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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 06:24 AM
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Default Cage install questions

I bought a 10pt cage from s&w and I've got a few questions. They sent instructions with it, but I'm either not understanding or they left some info out. I tried searching as well to see what the order should be to get welds all the around all the bars.

The helpful thing I did find is using a hole saw to drop the bars down and then put the plate over it. So do you tack them and form them in place first, grind the welds and then cut the hole to drop them to weld them all up? Along with this is the headliner. I'd like to have it in for a full interior look, but I also don't want it to catch on fire. Any tips there?

Also I've looked at a ton of install pictures and was wondering does it matter where the bar contacts the plate? It seems like some of the certified cages had the plates welded in a easier spot and the bar contacts on far corner. I would think that you would want the bar in the center of the plate. Or is there a rule that specifies that it has to be x" from the edge of the plate?

Would someone be able to give a quick overview of the install process, ie when to weld the plates and the order of the bars installed?
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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It doesn't matter where the tube hits the plate as long as plate is fully welded. As for getting the weld all the way around, best bet is to do cage in 2 pieces. Are the a pillar bars continuous from main hoop to floor or did kit come with halo bar? I usually build main hoop section and rear section as one ( tack in the car then pull out weld them, reinstall ).then mock up front section, pull out of car, weld fully then the only welds you have to do in car are the ones attached to the floor,and where the a pillar bars hit the main hoop. Hard to explain over the net, but hope this helps a bit. If not, just bring it up to my shop and we can tackle it together. Haha. I'll give you the LS1TECH discount
Beaudacious
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Thanks man. Just out of curiosity, where are you located?
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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I'm in Ontario Canada. Probably be more of a hassle than good to bring it to my business. Lots of other really good fabricators ,probably right in your area
Beaudacious
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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You can always check locally for a good fabrication shop. I have my tuner doing mine at the moment since I dont know how to TIG weld.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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cheapest quote I got was 2500. That's with the interior out, no thanks. I'll do it myself. Worse case I have to regrind and reweld.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 06:42 PM
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PM me if your interested.I can beat that price big time. Just have to travel a bit. But don't worry, I can weld pretty good. Check out some of my posts in the fab section. Search Beaudacious in the search bar on this site.
Thanks
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
PM me if your interested.I can beat that price big time. Just have to travel a bit. But don't worry, I can weld pretty good. Check out some of my posts in the fab section. Search Beaudacious in the search bar on this site.
Thanks
I'm not going to travel for this, thanks though.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:50 PM
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Did you ever try that other shop? You could also call dynotuned performance out here in Va beach.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/G...egulations.pdf

Per nhra - "grinding of welds is prohibited"
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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He can grind out a weld and re weld it though. They just dont want you grinding to smooth the weld


also when we did mine we tacked everything in the car then broke it into 2 large pieces and completely weled them outside of the car. Then stuck them back in the car and welded them together and to the floor plates.

Also I had the headliner and all interior out and put it back in after the cage was done
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by manfred717
Did you ever try that other shop? You could also call dynotuned performance out here in Va beach.
I don't think I'll find it for what I'm willing to pay. So I'll just do it myself.

Originally Posted by dschmittie1
He can grind out a weld and re weld it though. They just dont want you grinding to smooth the weld


also when we did mine we tacked everything in the car then broke it into 2 large pieces and completely weled them outside of the car. Then stuck them back in the car and welded them together and to the floor plates.

Also I had the headliner and all interior out and put it back in after the cage was done
Which were the two sections that you welded together? Welding outside of the car would be cake. I can weld decent if I'm not origami'd and trying to push the pedal with my knee.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Now my Wolfe cage is alot different than the S&W kit but I did the main hoop with the seat bar and the other inner bars. Then the two A pillar bars with windshield bar and behind dash bar. then put in the car and welded those together with the
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dschmittie1
Now my Wolfe cage is alot different than the S&W kit but I did the main hoop with the seat bar and the other inner bars. Then the two A pillar bars with windshield bar and behind dash bar. then put in the car and welded those together with the
So did you tack those up to get them right and then bust the tach to weld them up? Then I'm assuming to get all the way around it you dropped the bars through the floor board?
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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yes but I did not drop any throught the floor boards. with the T tops and headliner out we had enough room to well around all the bars. A pillar bars to floor plates and door bars to A pillar bar where the worst. plus all of mine was tigged as my cage is CM
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dschmittie1
yes but I did not drop any throught the floor boards. with the T tops and headliner out we had enough room to well around all the bars. A pillar bars to floor plates and door bars to A pillar bar where the worst. plus all of mine was tigged as my cage is CM
Sounds good. I'm tigging mine as well since that's what I have to use.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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Ok, after getting frustrated in the garage I've got a few more questions. I intended on having the main hoop where it raises to the rear buckets. Having said that, the plate needs to be bent to match the contour of the floor. I tried heating it up with a propane torch and hitting it, but all that did was destroy the floor. Do you have to use an oxygen acetylene torch to get the 1/8" plate hot enough to meld it without destroying the floor?

Also, in the location that I chose and the more popular one, I don't see how it's possible to cut a hole there and drop the hoop down. The reason that I want it on the higher portion is because it's about 4" from the furthest spot on my seat.

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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Camarod
cheapest quote I got was 2500. That's with the interior out, no thanks. I'll do it myself. Worse case I have to regrind and reweld.
Well **** thats a rip off lol.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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When we did my cage my plated for the main hoop we cut into peices to fit the shape of the bent floor where it was getting placed. And welded it all in place. And I got my Chasis cert no problems
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 02:46 PM
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Ok, I got another question. So in all the pictures that I've seen it looks like the forward down bars are behind the lower dash mount that has the stud. Having said that, do you have to notch the metal up top to allow for the bar to be plumb/level?
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