Trans brake is it worth it?
For the OP, when you want to feel a real 60', use a Tbrake. That 1.88 60' you have going is like a turtle starting a race. 1.6 60' times are sluggish in comparison. With my stock LS1 on a 150 shot (424 rwhp/396 rwtq) i've gone 1.41 60' off the Tbrake.
What trans are you going with? Do it once... go TH400
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If you can get a trans brake, get one. However you can still cut decent 60' times without. My full weight auto h/c w/ 150 shot foot brakes 1.32 60'. Check out Jake's Performance if you're interesed in a trans brake. I'm sure he's still a sponsor here on tech and he makes only quality products.
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Verdad Gallardo Do you run NHRA or IHRA rules? In IHRA, a transbrake is allowed in no box classes.
For the OP, when you want to feel a real 60', use a Tbrake. That 1.88 60' you have going is like a turtle starting a race. 1.6 60' times are sluggish in comparison. With my stock LS1 on a 150 shot (424 rwhp/396 rwtq) i've gone 1.41 60' off the Tbrake.
What trans are you going with? Do it once... go TH400
For the OP, when you want to feel a real 60', use a Tbrake. That 1.88 60' you have going is like a turtle starting a race. 1.6 60' times are sluggish in comparison. With my stock LS1 on a 150 shot (424 rwhp/396 rwtq) i've gone 1.41 60' off the Tbrake.
What trans are you going with? Do it once... go TH400
I'm not running in any class, just having fun with a dedicated track car
T56 is already pulled and sold so now I'm looking at TH400's and convertors
Thank you
One more question - does a T brake hit the driveline hard like dumping the clutch on my M6 did = breakage all the time? I would think foot brake is a little softer as the driveline is already loaded up when you launch. Part of my auto swap is to stop chewing up parts. I'm also changing the posi to a spool that should help the rear end too.
One more question - does a T brake hit the driveline hard like dumping the clutch on my M6 did = breakage all the time? I would think foot brake is a little softer as the driveline is already loaded up when you launch. Part of my auto swap is to stop chewing up parts. I'm also changing the posi to a spool that should help the rear end too.
The transbrake will be easier on parts when compared to dumping the clutch on a manual trans. My 12-bolt with a spool held up to high 1.2's low 1.3's off of the transbrake and high 1.3's footbraking. I recommend giving Greg @ FTI a call, he's the one that built my converter/trans for my old NA LS1 and now he's doing another converter/trans to go behind my 440.
Thanks guys since its apart might as well get a trans with a brake. I bought a spool yesterday so its all coming together.
I have a line on a used 400 built by trans king in Galveston tx anyone heard of them?
I have a line on a used 400 built by trans king in Galveston tx anyone heard of them?
If you are buying a brake it is in the valve body. TCI makes a decent valve body with a t brake. It come in a forward shift pattern or a reverse which is pulling the lever back rather than forward. These unit are around $300.
I bought a brand new Coan Racing th400 with a reverse valve body and a brake good to about 900 hp I think. It was around $1100 with no converter. It lasted over 400 passes and maybe 500 street miles before the sprag let go. I got it repaired and it is taking hits like no bodies business lol.
I bought a brand new Coan Racing th400 with a reverse valve body and a brake good to about 900 hp I think. It was around $1100 with no converter. It lasted over 400 passes and maybe 500 street miles before the sprag let go. I got it repaired and it is taking hits like no bodies business lol.
The brake makes the driver so much more consistent that you can actually drive and focus on the light and let the car do the rest. It will cut a ton off your rt time once you get use to it.
It will also come out harder than ever with a good converter. Get something in the 4000-5000 range. It should be custom spec'd to your engine/gear entire setup. The converter need to be made for a LS1 so it has the correct snout length to fit in the back of the crank.
It will also come out harder than ever with a good converter. Get something in the 4000-5000 range. It should be custom spec'd to your engine/gear entire setup. The converter need to be made for a LS1 so it has the correct snout length to fit in the back of the crank.
The transbrake will be easier on parts when compared to dumping the clutch on a manual trans. My 12-bolt with a spool held up to high 1.2's low 1.3's off of the transbrake and high 1.3's footbraking. I recommend giving Greg @ FTI a call, he's the one that built my converter/trans for my old NA LS1 and now he's doing another converter/trans to go behind my 440.
OP, you running a 12 bolt?
I used to have a 9" but it was so big and clunky and heavy, it was one of the first designs back in the day
So I took it out and put the 12 bolt in it around 2008.I've heard so many things about FTI I decided they will be doing the convertor for sure. And if this used trans deal falls through they will probably do the trans for me too.