3500 rpm, launched at 3200 rpm. Same thing. jumped, bogged.

Lowered it back down to 3200 rpm, launched at 3200 rpm. Jumped off the line, bogged.

No more time for cool down before the track closed. And I killed a pilot bearing on the last run.

You can actually see the n2o kick in in the video past the 60' mark. It's coming on at the right rpm that I set.


Any ideas?

Hector

Could this be the problem?

studderin

iTrader: (28)

try shock adjustments?

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

It's really starting to **** me off. Tired of having to play catchup every race. Got some comp engineering drag shocks on the way but if it hooks more won't it bog more?

I really want to keep it a M6, but now I don't know.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

your going to thouse cheap shocks on the rear only? so stock shocks?

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Stock full weight car.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

what shocks do you have on the car right now

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Stock Decarbons. I don't just want to throw a bunch of suspension parts on the car because I don't know which ones work well together. I know I need shocks front and rear. The torque arm needs to be changed too but there are so many options. I just want the car to do a better 60'. I'm making enough power to run 11.60's but not with a 2.0 60'. I'm trapping 119-120.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

There are 2 ways to do this. M6 cars and DR don't mix too well when you have stock suspension. So, you have to change up one or the other. The cheaper fix is to get a set of slicks. They have the sidewall that will give like slipping the clutch but you can dump the clutch because of them. You will need more rpm so the car won't bog.

Trying to hook on DR's is more expensive but can be done. You can change up the suspension with adjustable shocks in the rear and front. You would want to set the rears in the middle setting and tighten the rear until it doesn't hook any more then go back down. You can also try slipping the clutch some so you won't bog and get out of the hole easier.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Slipping this clutch is not that easy. Its either engaged or not. Would I still benefit from a shock change and removing the front swaybar with slicks?

2 Stroke Racer

iTrader: (11)

It takes alot of practice to get the clutch slip right. You can't just dump
The clutch. You need some adj shocks and it doesn't sound like you have the patience to get a DR to work. Get some bias ply tires. It takes alot of the right
Parts and you gotta learn how to launch a M6 car. You can always go the
Auto route, but I like driving my car.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

well that just the way its gona end up with the stock stuff. Not sure what your asking, theres nothing to change your gonna magically start cutting wheels up 1.4s. So your gona have to do somthing.

ya, it takes some time, practisng on the street helps, its even harder at the track, harder with a car next to you. There a lot better clutch out there then stocks, not just one with alot of holding power thats a on /off switch. anything is better then the stock shocks. if you want to keep running the DR you gona need some good duals front and rear, strange at the lest.

42273

iTrader: (3)

hey studderin, i have to give you some props after watching videos of your car . very impressive !

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

This Monster clutch holds well but like I said it's hard to slip. Especially with another car beside me. Could that be from the lightweight flywheel I have?

It's not that I haven't tried to slip it. It's a worse 60' when I did. But that was before the n2o . I am saving for a 9" as well.

If i could get enough momentum until my spray kicks in my 60' would come down.

I'm really trying to keep it a M6 . I like the shifting. 4.10's would get my rpms up quicker.

42273

iTrader: (3)

i know how you feel dude, im having the same issue with a s60, the only time i didnt bog was when i launched at about 2 as if i was leaving from a stop light and cut 2.0 60ft lol . sounds weak it would have one of my better runs

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

I know what you mean. From a roll it's game on. From a dig is what counts though.

I'm not thinking 1.40 60'. I'm a realist. A 1.70 would be awesome right now. .3 in the first 60' would bring my et way down.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Take the sway bar off and get you a set of slicks first and see how that works before throwing those shocks on. I like the Hoosier Quick time pro's because they come in a 27" tire. The 26" slicks look too small to me and the 28" slicks rub causing you to have to trim the back bumper piece a little. 27's are just right.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Would you recommend the 27x11.5? I would need some wheels but that's easy enough. Do they require tubes? Would the 1" taller tire be any difference in et? I'm running a 255/50-16 now. I have the stock 3.42 now.

Sorry for all the questions. Nobody else that i know has the M6. They're killing me off the line and et wise but I'm trapping way more than they are.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

No. Hoosier doesn't require tubes but you can use them if you want. I personally don't use them and have no issues. The 1" isn't going to make a noticeable difference.

They are always going to E.T. better than you because they are getting their 60 foot unlike you and because their 60 is better their mph is lower. You are taking longer to cover 1320ft compared to them is the reason why you mph is more. Watch what happens when you get that 60ft down.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Cool. If I get my 60' down I should be in the mid 11's.